I am going to put a speed bleeder on clutch slave soon. May or may not go through full C4 bleed again and was curious what other Owner's experience regarding pressure pump running after an overnight sit of vehicle?

So, if any of you care to share, one morning, turn key to ON, count the seconds pump runs before going to START. Just curious....

 

I am not sure what you're asking? Are you planning to avoid doing a bleed on the clutch? Or the diff locks? I don't know the spec, but a healthy pump will run for a defined number of seconds... and a tired one will run more often, or for longer. I can try to look up the numbers.

 

Pump should run for 45 seconds if I remember correctly.

Mine has always been approximately 1 minute to 1 minute 15 seconds after sorting it all out. I was 2-3 minutes when I got the car.

What are you trying to do?

 

Yeah, mines like 2-3 minutes right now. Have to replace my bomb, but I like having the traction control disabled, so I don't really care.

 

Tbennett,

It's all to reduce my paranoia and the questions I ask myself many many times after doing maintenance on my car, "did it do that before I changed it" I upgraded to braided brake lines all around months ago, did a full 13pt bleed. Not sure I got great bleed on Clutch and gonna do it all again. So, being ADD with an OCD chaser, questions are an attempt to validate my work;

. Did exhaust smell like that before I cleaned engine bay?
. Why is there water drops coming from exhaust?
. Do PDAS locks sound different when switching console switch after bleed? Not sure i remember same # of "dunk dunk dunk dunk" coming from locks ? Did it sound that way before?
. I used to start car before hydraulic pump finished, now I wait and it runs a minute +? Does it suggest air in lines? Want to know what is "average" among like model cars.

I'm lucky thus far, never had a fault code on the car... Of course, saying it now could jinx me.

For education and my sanity, like to compare all the above with like cars having similar setup.

Matthew.

 

Well yeah, but it's also affecting your braking. The system needs to be pressurized and everytime you press the pedal, it releases pressure and then when it gets low, the system repressurizes, so you want to have that functioning properly...

 

Matthew. I applaud the work and concern...

But...worry less. It's an old car, and it'll always have a personality. Enjoy it and it'll tell you along the way what needs attention...

 

Oh, I know, it's on my list of todos. Car is already on stands and being torn apart for various projects over the winter, including replacing the bomb. I'll probably do it when I replace my clutch line with a stainless one, add a 993 clutch master, and rebuild my pedal cluster.

 

I find the system to be pretty trouble free. Yes I have rebuilt both slave and master in the clutch system, and if you follow A Streather's procedure for a brake bleed it works just fine.

Do you have a way to bleed the diff locks? Hammer or equivalent? You also need a pressure bleeder like the Motiv.... which you may already have...

To echo Goughary, it is an old car, but a well designed one. If you do the maintenance properly it should be fine.

 

Plus 1 on the Motive bleeder. Get the billet connector for it too. That tool is a must.

 

This should be a given - so if you don't have one, and you don't have a pdt999 to bleed the locks, you have to if you have a c4. So don't spend any money fixing anything till you have these. If you don't use a motive and you don't bleed the system with the motive full of fluid, the likelihood of introducing air is very high. And then getting that air out can be problematic....so let's hope that's not your problem. ( or hope it is, cuz it'll be cheeper...)

 

I have the Motive and UDT999, so good there . But, I only did Motive dry and think I will try wet next time.... Learning a lot on RL .... Thanks for all the feedback.... Trying to get on my local Indy's schedule, backed up until mid-late January to sort out a slow leak and my drivetrain issue, then it's just Driveeeeeeeeeeee

 

What's the slow leak? Most of the normal leaks you can easily tackle yourself and save yourself a ton of money...

Definitely use the motive wet. I'm going to guess that you introduced air and that's more likely your issue regarding time to pressurize. Give the bleed job another try before allocating time and funds to swapping out components. Just opening the bomb when you have the motive dry, removes enough in that one procedure to get down to the bottom of your resevoir...so be careful. Wet makes the whole thing a breeze.

Now...just to have said it, if you have the aluminum version of the motive, you are less likely to have that burst off the top of your resevoir, if you have the plastic cap version, be very careful to cover the paintwork on your car with plastic. There have been horror stories of the caps cracking or popping off and drenching the paint around the fender and the frunk with fluid. Which isn't good. I never go above 15psi w mine.

Also, I usually go through approx six cans of ate200 on a bleed and I always end up w almost a can left in the motive. That can gets dated, and I might use it to bleed my Audi, or it sits for max a week or two and then gets tossed. Don't use old fluid once it's been open. Brake fluid sucks in moisture quickly and the moisture in the system corrodes all the copper lines and you end up with abrasive crude ruining your abs pump and diff/slave seals etc...

Sorry if some of my comments come off as being rudimentary...just trying to be thorough.

 

After one day pump runs for 20sec
After a week for 50sec.
After 3 times braking it runs 3-4sec.

Directly after the bleed pump took only 10sec after a day.

Cheers

 

I usually drive my car once a week. Pump runs for about 30 seconds. Have had the C-4 for 8 years. I bleed the brakes & clutch slave(motive) every 2 years and change fluid. Have never done the whole process(locks, bomb etc...) and I have never had a problem.