Alex Sol

my 964 will not fully disengage.

i will fully depress the clutch pedal to the floor and still feels partially in gear... i can switch from 1st to 2nd and to reverse. by putting in 2nd then 1st seems to help or putting in 2nd then 1st then reverse... but as soon as i put in reverse, it feels like the car is starting to back up... because it is doing so ever so slightly.

after doing some searches, i have found that it could be:

1. clutch - mine has low miles recently replaced
2. clutch slave - new
3. clutch slave line - new
4. roll pin - will replace
5. fresh bleed - done with super blue dot 4... could this be an issue?
6. clutch master - i read that it could be filled with black goo even though the slave is bleeding nicely...

so the plan is to replace to the clutch master and roll pin with new...

any other suggestions and will this, along with fresh bleed help to 'bring up' the clutch engagement point?

prior to this the clutch would disengage about 50% the way down and same on way up.. now i am 100% down and not fully fully dis engaged...

because we use super blue for brakes (no longer available in most places), do you recommend the ate typ 200?

Rocket Rob

I would do the easy things first,

In order of cheap/easiest at the top
1) Check your clutch pedal roll pin. You may want to renew the pedal bushings too. Verify the clutch pedal roll pin hole angle.
2) Bleed the clutch
3) Replace the clutch slave cylinder & hose
4) Replace the clutch master

At this point, you have done everything outside of the transmission. Remove the engine/tranny and inspect the following
5) Your throwout arm and its bearings
6) Clean and lubricate the transmission input shaft replace the roll pin and bleed the hydraulics.

One question though, is this a new symptom or has it always been that way? The reason I asked, is I had a problem clutch and did all of the above including replacing the clutch itself and all of the other bell housing items. The root problem was my clutch pedal was incorrectly manufactured. The roll pin hole was drilled at the wrong angle.

https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...ake-pedal.html

Alex Sol

thanks Rob, i'll take your advice.

this is a new situation from when i last attached the transmission to the engine.

prior to this i had installed the fork and cross shaft without the bearings (not sure how i could forget) and ended up breaking the bell housing. got it aluminum welded, fitted back in and then re installed.

i had bled the slave and ended up blasting the rod out of the slave and tearing the boot so bought new. then replaced the slave hose.

i have never inspected the roll pin or master so i'll start there.

i can't believe that you would go through all that and find that the problem was due to a factory issue. how did you fix? how does your clutch feel now?

Rocket Rob

Glad to help. I ended up replacing the clutch pedal itself. The new one is definitely drilled at a different angle. That change transformed the pedal feel. It now feels like it does on my cabrio, only a bit heavier. My cab's clutch is stock and my coupe has a LWF with RS clutch.

Good luck with getting your issue resolved. Keep us posted.