Major Oil leak left Cam box
11-28-2015, 10:56 AM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Major Oil leak left Cam box
I have a major oil leak from the driver side cam box, as it mates to the crankcase. The oil seems to be coming from about the middle of the mating surfaces between the cam box and the crankcase, at the rear of the engine. I checked the cam cover bolts and the cam box to crankcase bolts, all are tight. There are other minor oil leaks, but the cam box is dripping a drop of oil every 2-3 seconds.
The engine has 175K miles on the clock, and I wonder if I should pull the engine for new cam chains, cam guides, cylinder head rebuild. The engine runs strong.
I repaired a leak at the top of the cam box with JB weld about two years ago, and the JB weld is still holding. I am thinking to buy a cam box, to have just in case mine is cracked. Anyone else seen this issue?
The engine has 175K miles on the clock, and I wonder if I should pull the engine for new cam chains, cam guides, cylinder head rebuild. The engine runs strong.
I repaired a leak at the top of the cam box with JB weld about two years ago, and the JB weld is still holding. I am thinking to buy a cam box, to have just in case mine is cracked. Anyone else seen this issue?
11-29-2015, 12:36 AM
#2
Rennlist Member
"engine runs strong is subjective", you should perform a leak down test and listen to where leakage hiss is coming from. That you will tell you a bit more about your engine condition. Procedure here:
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...build-diy.html
I think you can replace the left side cam chain housing by dropping the engine a little bit. Driver's side doesn't have the blocking air conditioner bracket side interfering with it.
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...build-diy.html
I think you can replace the left side cam chain housing by dropping the engine a little bit. Driver's side doesn't have the blocking air conditioner bracket side interfering with it.
11-29-2015, 01:03 AM
#3
Burning Brakes
Can this be done without timing that cam again? Having never done that, what besides left tensioner needs to be removed to slip the chain off sprocket? If I were to attempt myself, I would check left cam timing before and after with dial gauge and numbers better match.
Last edited by C4inLA; 11-29-2015 at 02:46 AM.
11-29-2015, 01:15 AM
#4
Rennlist Member
You need to time the cam again which also can be done with the engine slightly dropped in the rear.
If the engine has never been touched then your 25 year old cars has old and brittle o-rings everywhere. I was shocked how many of the O-rings I could crack with my hands and had taken the cross section of the cavity they were in with no spring back. A whole new set to o-rings with the modern rubber is the way to go. On my 91 C2 Tip I dropped the engine and basically replaced every gasket and O-ring possible then put the engine back in. There is a whole bunch of while you are in there stuff you can do to basically refurbish the car without an engine rebuild. However, at 175k miles I would think you need to take a critical look at the leak down results and where the hiss of the leak is coming from.
If the engine has never been touched then your 25 year old cars has old and brittle o-rings everywhere. I was shocked how many of the O-rings I could crack with my hands and had taken the cross section of the cavity they were in with no spring back. A whole new set to o-rings with the modern rubber is the way to go. On my 91 C2 Tip I dropped the engine and basically replaced every gasket and O-ring possible then put the engine back in. There is a whole bunch of while you are in there stuff you can do to basically refurbish the car without an engine rebuild. However, at 175k miles I would think you need to take a critical look at the leak down results and where the hiss of the leak is coming from.