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Replaced steering rack bushing, can't get aligned

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Old 07-02-2015, 07:37 PM
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DobermanDad
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Default Replaced steering rack bushing, can't get aligned

I just replaced my badly worn and old steering rack bushing with new poly / kevlar ones. I can't get the driver side to align to bolt it down. Passenger side will go right in. Is there some trick I'm missing here? Any advice would be appreciated.
Old 07-02-2015, 10:43 PM
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Goughary
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Default Replaced steering rack bushing, can't get aligned

Which bushings did you buy?
Old 07-02-2015, 11:23 PM
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Vandit
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Probably the poly ones off of eBay.

This is one of those projects that seems simple enough, then you run into this issue and you pretty much regret embarking on it in the first place.

Have patience. Maybe loosen the opposite side? Perhaps remove the bracket and thread the fasteners into the subframe by themselves for a sanity check on the threads.

Last edited by Vandit; 07-03-2015 at 12:23 AM.
Old 07-03-2015, 12:08 AM
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mike9186
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Use your jack to compress the bushing. They are designed for an extremely tight fit. If you search for the steering rack replacement DIY you will see the bushing needs compression.
Old 07-03-2015, 12:29 AM
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Mr.Alex
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Originally Posted by Vandit

This is one of those projects that seems simple enough, then you run into this issue and you pretty much regret embarking on it in the first place.
+964

Originally Posted by mike9186
Use your jack to compress the bushing. They are designed for an extremely tight fit. If you search for the steering rack replacement DIY you will see the bushing needs compression.
This is what you need to do. I hated myself as I was on my back cursing about, but I used a thin plank of wood on a jack to lightly compress the bushing and get thread the bolts in. Its not going to be ease even this way. I had the hold off a tiny millimeter and it wouldn't even budge inside. So I recommend to thread one in and then use the plank to budge it up slightly. Be careful not to overdue the jacking or you could hurt something. The other side was a bit tricker and I had to thread one in and use body weight to compress the bushing forward to thread the other in.
Old 07-03-2015, 01:24 PM
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Thank you for the help guys. Holy ****!

What a PITA, but I am victorious.

Yes, they are the ones on eBay. Good company, they are made in the USA and have good customer service.

Any, what I did was use ratchet straps to pull the rack into position. Wasn't easy, but worked. Also used the jack method too which helped me get the driver side started.

I hope to never have to do that again.

Think it's time for a drink.
Old 07-03-2015, 06:56 PM
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abarthguy
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A timely thread as my allignment guy said my rack bushings were old and causing the rack to move side to side.
I may just leave them alone for now......
Old 07-03-2015, 09:40 PM
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Amroth
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Hmmm. If I did the same thing would it eliminate the slight free play in the centre + the moaning and groaning as I turn the wheel at parking speeds?
Old 07-04-2015, 10:48 AM
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DobermanDad
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Originally Posted by abarthguy
A timely thread as my allignment guy said my rack bushings were old and causing the rack to move side to side.
I may just leave them alone for now......

It's not impossible, I'd change them if they are bad.

The trick is to get one bolt in tighten it down and the keep backing the bolt off and twisting the clamp, until you get the other side aligned.

In my case I did the back bolts first, and then did the fronts.

The wax on everything if found annoying. Makes everything slippery.

Does anyone know the torque for the bolts, so I can torque mine down? I've somehow managed to loose my shop manuals on my home computer.
Old 07-04-2015, 04:15 PM
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Rocket Rob
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Torque of the M8 bolts (steering rack to cross member) = 33 ft-lbs

Note: Normal M8 bolts use 17 ft-lbs. These are high tensile bolts.
Old 07-05-2015, 10:08 AM
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Gus
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Default Steering rack bushings

Read with interest - did you compare bushing you took out to bushings you are putting in? Same size and design?? - I have replaced mine with the blue poly and had no issues on the install. Did you clean all surfaces. Sorry for your trouble, but I don't understand. How long are the bolts - stock vs new replacements??
Old 07-05-2015, 12:53 PM
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DobermanDad
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I used the OEM bolts already on the clamps.

My old bushings were so worm there was really nothing to compare too. They were really smashed.

This being the first time I changed them, I don't think it'll take me so long next time.

Sounds like you got lucky to me.

Well, torqued everything down, cleaned the panel, and project done. Thank you for the help guys!
Old 07-05-2015, 01:50 PM
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Gus
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Originally Posted by DobermanDad
I used the OEM bolts already on the clamps.

My old bushings were so worm there was really nothing to compare too. They were really smashed.

This being the first time I changed them, I don't think it'll take me so long next time.

Sounds like you got lucky to me.

Well, torqued everything down, cleaned the panel, and project done. Thank you for the help guys!
I guess I did. Sorry you had problems. Good project though, know you will appreciate the improvement. Glad you wrapped the job up. Good job.
What's next - have you replaced front suspension bushing? Good info on site on doing this.
Old 07-05-2015, 03:33 PM
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DobermanDad
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Yeah, slowly going through it all. Sway bars are next. Got a c2 rear bar to install.
Old 07-05-2015, 08:21 PM
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Goughary
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Default Replaced steering rack bushing, can't get aligned

Originally Posted by DobermanDad
Yeah, slowly going through it all. Sway bars are next. Got a c2 rear bar to install.
Rear bar will take you 15mins. Front is a bitch.
Make sure you have new hardware and new oem bushings for the rear sway. I recommend not using poly bushings for the swaybar unless you use graphite impregnated ones, cuz they will just likely squeak if you don't use rubber.

Btw- you don't need new hardware of yours are clean...but mine, they were rusty nasty dirty. So switching them out along with the bushings and end links was a good idea...


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