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Are you saying it is now cutting out even with revs? If so, doubt adpatation will make any difference... would be likely either fuel related (pump?) or since everything was ok before, bad earth to battery neg cable... worth checking.
I was able to limp it to my mechanic, car stalled approximately 20 times in the 20km journey (mostly freeway thankfully). Coming to a stop at a set of lights was a delicate balance of slowing, applying the clutch and giving it enough revs to avoid a stall. Had to hold the revs at around 1200RPM while stationary otherwise it would stall before the lights would go green.
An adaption got me back on the road and the car is now drivable again.
Will install a new O2 and ISV once they arrive, if the problem still persists, time to take it into the mechanic for some proper troubleshoot.
I replaced the Idle Control Valve (or ISV) which has mostly corrected the hard start problem and last week and I changed the O2 sensor.
Unfortunately when connecting the battery back, the idle settings were lost and I had a hunting idle that rendered the car undriveable (as had happened the last time I disconnected the negative terminal).
An idle-adaption fixed the problem last time but I had to drive around with the O2 unplugged to regain any driveability which seriously hampered performance.
After installing the new O2, connecting the battery and the idle being all over the shop, I went back to my mechanic for another idle-adaption but it would not take.
I got my hands on a BergvillFX adapter and downloaded the software this morning, ran the tests and was able to perform an adaption eventually after multiple refusals as per photo below.
There is still idle drop when coming to a halt, I'm thinking the new ISV and O2 sensor have not fixed any problem other than the cold hard start (which still is not 100% perfect).
The diagnostic from the Bergvill has identified some underlying issues which I was hoping the new ISV or O2 would cure but alas, there remains still an intake problem.
Here are the photos of my diagnostic, can anyone with some experience translate these figures for me or offer some advice?
There was talk above about fuel regulators, etc but the error code is pointing towards intake (air leak).
Count me in for having the same issues now. Car was running fine, and started to feel like it was running on 5 of 6 cylinders under load. Got it home, and the hot idle hunted all over the place until it stalled. I've been attempting to do an adaptation with the scantool but keep getting an error. I have checked the outputs and the idle microswitch shows ON and engine temp was at 117. I'm not sure what temperature constitutes "at running temperature" but my oil temp was warm enough to have opened the thermostat and then some (just at first dash on gauge). FWIW, I was successful in performing an adaptation this spring. Now I'm getting the same O2 (air leak) error code #23.
I ended up giving up on the self-diagnose approach and took it to my mechanic.
They started with an AFM calibration by a specialist which helped but wasn't the fix.
Reconfigured the Idle Micro Switch after a past mechanic had molested it, again helped but not it.
Checked for all air leaks, etc, everything was OK there.
Plugged in another ECU and the idle improved so they sent the ECU to the same specialist and some changes were made to match a test ECU and the result is now an even better car to drive with a strong idle, starts first go every time, etc.
So basically my underlying problem was with the ECU.
While it was in there, had a major service done including tappet adjustment, plugs, dizzie caps and rotors, all oils and fluids, etc, etc.
01-30-2015, 06:38 AM
