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I have now had my 964 for a few months now and am slowly trying to get her sorted out. So far Rennlist has been a big help.
When I first got the car It started no problem but had a terrible idle issue. I imagine someone had put a LWF in it plus an generic performance chip and attempted to modify the ISV(by drilling a screw through it). On top of all that I got the Christmas tree dash lights.
So I replaced the Chip with a Steve Wong chip, replaced the ISV with a new one, and replaced the Coils, Wires, Plugs, rotors, Caps.
Also removed the G pipe and put the stock mufflers on.
Christmas tree lights disappeared and reved up much smoother, idled perfectly and drove wonderfully for a few days. Now I am getting an intermittent stalling issue at red lights and yesterday it would die right after I started it. I had to start her with ¼ throttle just to get her to stay on. But once I did that, it idled fine and I drove it around for an hour trying to get it to replicate the stalling issue but nothing.
Took a look at the DME relay and it appears to be the older version. so I have placed an order for a new DME relay and a fuel filter.
Any idea on what else it could be? I purchased Adrian's book and it suggested Fuel pump issue?
2nd question I have is regarding the Brakes. It looks like one of the previous owners replaced the front and rear brakes with ‘big reds’ The brakes are working fine but the pedal is very firm and does not travel much. Is this the way it is supposed to be? Does a master cylinder need to be replaced with this mod?
Your brake pedal should be firm and so long as your pedal is firm and you have a good bite, I would say likelihood (without feeling it myself) is that your brakes are fine...
On the stalling issue. Check to see your air filter has been changed recently, fuel filter changed recently...either would cause issues like this, and due to our old fuel lines and so much ethanol going into our gas....fuel filters get clogged easily as the ethanol corodes the lines.
Outside that. When was the last time your dissy caps and rotors were changed? And then also put a multimeter on your ignition cables one by one and do a resistance check. You should read at or close to 3 ohm on each. You may find that some are not, and you may be getting weak spark at idle when the amps coming out of the alternator are lower.
Also if you have a single belt pulley conversion, go back to dual belt for the above amperage issue. You don't get enough amps out of the alternator till over 3k rpm with the single belt conversion which is fine for track but not the best for the street.
Your brake pedal should be firm and so long as your pedal is firm and you have a good bite, I would say likelihood (without feeling it myself) is that your brakes are fine...
On the stalling issue. Check to see your air filter has been changed recently, fuel filter changed recently...either would cause issues like this, and due to our old fuel lines and so much ethanol going into our gas....fuel filters get clogged easily as the ethanol corodes the lines.
Outside that. When was the last time your dissy caps and rotors were changed? And then also put a multimeter on your ignition cables one by one and do a resistance check. You should read at or close to 3 ohm on each. You may find that some are not, and you may be getting weak spark at idle when the amps coming out of the alternator are lower.
Also if you have a single belt pulley conversion, go back to dual belt for the above amperage issue. You don't get enough amps out of the alternator till over 3k rpm with the single belt conversion which is fine for track but not the best for the street.
Sorry just noticed that you replaced plugs wires and caps...skip that last comment of mine.
The fact that it ran ok once hot says to me that the mixture is too lean on cold starts, (too much air) which translates to a vacuum leak somewhere. By giving it 1/4 throttle when starting, you are giving the car additional fuel to compensate for the unmetered air. Once she warms up, the DME defaults to a leaner map, and your DME has the ability to compensate for the vacuum leak.
Update: changed the fuel filter and DME relay yesterday and the car feels like it gained 100 more hp.
It's idling very stable now. Thank you for all the help. I'm really starting to fall in love with this car. Very unique driving experience. KW v3 go in on Monday along with new Wevo mounts and new tires =)
Have enjoyed the car for about a month now and new issues have started. Struggle to keep her running after start up. If she does decide to stay on things calm down once she properly warms up, perfect idle and driving. Every once in a while she will lose power on the highway and feel like dying. I've tsted to make sure the Dizzy belt is fine and I've ordered a cylinder head temperature sensor. Anything else you guys can think of while I wait for the Temp sensor? Could it be O2 or something else?
When you are having this problem I would recommend removing the air filter and (using a mirror and flashlight?) look to see if the AFM is partially open and stuck.
When you are having this problem I would recommend removing the air filter and (using a mirror and flashlight?) look to see if the AFM is partially open and stuck.
Good luck.
Thank you MMthorn,
I replaced the Cylinder head temperature sensor and cleaned up the inside of the AFM (it was a bit dirty in there) and the car has a strong steady 900rpm idle now, no dip or anything. I went from ready to give up to very happy this weekend.
You may find that the problem returns. I don't know if other folks have encountered this issue but if you are out on the road enjoying a drive and the problem returns remove the air filter and wiggle the AFM back and forth. (i.e. Loosen it up again) Keep us posted.
05-25-2015, 11:42 AM
1990 c2 idle stall help
