Updated Top End Job Pricing?
#1
Advanced
Thread Starter
Updated Top End Job Pricing?
Hi All - Top end jobs have definitely been covered and even pricing but most of what I found was quite old. Any updates on what a top end job should cost these days? I'm having to do it because when changing out top side spark plugs found a head bolt with partial stud next to the spark plug. Pulled the fan/main blower last night and have extra oily build up around the base of 4 of 6 heads. She was running great before recent issues so hoping and guessing nothing too major should could up.
I got a price of $6-8k and that includes replacing all studs with updated studs... The car only has 90k miles so bottom end should be fine and basically the quote doubled at talk of a rebuild so really not wanting to head in that direction at this point. She does have the normal leaks so will definitely need to do some resealing at the same time.
As a side note, is there somewhere that could send the motor off to and have the work done? What I'm thinking is more along the lines of a machine shop that also does disassembly and re-assembly and they do this all day every day versus a local shop that may do a 964/993 every month or so. Side side note is I've seemingly found a pretty good guy that is a Porsche fanatic, he's a racing guy and his shop has an in-house machine shop so the confidence level is pretty high, just trying to be smart and at least know the options.
I got a price of $6-8k and that includes replacing all studs with updated studs... The car only has 90k miles so bottom end should be fine and basically the quote doubled at talk of a rebuild so really not wanting to head in that direction at this point. She does have the normal leaks so will definitely need to do some resealing at the same time.
As a side note, is there somewhere that could send the motor off to and have the work done? What I'm thinking is more along the lines of a machine shop that also does disassembly and re-assembly and they do this all day every day versus a local shop that may do a 964/993 every month or so. Side side note is I've seemingly found a pretty good guy that is a Porsche fanatic, he's a racing guy and his shop has an in-house machine shop so the confidence level is pretty high, just trying to be smart and at least know the options.
#3
If located on west coast, Steve Weiner is good, but if located in the Northeast you might want to call Mark at Exotech in Plaistow NH. He builds race cars, does all of his machining in house and has built a lot of 964 and 993 engines.
#4
Three Wheelin'
Price range doesn't sound far off.
Eurotech advanced automotive in Framingham Ma. Bill is the only guy who's worked on my car.
It's a quiet shop, but to give you an idea of the scope of his work, the last time I was in he was building a 964 tube chassis race car with gt2 bodywork.
Eurotech advanced automotive in Framingham Ma. Bill is the only guy who's worked on my car.
It's a quiet shop, but to give you an idea of the scope of his work, the last time I was in he was building a 964 tube chassis race car with gt2 bodywork.
#5
Banned
The best person - in my not so humble opinion is Mark Nadler in Plaistow, NH ((603) 382-3599 - Exotech). He's done my 993, 964, 930, and various 914-6, 911 heads through the years. He also stands behind his work -and does everything in house..
Give him a shout, and let him know John_D. sent you.. Oh wait a minute - don't do that - it might cost you...
Best always,
John D.
Give him a shout, and let him know John_D. sent you.. Oh wait a minute - don't do that - it might cost you...
Best always,
John D.
#6
Advanced
Thread Starter
Thanks and glad to see so many folks being recommended as usually just hear the horror stories!
Any 2nds or 3rds on that price being about right? Another curiosity is how much resealing related to oil leakage is done as just part of a top end job and if not much, what would recommend to seal whether leaking or not? I know an obvious answer is whatever may be leaking. What I'm kind of getting at is if these things are greatly exclusive of one another or if a lot of the resealing is accomplished as part of an top end job.
Any 2nds or 3rds on that price being about right? Another curiosity is how much resealing related to oil leakage is done as just part of a top end job and if not much, what would recommend to seal whether leaking or not? I know an obvious answer is whatever may be leaking. What I'm kind of getting at is if these things are greatly exclusive of one another or if a lot of the resealing is accomplished as part of an top end job.
#7
Race Car
The price is about right . When I did mine w Steve W six years ago- just the heads, machines and rebuilt w his valve guides, 993 valves, ti retainers and aesco racing springs was something like 3800. I'm approximating, so Steve if you are reading this and I am too low, I appologise. Then you factor in removing the motor, taking it apart, removing the heads, reassembly, and the inevitable "while you are in there" and your price starts to sound inexpensive.
The key w 964 motors, and really 911s in general, is that someone that really knows these cars should be the one to do the heads. So my engine builder did my disassembly and reassembly, but we sent the heads to the best I could find, and that was Steve. Nothing against the rest of the suggestions above. There are a bunch of guys around the country that are very good. Just make sure you find and use one of them. My vote for Steve is typically due to the fact that he was not only a great person for the job, but he was also a very good consultant during the entire process and took care to make sure I was taken care of and the entire job was right. And he has always been an invaluable resource here on rennlist as well.
The key w 964 motors, and really 911s in general, is that someone that really knows these cars should be the one to do the heads. So my engine builder did my disassembly and reassembly, but we sent the heads to the best I could find, and that was Steve. Nothing against the rest of the suggestions above. There are a bunch of guys around the country that are very good. Just make sure you find and use one of them. My vote for Steve is typically due to the fact that he was not only a great person for the job, but he was also a very good consultant during the entire process and took care to make sure I was taken care of and the entire job was right. And he has always been an invaluable resource here on rennlist as well.
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#8
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Like John D, Mark has done my 2.7 and 3.0 liter motors. He also did my best friends 993, 914-6, and beautiful 65 356SC Cab. He the only person I trust to work on my cars. I'll shoot him a heads up on this thread and maybe he'll chime in.
#9
Burning Brakes
mine was 18000 plus change. it leaked on their driveway when i pulled it out of the shop. they told me to f-off. 18000 CDN. when our dollar was worth 1.07 US.
now i know why they required a certified check. before they returned it to me.
thanks a lot, Jacobs of North Vancouver.
now i know why they required a certified check. before they returned it to me.
thanks a lot, Jacobs of North Vancouver.
#11
Dlee, As a rule I'd recommend people generally bite the bullet and do a complete reseal
since you've already got the cylinders off. Keep in mind that the case through bolts seal rings are 30 something years old and can start leaking anytime even if there not now. Splitting the case doesn't add a ton to the total cost and that way you're assured of a leak free engine.
If you like shoot me an email with any specific desires and I can quote you prices.
And has been pointed out I do all the work here which can give better flexibility if things change midstream.
Mark
since you've already got the cylinders off. Keep in mind that the case through bolts seal rings are 30 something years old and can start leaking anytime even if there not now. Splitting the case doesn't add a ton to the total cost and that way you're assured of a leak free engine.
If you like shoot me an email with any specific desires and I can quote you prices.
And has been pointed out I do all the work here which can give better flexibility if things change midstream.
Mark
#12
Burning Brakes
had my two cars done here in germany during the last three year. Both cars were just a little bit leaking. I did a full rebuild, just to have it done and have a proper refreshed car to use.
Convertible was 8k€ just for the egine, the blue car was ~10k€ for the engine, but with some modifications on it... Money was good spent, because both cars transformed absolutely with that.
Convertible had 100k miles when it was done, the blue one round about 115k miles...
Convertible was 8k€ just for the egine, the blue car was ~10k€ for the engine, but with some modifications on it... Money was good spent, because both cars transformed absolutely with that.
Convertible had 100k miles when it was done, the blue one round about 115k miles...
#13
Advanced
Thread Starter
had my two cars done here in germany during the last three year. Both cars were just a little bit leaking. I did a full rebuild, just to have it done and have a proper refreshed car to use.
Convertible was 8k€ just for the engine, the blue car was ~10k€ for the engine, but with some modifications on it... Money was good spent, because both cars transformed absolutely with that.
Convertible had 100k miles when it was done, the blue one round about 115k miles...
Convertible was 8k€ just for the engine, the blue car was ~10k€ for the engine, but with some modifications on it... Money was good spent, because both cars transformed absolutely with that.
Convertible had 100k miles when it was done, the blue one round about 115k miles...
#14
Bullet biting
This is dead on good advice. All your gaskets are approaching 30 years old. Do the job once right including. The reseal. Require in writing that the motor will not leak when the work is completed. Otherwise walk away. One thing to mention after I recently went through this is that vertex has some special gaskets they made for the heads which may allow you to avoid the expensive 993 replacements. They had to redo a bunch under warranty before they figured it out apparently. Also, one thing their guy Gilbert told me which rings true is that people who are oriented towards track or race set ups will not be as concerned with leaks. The best price I got to replace rings crack case and reseal was 12k.
Dlee, As a rule I'd recommend people generally bite the bullet and do a complete reseal
since you've already got the cylinders off. Keep in mind that the case through bolts seal rings are 30 something years old and can start leaking anytime even if there not now. Splitting the case doesn't add a ton to the total cost and that way you're assured of a leak free engine.
If you like shoot me an email with any specific desires and I can quote you prices.
And has been pointed out I do all the work here which can give better flexibility if things change midstream.
Mark
since you've already got the cylinders off. Keep in mind that the case through bolts seal rings are 30 something years old and can start leaking anytime even if there not now. Splitting the case doesn't add a ton to the total cost and that way you're assured of a leak free engine.
If you like shoot me an email with any specific desires and I can quote you prices.
And has been pointed out I do all the work here which can give better flexibility if things change midstream.
Mark
#15
Advanced
Thread Starter
Thanks Bud and agree on all points. One issue I still question is why shops can't more accurately give you an estimate with the understanding that if any surprises come up, of course it's extra (I'm speaking generally, the guy/shop came across recently had done everything right thus far). There's 2 reasons for my thinking on this, 1) if they do this work day in and day out, you would think they not only know the general costs, or have a job from last month could just look up, but also know what's involved, issues that most likely come up... 2) been told need to get the car in to look at it but I've stated like you guys have mentioned, whether it's leaking or not, I want the seals replaced. I really think these shops just don't understand how it comes off where it appears to be about just getting you in and once they get started most folks wouldn't stop the work, collect their parts and go elsewhere and if they did, they would have the opportunity to charge a fortune or hold the parts... i think if I go the shop route I want a price to simply do the diagnostic - pull the motor, pull the heads and check everything that needs to be done, provide a formal quote in writing with parts needed, services, warranty info in writing... One great part to this is I can then post that info here and get a great second opinion!!!
BTW. Mark sent me a private message with a lot more really good info and advice, definitely a good guy and appreciate his and everyone's time!
BTW. Mark sent me a private message with a lot more really good info and advice, definitely a good guy and appreciate his and everyone's time!