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Well I am finally starting to pull the engine for the upcoming rebuild. This process will be kind of long as I am going to do quite a few things while I am in there. The engine will be rebuilt in Raleigh, NC, so I will be tearing down the motor to just the case/cylinders/heads. I went ahead and pulled everything off top since I was going to do that anyway and it should making clearing under the car easier.
My goal is not to add really any performance, however to make sure it is built for longevity. I may add the LWF though.
At this point, I am not sure till European Performance tears it down. I hope that I do not have to cut many corners. Plan to keep it stock but will go with strengthened parts where possible. I only do an occasional DE so do not plan to go crazy like going to a GT3 oil pump.
I will probably make sure all oil hoses are in good shape. I am going with a new front oil cooler as mine did not seem to cool to well.
Thanks. I am not going to do the serious work myself but will have many side projects. Working on PDAS slave cylinder seals now. One was leaking, but will do both.
I've rebuilt a number of engines and am considering , that when the time comes on my 964, just to buy a rebuilt long block from one of the suppliers. Maybe I'm getting old, but doing all the work, plus the machine cost on a 911, kinda takes my love of wrenching away. For instance, Vertexauto just advertised a rebuilt long block for our 964s at $11,999. I put almost that much is parts and machine work on a 1967 911s. Plus doing all the tear down and assembling myself. Any thoughts?
As for Duck's concern regarding a possible crack, I would be carefull. Your shop can tell you if it is a crack and not an assemble mold mark. If it is, it can be welded and the case checked for correct alignment. I'm not a machine shop guy but have had repairs done on cases.
My 91 C2 has 168K miles. Main reason I need to tear it down is the massive oil leaks. I have rebuilt lots of engines, but time is hard to set aside.
The biggest cost is the cylinders and pistons. I just resealed a 944 T engine that was within wear spec for the piston wear. So if I am within the wear spec, the cylinders can stay. Do not know how the cams hold up on these engines. But certainly all the cam drive chains have to go.
Cylinder heads can probably be reworked, with guide inserts. Valve cover, do not know?
Hey, Alan. My 91 C2 has a bit over 141,000 miles and as of yet drives strong, passes California smog, doesn't use oil, no smoke and very small oil drip. If it goes to 168k I'll be happy. Was your engine still performing well, not considering the oil leaks? I am wondering just how long the typical 964 engine can go before it no longer passes smog and drops in performance?
Regarding oil leaks. I have always run Mobile One in my 964. However, when I run a synthentic oil in my older Porsches, they leak like a sieve. Based on investigation and some mechanic's recommendation, I now use a multi-grade (DELO) diesel oil for these early cars. The leaks stopped. However, cars with catalytic convertors should not use diesel oils as I understand those oils will do detrimental damage to the convertors. So here is the question: on high milage engines can a switch from synthetic to conventional automobile multi-grade oils curtail engine leaks in our 964? What advantage does a synthetic oil have over modern regular oils on these high milage engines?
05-23-2015, 08:25 AM
Engine Rebuild
