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New clutch, which way to go?

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Old 08-26-2015, 08:03 AM
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fluxdon
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Default New clutch, which way to go?

Next season is time for a new clutch, brakes, tires, valve adjustment and service.
As I donīt intent to track my car the suggestion from my mechanic was to keep the brakes stock as they should be sufficient which I think I will follow.

The car currently has a complete Bilstein HD shock and suspension, and a cup bypass. Other then that I am completely stock.

When changing the clutch, should I then change my flywheel as well?

My ideas where:
New clutch (RS)?
New flywheel?
Air filter (cone air inducktion kit)
ECU remap

What am I missing and what way would go?

7 month a year it is my daily driver so nothing too crazy, but I would like a better throttle response and a bit more umpfh
Old 08-26-2015, 09:03 AM
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Rocket Rob
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A lightweight flywheel definitely improves the throttle response. But its not cheap. I would suggest driving a car with one if you can. I installed a LWF on my coupe. 90% of the time, its great but I have stalling problems even after a DME chip. Its especially a problem when the engine is cold and the AC is on.

Where are you? Maybe a fellow Rennlister is nearby.
Old 08-26-2015, 09:50 AM
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Amroth
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I would definitely invest in the LWF. It's my favourite mod tied with the KW V3 suspension. With the Steve Wong chip I never have stalls.

- It revs so fast it really feels like a proper sports car. This alone will put a massive grin on your face.

- You get slightly faster acceleration from gears 1, 2 and a little in 3

- You save 8 kg of weight in general but more importantly 8 kilos of ROTATIONAL mass. For me it's worth every penny. Please don't miss this opportunity to transform your car!


So in summary I recommend you do the following based on your info:

Priority 1: LWF + RS clutch combo, paired with a Steve Wong chip to sort idle and stalling issues (and improve your throttle response and power in general)

Priority 2: Leave your stock intake but drill holes into your airbox. The induction sound is very addictive and very nice. And it costs nothing but 15 minutes of your time.

Priority 3: Cat bypass or sport cat together with your primary bypass is what I have on the car now and it sounds awesome. Many people have this combo and can attest to the same.


Good luck with your decision!
Old 08-26-2015, 10:14 AM
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Goughary
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Default New clutch, which way to go?

You won't get umph from a new flywheel. You will get slightly better throttle response, but as has been noted, you may also end up with a few issues to work out. I like the lightweight flywheel, I don't have one, but have driven cars with them. If it were me, I would call Steve Weiner and see about his mid weight flywheel and go that direction if it's a daily driver. Much more appropriate for street use. As to the clutch, why go RS if that means you will replace it again earlier? Seems costly for virtually no performance gain over stock.

Intake and ecu remap. Again, you aren't going to find umph. You might find a tiny marginable gain. But unless you plan on being full throttle all the time, to the read line on the street, you gain nothing, since if it were stock, and you weren't full throttle accelerating to the redline, you'd still have more throttle to give. And on the road you aren't looking for an added 10th of a second in a lap time. So until you are going to spend 10-20k+, don't go looking for horsepower. The car will ask you for all your horsepower money, just to be maintained...trust me.

Best bang for the buck with these cars is to take everything that's not welded in or absolutely necessary - out. You will get actual umph. For free.
Old 08-26-2015, 10:27 AM
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DobermanDad
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I have a light wheel flywheel installed. The car also got a SW chip, dyno'd etc...

This was done because my car was tracked on weekends. Don't really see a lot of advantages to it for street, other than the cool factor really. No gonna lie and say I don't like it though, but will say the gas pedal is much more sensitive. So you have to be a little lighter footed because the car will rev up really easy. Took me a minute to get used to that.
Old 08-26-2015, 02:25 PM
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speedbagger
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who's the best source for a lwfw + clutch kit?

is it really that much more expensive than stock components?
Old 08-26-2015, 02:28 PM
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fluxdon
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First of all I appreciate all of your suggestions and reply.

One of the reasons I wanted faster throttle response was that I tried my friends 79ī 3.0 911. And I really liked the very snappy throttle response it has.
I really do not want to ruin the car as a daily driver, but I keep hearing everyone raving about how easy it is to give the car 50+ hp (300-320hp) and of course I would not mind some extra power.

My mechanic is reasonable but when I said new clutch and then do the flywheel plus airbox and ECU he also mentioned the CAT bypass to get the most out of the engine.

The theory about the clutch being worn faster when RS I have not heard before but that could be a dealbreaker for me.

I live in Copenhagen and will look for someone with upgrades on their car.

Thank you once again Rennlist is the #1 forum!
Old 08-26-2015, 02:46 PM
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fluxdon
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I have been looking a kits here:
http://www.fvd.de/de/en/Porsche-0/-1...Value=flywheel

Prices are not cheap and without VAT on 20%.
Old 08-26-2015, 02:51 PM
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DobermanDad
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Feel ya, personally I'd do it.

Can't go wrong with FVD. Great service, great people, ordered from them many times.

If you join Rennlist they usually give a 10% discount to us too.
Old 08-27-2015, 02:49 AM
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perelet
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Originally Posted by Amroth
...
- You save 8 kg of weight in general but more importantly 8 kilos of ROTATIONAL mass. For me it's worth every penny. Please don't miss this opportunity to transform your car!
....
Make it 4.5kg(10lb) . There's myth spread about weight where "tuners" advertise huge weight difference, but if you weight things, you'll realize that they quote weight difference between DWF and LWF, but not whole assembly - which is "ROTATIONAL mass".





more here (towards end of the page):
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...-thread-4.html




According to factory DWF can go over 2 clutches (and then you have to ditch it for real ), so if your clutch is going you can get away with Sachs clutch kit for $700, instead of paying $2+K for light weight kit.

I did LWF upgrade, but it was cause I had everything apart and tax return to burn

Oleg.
Old 08-27-2015, 03:02 AM
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fluxdon
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Originally Posted by perelet
According to factory DWF can go over 2 clutches (and then you have to ditch it for real ), so if your clutch is going you can get away with Sachs clutch kit for $700, instead of paying $2+K for light weight kit.

I did LWF upgrade, but it was cause I had everything apart and tax return to burn

Oleg.
Well thatīs the thing. If I am going for a service with valve adjustment plus change of clutch I would save time in labor by dropping the entire engine......at least thatīs what I was told.
Old 08-27-2015, 05:17 AM
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itsujack
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Originally Posted by fluxdon
Well thatīs the thing. If I am going for a service with valve adjustment plus change of clutch I would save time in labor by dropping the entire engine......at least thatīs what I was told.
That's true. I've had the C4 RS Clutch/LWF done at major service (valves etc) and will do the same for the C2 next major service.

With the C4 I tried without the SW chip for a while and had stalling only with AC on. Since chip installed, not once has it stalled.
Old 08-27-2015, 08:57 AM
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Amroth
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Originally Posted by perelet
Make it 4.5kg(10lb) . There's myth spread about weight where "tuners" advertise huge weight difference, but if you weight things, you'll realize that they quote weight difference between DWF and LWF, but not whole assembly - which is "ROTATIONAL mass".
I stand corrected then My mistake!

4.5kg is still alright though
Old 08-27-2015, 11:20 AM
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porsche mania
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Hi fluxdon, don't believe anyone that tells.you that 300 to 320 out of these engines is easy or cheap as its a load of crap. More power is great but to get those sort of numbers is gonna cost you a kidney at least. Mapping it for better fuel is a good place to start and will make the car nicer to drive but there's no way that and a maf sensor + cup pipe is going to give you any more than 20 bhp. The reason you like your friends sc 's throttle response is because of how much lighter the car is so that's where I would start. You can always put things back in if you go too far. You may not want a cup pipe if you remove the sound insulation on a daily driver! As for the clutch, it's a great mod but no fun in stop and go traffic, your left leg gets a serious work out! As for extra wear on the clutch I think this only happens as its so easy to over rev the car when setting off thus slipping the clutch more. Of all the mods I've done to mine the 150kg's I have removed have made the most difference.
Old 08-27-2015, 04:45 PM
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I'm also going with the RS lwfw on my current clutch replacement. At the same time engine out I'm having a valve adjustment, new plugs and wires, and a few other small things like engine and trans mounts. Pretty excited to feel how the car drives after this all wraps up.

I'll pick up a SW chip after I get a chance to experience any stalling if it happens. My car is not a daily driver btw.

Good luck!


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