964 C4 light refurb
10-09-2018, 06:08 AM
#1201
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
New Porsche OEM rotors. Quality is long remembered after the price is forgotten. The ones they replaced had no cracking after multiple years of track days.
Last edited by John McM; 10-10-2018 at 03:46 PM.
10-09-2018, 05:37 PM
#1202
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
The tool I used to undo the rear caliper bolts, one of which requires you to insert the tool in an access hole in the swing arm. This tool is a 10mm hex with a 200mm shaft. Any shorter and you would struggle. I obtained the tool from an Ali Express seller. It gave no concerns even when tourqing the bolts to 85 Nm.
Last edited by John McM; 11-24-2018 at 06:50 PM.
10-09-2018, 05:49 PM
#1203
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
For some reason I thought I would have to back off the handbrake tension at the rear hubs to remove the rotors. In the end it wasn't necessary. If you release the handbrake in the cabin the rear rotors just slide off.
Just for interest this is what the US driver side handbrake looks like. The adjustment on the hub is completed by turning the cogged wheel through an access hole. The hub has to be in a particular position to access the cog. NB: As Jason wrote in his DIY https://rennlist.com/forums/964-1989...ing-brake.html the access position differs from each side.
Just for interest this is what the US driver side handbrake looks like. The adjustment on the hub is completed by turning the cogged wheel through an access hole. The hub has to be in a particular position to access the cog. NB: As Jason wrote in his DIY https://rennlist.com/forums/964-1989...ing-brake.html the access position differs from each side.
Last edited by John McM; 10-10-2018 at 03:50 PM.
10-10-2018, 06:36 AM
#1204
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Rotors (Porsche OEM) and pads (PFC08) replaced. A short test drive shows all is ok, but the pads and rotors need a good hot session to get to know each other before they will be working at an optimal level.
Interesting noting the minimum thickness inscribed on the rotors is in inches and doesn't marry with the figures in the workshop manual for the rears.
The new fronts are 28mm thick and the workshop manual gives a minimum wear limit of 26mm which matches the rotor inscription of 1.024" However there is a discrepancy on the rears.
The rears new are 24mm thick with the manual citing a minimum wear limit of 22mm but the rotor minimum wear inscription is 0.886" which is 22.5mm. A bit academic. Maybe because the rear rotors are common to 944, 968 and 964 models and their calipers have different effective working ranges?
Interesting noting the minimum thickness inscribed on the rotors is in inches and doesn't marry with the figures in the workshop manual for the rears.
The new fronts are 28mm thick and the workshop manual gives a minimum wear limit of 26mm which matches the rotor inscription of 1.024" However there is a discrepancy on the rears.
The rears new are 24mm thick with the manual citing a minimum wear limit of 22mm but the rotor minimum wear inscription is 0.886" which is 22.5mm. A bit academic. Maybe because the rear rotors are common to 944, 968 and 964 models and their calipers have different effective working ranges?
Last edited by John McM; 10-10-2018 at 02:41 PM.
10-11-2018, 01:59 PM
#1206
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for the compliment. I’ve been working on my Boxster track car and can’t help comparing the build and systems with the 964. The 964 will be around for decades whereas the Boxster will not.
The Boxster brake rotors are thinner and the caliper design is a step backwards, plus I'm spending $$$ and time to make it survive the track whereas the 964 does it out of the box with its dry sump. One thing the Boxster has in its favour is cost. I have more money in the C4 engine and transmission rebuild than the total Boxster cost.
Last edited by John McM; 10-11-2018 at 03:18 PM.
11-24-2018, 07:00 PM
#1207
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Thread Starter
Just keeping the thread intact (I posted this in a seperate thread).
On my last last road trip I heard occasional groaning from the power steering pump. The fluid level seemed to be ok so I decided it was time to change the reservoir which has an integrated filter that apparently blocks with age.
While changing the reservoir I decided to flush the system. In theory it’s easy. You hook up a container full of fluid to feed the system and a container for it to drain into. A bit messy in practice (ATF fluid is almost as bad as CV joint grease).
System flushed and reservoir replaced. No more noise!
On my last last road trip I heard occasional groaning from the power steering pump. The fluid level seemed to be ok so I decided it was time to change the reservoir which has an integrated filter that apparently blocks with age.
While changing the reservoir I decided to flush the system. In theory it’s easy. You hook up a container full of fluid to feed the system and a container for it to drain into. A bit messy in practice (ATF fluid is almost as bad as CV joint grease).
System flushed and reservoir replaced. No more noise!
12-11-2018, 07:08 PM
#1208
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I'm fast approaching the end of my 'light' refurb. Right now, I'm focused on returning the rear spoiler to as original, except I will modify the controller box to raise the speed at which it deploys.
I sourced a spoiler (Guards Red), plus the mechanism and controllers from a local owner. He had moved to fixed tail.
Previously, I got the mechanism working but it had no spoiler curtain or grille seal and it was a spoiler that someone had cut off the lip that attaches to the curtain. It also developed a crack. So this stage is fit the curtain and grille seal, then repaint the new to me spoiler and modify the controller box.
I sourced a spoiler (Guards Red), plus the mechanism and controllers from a local owner. He had moved to fixed tail.
Previously, I got the mechanism working but it had no spoiler curtain or grille seal and it was a spoiler that someone had cut off the lip that attaches to the curtain. It also developed a crack. So this stage is fit the curtain and grille seal, then repaint the new to me spoiler and modify the controller box.
12-11-2018, 07:14 PM
#1209
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Having fitted a curtain to another 964 I knew it can be difficult. So I decided to fit the curtain to the new spoiler while it was off the car. Last time, I used a hair dryer to make the curtain groove more flexible. This time I used a plastic spatula to coerce it.
12-11-2018, 07:19 PM
#1210
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
With the curtain fitted, I installed the Guards Red spoiler and fitted the rubber seal beneath the grille wall. The latter is a 993 part and needed a minor cut to clear part of the 964 spoiler.
12-11-2018, 07:35 PM
#1211
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
After testing that everything worked, I researched painting the spoiler. Last time, I gave a spoiler to a panel shop, along with the paint. They still charged a lot and didn't mask the grille properly so I want to go the DIY route this time.
The Gold standard is 2k and I did my usual YouTube research, which suggested 2k spray cans. Unfortunately my paint shop doesn't stock them as they were so expensive they didn't sell. Given this is a relatively small part I decided to go the Lacquer and Clear route. I will also fix gravel damage to my sills.
So the plan is:
1. Plastic undercoat for the sills, followed by primer, lacquer colour (color) coat and then clear.
2. The spoiler will be rubbed down with a Scotchbrite (test shows it works well) then a lacquer colour (color) coat and finally clear.
I have purpose made Scotchbrite auto pads for rubbing down (Red/Brown is for Primer and Yellow is for Colour coats). I also have tack cloths and a plan to make a temporary paint booth out of a gazebo and plastic panels. I hope it works.
BTW I have learned from my last efforts and even though it's not 2k, I will have lung and eye protection while painting.
The Gold standard is 2k and I did my usual YouTube research, which suggested 2k spray cans. Unfortunately my paint shop doesn't stock them as they were so expensive they didn't sell. Given this is a relatively small part I decided to go the Lacquer and Clear route. I will also fix gravel damage to my sills.
So the plan is:
1. Plastic undercoat for the sills, followed by primer, lacquer colour (color) coat and then clear.
2. The spoiler will be rubbed down with a Scotchbrite (test shows it works well) then a lacquer colour (color) coat and finally clear.
I have purpose made Scotchbrite auto pads for rubbing down (Red/Brown is for Primer and Yellow is for Colour coats). I also have tack cloths and a plan to make a temporary paint booth out of a gazebo and plastic panels. I hope it works.
BTW I have learned from my last efforts and even though it's not 2k, I will have lung and eye protection while painting.
03-15-2019, 09:02 PM
#1212
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Transmission oil change to take my mind off the tragedy in NZ yesterday. I had the transmission rebuilt three years ago and filled with Swepco 201. It felt a bit notchy when cold so I decided to change the oil. Nothing special to say except the oil stinks and inevitably I got some on me. The hand pump worked well but took a lot of pumps to get the 3.8 litres in.
Last edited by John McM; 03-15-2019 at 09:20 PM.
03-20-2019, 02:48 PM
#1214
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Hi Tiaan, I’m reluctant to say a lot better given the positive bias of changes made but it is noticeably better. This didn’t make sense to me so I did more research. The Swepco 201 is a mineral oil and seems to be a ‘go to’ oil for the 915 box, but I found a few comments about it giving baulky shifts when cold and a synthetic being better for the G50 box. My shift definitely improved with heat in the box, but it really detracted from the driving experience. The synchros seem to work better with the Penrite and it’s the correct spec as per Porsche recommendations.
A rider for the above, I’m not an oil expert, just a product user. There are comments out there about synthetic oils wearing synchros faster than Dino oils and even that the shift quality shouldn’t be a measure of an oils suitability. All I know is that shift quality is a key input in enjoying driving my car and I’m Happy
A rider for the above, I’m not an oil expert, just a product user. There are comments out there about synthetic oils wearing synchros faster than Dino oils and even that the shift quality shouldn’t be a measure of an oils suitability. All I know is that shift quality is a key input in enjoying driving my car and I’m Happy
03-20-2019, 02:58 PM
#1215
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Approximately 35 years ago, I worked as an Avionics technician and an interest in reprising that part in my life was reignited by a spare faulty spoiler controller.
Typical to the mindset shown in this thread I went overboard and made a test rig and bought some test gear, but with the help of others I've managed to repair that controller and two others. I have also been resetting the extend speeds higher to reduce wear and tear on the spoiler mechanism.
Typical to the mindset shown in this thread I went overboard and made a test rig and bought some test gear, but with the help of others I've managed to repair that controller and two others. I have also been resetting the extend speeds higher to reduce wear and tear on the spoiler mechanism.
