911Jetta

Don't add any more oil!

freedy7100

Wasn't planning on doing so. Just wanted to make sure the current status is ok. Do I need to siphon out any?

John McM

Maybe they don't post, but I've yet to read of a 964 engine suffering due to a low oil level. Lots of overfill posts and they are usually messy.

I keep mine just above the low level on the dipstick, which usually equates to just on the low level on the gauge.

Siphoning isn't easy. I'd crack the oil tank drain plug and let a liter seep out, then measure on the dipstick and retorque to 37ft lbs when right. Sure it doesn't allow you to replace the washer but a leak there is easy to spot later.

freedy7100

So you think I'm wayyyyy over? In danger? Steve Weiner says to have your dipstick read center I believe. That's where I am but I'm a n00b. If it's absolutely necessary I'd be interested to know and why. I already did my road trip 500 miles, is it too late for me if in fact I am in danger?

John McM

Don't panic. It's not way over. What you are trying to avoid is oil coming up through the breather into your intake in any great quantity. By having the oil level at the lower end you have less chance of this when driving hard, particularly if at the track. The oil will be burned in a nice smokey haze if lucky. I used to do the half full gauge method but found oil in the intake runners when running at the track. There's a lot of oil in our dry sump engines. Running at the low level is a small difference in system contents. It's not like a conventional wet sump car.

John McM

Also I measure oil when the temp gauge is at 9pm. Yours looks a little bit colder than that in the picture.

A914MAN

Just FYI Freedy, you read the gauge only at operating temp, while at idle with the car on a flat level surface. The reason it doesn't read correctly under way is the oil is being circulated through the system at higher volume.

If you are checking the dipstick, it should be the same: at operating temp, idling on flat and level ground.

If you check the oil with the engine off, the oil drains down in the crankcase and will show (on the dipstick) to be way low on oil. It's only when the engine is running, and at idle that the oil tank will show the true oil level.

Many a new Porsche owner has mistakenly added (and added) oil until it showed on the dipstick of their not idling car. It's never good, and depending on the vintage of the engine the Porsche, it can be an expensive mistake.

A914MAN

BTW John MCM, what oil did your engine builder recommend? Just curious. I'm kind of spooked now, and considering adding a bottle of Redline ZDDP additive.

John McM

I used Mobil 1 with a high zinc content http://alliedlubricants.co.nz/mobil-1-racing-4t-10w-40

However, Steve's comments about 20W 50 had me looking outside the Mobil range as that weight is not sold in a Mobil 1 high zinc product in New Zealand.

In the end I found this high zinc oil. http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Pro...5-Litre/342284

It could possibly be a bit high in Zinc, but it's a risk I'm willing to take to have a 50W oil.

Marine Blue

The gauge won't read pressure when the car is being driven, it only reads at idle. I was wondering the same thing and found this noted in the manual. Lot's of other interesting quirks in the manual, worth the read.

968norway

It is also important to be sure the thermostat is open and oil is going to the oil-cooler, otherwise it will read low. Seems about a 1/2 a liter difference.

tgil

Brad Penn is a great go to and has been recommended by many at Porsche Tech tactics for aircooled motors. But a few other brands like Royal Purple, Valvoline Race oil have higher zinc as well - I stick with Brad Penn (great prices on Amazon for a case)

freedy7100

I don't do track driving, spirited driving yes, but mostly on the highway. I am not too concerned since these cars can tend to burn about a quart every 600-700 miles according to my mechanic who is well respected in the NY area as far as I know. Add in that I have a slight leak, have put about 2,000 miles on, adding half a quart should be harmless. I did notice that my temp gauge did not even reach "9 o clock" on the gauge the whole drive, this could be because of the speeds I was driving and the engine was staying cool. Also, I did check the dipstick in idle after about a 50 mile drive on a flat pad at the gas station and it showed half way which I think I feel comfortable with.

2000m2

After a few months with the Amsoil Z-Rod 20w50, I can say the 964 is noticeably quieter and seems to run smoother.

911Jetta

I've been using Brad Penn 20/50 for years, but a recent service garage change means I'm using Motul 15/50 V300 now.
I then add a can of Liqui Moly MoS2 Anti-Friction Engine Treatment after my engine burns through a 1/2 quart of oil: https://products.liqui-moly.us/addit...treatment.html
I do a complete oil change after 3,000 miles.
A couple tanks before I'm due to change the oil again, I add Liqui Moly Valve Cleaner OR Liqui Moly Jectron Fuel Injection Cleaner to the gas tank: https://products.liqui-moly.us/addit...ct-media-modal ml#product-media-modal