robt964

Happy days

964tit

With the valve covers, I found my leaks were actually coming down along the fasteners and dripping from the nuts, not along the outside of the gasket...

John McM

Engine and box go in tomorrow so it's now or never for the engine pad and keeper. Very tidy but I'm not sure whether I'll notice any real difference.

John McM

Showing off my new spring plates. I feel for those of you in salted road environments. New Zealand is very kind on cars.

John McM

Sorted the crank ref sensor where the plug had fused.

John McM

A big day

Enso

Good work John
It's a wonderful accomplishment
Good to take yr time on assemble , one can get anxious

John McM

Thanks Enso, there's still a lot of work to do, but engine in is a major milestone.

John McM

A frustrating day, but you expect those with a refurb. The side sills went on easily. All new parts and having done this a few times before helped.

John McM

However the front end posed more problems:

1. The left hand headlight screw isn't holding - I may have to fit a captive nut.

2. The brake duct is interfering with the fitting of the indicators

3. The carbon fibre (Fiber) lay up over the Techart splitter needs to smoothed so it fits the curve.

On the positive side, the new rubber and carbon fibre is popping against the new paint.

John McM

A Rennlister sent me a PM asking to pass on some hints for an engine/box drop and refit. So I'll post it here.

I believe this job is within the scope of anyone with enough space, the right tools and attitude. That said I'm the first to admit that it is a false sense of economy to do yourself if it's a one off as the cost of ten hours of labour is far less than the cost of the tools needed. For me it was partly bucket list material and the fact I had lots of other work to do on the engine etc.

Safety - our cars weigh > 1,300kg. The engine is ~ 250kg and the transmission is ~ 70kg. You cannot man handle the weights you will work with. The more stable the gear, the better the quality and the wider the performance envelope the better.

My tools of choice are Esco stands and an AC jack. I feel safe working under the car with the stands and the AC Jack can reach deep under the car if needed.

John McM

AC jack and Esco stand. Next to the AC Jack is a 'race' jack. It has the same weight capacity but an inferior reach and height. The race jack is useful to lift small loads and to help with the transmission. Please note that I use jack pads where possible as they lift the jack stand clear of the sills etc.

John McM

Along with the jacks and stands I made a series of boards. I also bought an ATV lift and made a plywood engine case stand

John McM

Take two 2 X 6 boards and place under a front wheel. Put a chock in front of the wheel. Repeat for the other side. This lifts the front of the car by 4 inches. You are doing this to give you room to jack the front of the car up if needed (you don't have to lift the front of the car to drop the engine/box)

John McM

Place a small folded newspaper or similar on the AC Jack pad. Place the pad under the engine case join (ridge), about two thirds of the way up. Jack the car up. How high? Well I did this with the bumper removed and needed 37 inches (94cm) clearance from the bottom of the rear indicator frame. You should get this right first time as the moment you disconnect the engine mounts you have few options to lift the car higher. When the car is the right height, place the Esco stands under the rear jack points.