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As for Jeff taking on 964s, there are plenty of Tipos in New Zealand he can purchase We're a bit more precious about our manuals leaving the country.
Haha, unless my left leg falls off, I will be hunting manuals. Even Mrs Jeff was annoyed when we were buying our old ML and she found out they didn't come in manual
Haha, unless my left leg falls off, I will be hunting manuals. Even Mrs Jeff was annoyed when we were buying our old ML and she found out they didn't come in manual
We're not absolutely sure how the 2018 Australian changes will impact the NZ market, but we expecting a bit more competition for the good cars. If I exported one of mine to Dingo land I'd want to test it in Tasmania first
We're not absolutely sure how the 2018 Australian changes will impact the NZ market, but we expecting a bit more competition for the good cars. If I exported one of mine to Dingo land I'd want to test it in Tasmania first
I am not sure that the Aussie rules are going to open up that much, and I don't know if your cars are that much cheaper than ours are they?
I plan on doing a trip down to Tassie on my car when (if) it gets finished
As for Jeff taking on 964s, there are plenty of Tipos in New Zealand he can purchase We're a bit more precious about our manuals leaving the country.
John- I think the noise you are talking about was the vibration problem I had. Ended up being the front right wheel bearing - which was odd, cuz it was new a year ago June. *** brand bearings are apparently notorious for being delivered with little to no grease, which was pointed out some time ago here on suspension madness...but I had already bought them and took my chances. I replaced both rears with skf and when these fronts go I'll be replacing them with something more reliable as well...
The noise we had on the Marblehead run, was a bad alternator. This alternator was a reman I bought through pelican six years ago. It's was bangin and clangin when we got to Darren's house in Marblehead, but the noise had been there for weeks, just got worse on the long drive. So I buttoned it up well enough to drive back, called Dave at butzigear along the way, and Monday am stoped at his shop for my new reman alternator. Odd thing, I've bought a bunch of reman alternators through pelican, and the one Dave supplied me was significantly better quality at effectively the same price. So he is my new parts supplier...I threw that alternator in today and the car is like new.
I drive my car hard...more or less all the time. Whether that is hard driving or just start stop and traffic, it takes a huge beating. I end up breaking stuff here and there...and then....the car gets newer. Lol...
John- I think the noise you are talking about was the vibration problem I had. Ended up being the front right wheel bearing - which was odd, cuz it was new a year ago June. *** brand bearings are apparently notorious for being delivered with little to no grease, which was pointed out some time ago here on suspension madness...but I had already bought them and took my chances. I replaced both rears with skf and when these fronts go I'll be replacing them with something more reliable as well...
The noise we had on the Marblehead run, was a bad alternator. This alternator was a reman I bought through pelican six years ago. It's was bangin and clangin when we got to Darren's house in Marblehead, but the noise had been there for weeks, just got worse on the long drive. So I buttoned it up well enough to drive back, called Dave at butzigear along the way, and Monday am stoped at his shop for my new reman alternator. Odd thing, I've bought a bunch of reman alternators through pelican, and the one Dave supplied me was significantly better quality at effectively the same price. So he is my new parts supplier...I threw that alternator in today and the car is like new.
I drive my car hard...more or less all the time. Whether that is hard driving or just start stop and traffic, it takes a huge beating. I end up breaking stuff here and there...and then....the car gets newer. Lol...
That was it. Good it was identified.
As for the alternator, we don't have reman options in NZ so it's either buy new or send it off for refurb.
I've had an alternator done by an ex VAG specialist and currently have a starter motor with him as well. The latter needs a new solenoid. It was tempting to get an aftermarket one off eBay but I figure the existing one lasted 27 years so refurb is the way to go.
just adding to the madness ... Vapor Blasted the C4 subframe bits in the Vixen (love this thing - has not impact on rubber or paper or anything soft like that yet clears all the gunge, marks, stains etc..) - unlike shot blasting the ali alloy (i hear it is not just aluminium?) is sealed/peened and dirty paw prints are easily wiped off so no need to add the clear coat which ultimately starts looking shoddy when it flakes, scratches etc.. or so goes the theory - will need to review after a few months. So far amazed. VB combines glass bead with water vapor.
BTW The hardware is cadmium plated (just without the yellow passivation last step) - just shown for contrast (little)
They are lefty loosy righty tighty...so normal threads.
According to Porsche they must be replaced each time. And for the amount of times they get taken off, it's a good idea, even though they are 35 dollars each, which is absolutely ridiculous pricing for an M22 lock nut.
Reality is that this type of nut is typically rated for 15 uses. Porsche is taking the extreme side, for good reason.
The RS cars re-used their axle nuts, but they use on the outside of the standard axle nut, a second locking nut torqued down to 120 ft lbs over the axle nut which is torqued to 339 ft lbs.
Axle nuts that are re-used could vibrate loose. So play on the safe side.
Make sure when you go to removed yours that you have a nice loooooooong breaker bar or a torque multiplier. And when you torque back down, that you have an accurate way to measure 339 ft lbs.
Fwiw- you'll need the car on the ground with someone on the brakes to et these loose. Or if the car is on stands, shove a screw driver through the brake caliper to keep the rotor from turning...
They are lefty loosy righty tighty...so normal threads.
According to Porsche they must be replaced each time. And for the amount of times they get taken off, it's a good idea, even though they are 35 dollars each, which is absolutely ridiculous pricing for an M22 lock nut.
Reality is that this type of nut is typically rated for 15 uses. Porsche is taking the extreme side, for good reason.
The RS cars re-used their axle nuts, but they use on the outside of the standard axle nut, a second locking nut torqued down to 120 ft lbs over the axle nut which is torqued to 339 ft lbs.
Axle nuts that are re-used could vibrate loose. So play on the safe side.
Make sure when you go to removed yours that you have a nice loooooooong breaker bar or a torque multiplier. And when you torque back down, that you have an accurate way to measure 339 ft lbs.
Fwiw- you'll need the car on the ground with someone on the brakes to et these loose. Or if the car is on stands, shove a screw driver through the brake caliper to keep the rotor from turning...
Good luck. Call if you need anything.
Thanks for the answers, very helpful.
I spent a lot of money on a torque multiplier thanks to this thread......
They are lefty loosy righty tighty...so normal threads.
According to Porsche they must be replaced each time. And for the amount of times they get taken off, it's a good idea, even though they are 35 dollars each, which is absolutely ridiculous pricing for an M22 lock nut.
Reality is that this type of nut is typically rated for 15 uses. Porsche is taking the extreme side, for good reason.
The RS cars re-used their axle nuts, but they use on the outside of the standard axle nut, a second locking nut torqued down to 120 ft lbs over the axle nut which is torqued to 339 ft lbs.
Axle nuts that are re-used could vibrate loose. So play on the safe side.
Make sure when you go to removed yours that you have a nice loooooooong breaker bar or a torque multiplier. And when you torque back down, that you have an accurate way to measure 339 ft lbs.
Fwiw- you'll need the car on the ground with someone on the brakes to et these loose. Or if the car is on stands, shove a screw driver through the brake caliper to keep the rotor from turning...
Good luck. Call if you need anything.
The rear axle nuts are only $10
999 084 634 02 I think is supersceded to 99908464101
07-04-2017, 08:48 PM
