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I did a quick search and couldn't find a link. I am going to flush the brake fluid and it is recommended to bleed the clutch at the same time. Is there a link or, if not, how do you bleed the clutch? Thanks, Scott
Same as brakes. Need a power bleeder. Nipple on the slave cyl on top of transmission. Get your arm up there and feel around. Should be a few threads about this. It's easy. You may want to buy a new rubber line as they don't last forever and let in small amounts of air.
Make sure the reservoir is topped up, it's really easy to get air in the clutch circuit. Make sure you clamp off the overflow softline near the reservoir otherwise you'll never build PSI on your power bleeder. The bleed nipple on the slave cylinder is 7mm.
Make sure the reservoir is topped up, it's really easy to get air in the clutch circuit. Make sure you clamp off the overflow softline near the reservoir otherwise you'll never build PSI on your power bleeder. The bleed nipple on the slave cylinder is 7mm.
Good tips! The space is limited which means you cant easily go from fully closed to open with one sweep of a standard spanner before it hits stuff and you cant easily slide it off the nipple if you are using a drain tube of some sort. I thinned the end of my spanner so I could easily slip it off the nut area of the nipple and rotate it before sliding it back onto the nut to nip it tight/loosen it further, you could probably chop the spanner in half to increase the amount it can rotate instead if you would prefer.
Plan B if you are having no luck in the space is to remove the slave from the gearbox and bleed it where you have more space since its connected to the car with a rubber hose but beware it can be a right fight to refit it sometimes.
It's not hard to do, as has been said. I found however that I needed to run a lot of fluid through the Slave to get it running clean and clear, so you might want to use your motive bleeder wet rather than dry. And in that case, be sure to protect your frunk in the event the cap pops. But wet bleeding is very helpful so you don't introduce air to the system...
It's not hard to do, as has been said. I found however that I needed to run a lot of fluid through the Slave to get it running clean and clear, so you might want to use your motive bleeder wet rather than dry. And in that case, be sure to protect your frunk in the event the cap pops. But wet bleeding is very helpful so you don't introduce air to the system...
^^^ This x2 ^^^
I'll second that, I found it much easier to wet bleed it and not introducing air into the system.
I've found that it can take a few tries to get all of the air out. I've had issues in the past where I think that I've done it correctly but the clutch pedal goes to the floor. Top up the fluid and bleed it again until the pedal comes back.
You need to get the wrench on by feel as you can't see it when you have your arm in there.
Also don't forget to remove the 7mm wrench, ask me how I know!
My setup is bit different of course, given the Tilton clutch and annular bearing, but...
I've long wondered why not run a bleed line from the slave up through and into the engine bay. I ran mine all the way to the top of the engine (adjacent to the fan shroud and clamped there) and simply bleed standing up from there. It is so simple I bleed the clutch each brake bleed; for me, every ten hours.
Bleeding the slave cylinder with also give you a good indication of whether you need a new slave cylinder or not. When I first did mine, no fluid came out at all.
Access is a real pain but not really hard. It is one of those area that you can look at or get your hands on but not both at the same time. I like to use a closed end wrench on the bleed nipple because you can let it hang while bleeding and then it is much easier to get it closed when done.
The only thing I had to do on the brake caliper bleeder nipples was to use a socket to get them loose..flare wrenches and box ends didn't have enough bite.
I just want to reiterate what others have said...top up your reservoir.
I recently did mine and only filled the fluid to the MAX line. I did not realize just how high the pickup for the clutch system is in the reservoir. I found out the hard way and introduced air into the system.
So, I would fill the fluid to the brim (when using power bleeder, dry method).
I always do this with the car on jack stands, but I heard once that if you jack the rear of the car and take the wheel off to bleed the clutch slave, you can't get all the air out since the angle of the slave is wrong. Rear of the slave is higher than the bleeder... Since we are discussing tips and tricks, is there any truth to that?
It's not hard to do, as has been said. I found however that I needed to run a lot of fluid through the Slave to get it running clean and clear, so you might want to use your motive bleeder wet rather than dry. And in that case, be sure to protect your frunk in the event the cap pops. But wet bleeding is very helpful so you don't introduce air to the system...
Good tips in this thread and +1 on using the power bleeder wet. If you do it dry and open the slave for too many seconds you will get air. Ask me how I know. I will do it wet next time AND top up first. Next time I might also break it up into 2 or three sessions of bleeding with a pause to depress clutch a dozen or so times to agitate the new fluid around the dirty surfaces before continuing.
Worth reading Workshop manuals on subject matter. If return line pinched off and power bleeder attached, you need to know when and when not it is okay to pump pedals during various steps system wide.
02-09-2015, 12:43 AM
How do you bleed the clutch
