Lash adjust Go No Go approach?
09-16-2015, 08:12 PM
#16
Technical Guru
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Especially when it comes time to tighten the adjusting nut.
09-17-2015, 07:07 AM
#17
Instructor
http://www.stomskiracing.com/product...-lash-adjuster
used this with the engine out of the car and like it much better than other methods, with a dial gauge you can get it ***** on. will try it with the engine in the car in another 500 miles or so, have to use a small gauge with the engine in the car and #6 may have to be feeler method
kirk's tool looks pretty slick, i may pick up one and give it a try
used this with the engine out of the car and like it much better than other methods, with a dial gauge you can get it ***** on. will try it with the engine in the car in another 500 miles or so, have to use a small gauge with the engine in the car and #6 may have to be feeler method
kirk's tool looks pretty slick, i may pick up one and give it a try
09-17-2015, 01:16 PM
#18
Burning Brakes
http://www.stomskiracing.com/product...-lash-adjuster
used this with the engine out of the car and like it much better than other methods, with a dial gauge you can get it ***** on. will try it with the engine in the car in another 500 miles or so, have to use a small gauge with the engine in the car and #6 may have to be feeler method
used this with the engine out of the car and like it much better than other methods, with a dial gauge you can get it ***** on. will try it with the engine in the car in another 500 miles or so, have to use a small gauge with the engine in the car and #6 may have to be feeler method
Looking forward to hearing your experience in that scenario.
09-17-2015, 10:53 PM
#19
Race Car
Lash adjust Go No Go approach?
Looks like the stomski tool just needs a smaller dial gauge to work in car right?
What's the best backside tool for use in-car?
What's the best backside tool for use in-car?
09-17-2015, 11:03 PM
#20
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
09-18-2015, 12:19 AM
#21
Race Car
Lash adjust Go No Go approach?
Originally Posted by C4inLA
Huh? Two feeler gauges from hf ?
Is there a "best tool" this way that fits over the backside from inside the car?
09-20-2015, 08:58 AM
#22
Rennlist Member
To the OP, as was said valve clearance is a compromise between thermal expansion taking up all the slack and holding the valve off the seat (Burnt valves, worn cam and rockers) vs bits hammering themselves to bits. That's one of the advantages of hydraulic lifters. But the cam is designed with a ramp section that slowly (relatively) takes up the slack before opening the valve. There is a ton of inertia in the system at revs as well.
The easiest tool in my book is a 12-18" long feeler gauge. You can get them from snap on or a machinist supply. Bend it as needed, cut the end off when it gets chewed up. I find a curve works best. Set the crank position, loosen the nut/adjuster, slide in the gauge, tighten the screw to take all the slack/oil out, the loosen, snug to the guage and tighten the nut. Take out the blade. Takes a little feel but confirm it with a dial guage if it's your first time. Trying to stick it back in is hard on you and the tool in the car...
The easiest tool in my book is a 12-18" long feeler gauge. You can get them from snap on or a machinist supply. Bend it as needed, cut the end off when it gets chewed up. I find a curve works best. Set the crank position, loosen the nut/adjuster, slide in the gauge, tighten the screw to take all the slack/oil out, the loosen, snug to the guage and tighten the nut. Take out the blade. Takes a little feel but confirm it with a dial guage if it's your first time. Trying to stick it back in is hard on you and the tool in the car...
09-21-2015, 01:34 AM
#23
Technical Guru
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I can't stress enough just how much of an improvement it is over every existing valve adjusting method; feeler gauge on the foot, backside method, z-block & indicator, bisected screw-driver, etc. And when it comes time to tighten the adjusting nut, you will know instantly if the screw has turned and not only that, it pretty much prevents it from happening. After the 1st two valves you'll go back and recheck but only because you can't believe how simple it was and think that you must've screwed something up. There is no guess-work, it is a micrometer.
