Need Advice on how to remove clutch fork pivot rod
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Need Advice on how to remove clutch fork pivot rod
After a long break I'm back on the project.
Engine rebuild time: Step 1 - Separating the transmission.
I'm stuck on removing clutch fork pivot rod. I have removed the keeper plate and the first needle bearing. Pulling by hand had absolutely no effect so next I have tried:
1. Lots of liquid wrench/WD-40 - NO GO!
2. Threaded long M6 hardened steel rod, receiver tube and a M6 nuts in hopes that I can pull it by tightening the nuts (simple, done it several times on other projects). Well, I'm sheering the threads on the nuts. 6 nuts gone. NO GO!
3. Used heavy weighted puller rod, been hitting it for over an hour. NO GO!
Things I want to try:
1. Thread in a class 10 M6 bolt and hit t with an impact gun in hopes that it will spin inside the fork and make it easier for penetrating oil to get in. Then pull it.
2. Remove it with pressure plate and take the transmission to a friendly mechanic that can cut the fork out. In that case, what is the best way to spin the flywheel?
I'm really stuck on that, any help much appreciated.
Engine rebuild time: Step 1 - Separating the transmission.
I'm stuck on removing clutch fork pivot rod. I have removed the keeper plate and the first needle bearing. Pulling by hand had absolutely no effect so next I have tried:
1. Lots of liquid wrench/WD-40 - NO GO!
2. Threaded long M6 hardened steel rod, receiver tube and a M6 nuts in hopes that I can pull it by tightening the nuts (simple, done it several times on other projects). Well, I'm sheering the threads on the nuts. 6 nuts gone. NO GO!
3. Used heavy weighted puller rod, been hitting it for over an hour. NO GO!
Things I want to try:
1. Thread in a class 10 M6 bolt and hit t with an impact gun in hopes that it will spin inside the fork and make it easier for penetrating oil to get in. Then pull it.
2. Remove it with pressure plate and take the transmission to a friendly mechanic that can cut the fork out. In that case, what is the best way to spin the flywheel?
I'm really stuck on that, any help much appreciated.
#3
Racer
been there in november ended up undoing the presure plate to seperate box so could get on with the rebuild still got to get the shaft out ,a friend has made a small slide hammer but not had chance to use it yet .How did you remove the bearing .
#4
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Transmission separated! Went the pressure plate route.
I used small probe pick to get hold of the bearing collar from inside (where you thread the the pivot rod).
One last thing I will try to use is 1in rod coupling nut instead of regular nuts. Will update on the progress. Also, applying heat while doing it may help move things.
Thanks!
Andrew
I used small probe pick to get hold of the bearing collar from inside (where you thread the the pivot rod).
One last thing I will try to use is 1in rod coupling nut instead of regular nuts. Will update on the progress. Also, applying heat while doing it may help move things.
Thanks!
Andrew
#7
Three Wheelin'
I aimed a mapp gas torch around the pivot rod. Combined with over an hour of tugging on the threaded bolt, it finally came free. Absolutely the most annoying part of the entire rebuild.
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#9
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
MAP gas and 5lbs sliding hammer is next on my list. Just waiting on weather to get better. Its -30C here and even thou my garage is insulated I haven't put the heater in yet. Soo pretty cold in there.
#10
Rennlist Member
Tried that 2 times for an hour 2 days in a row. No movement at all.
MAP gas and 5lbs sliding hammer is next on my list. Just waiting on weather to get better. Its -30C here and even thou my garage is insulated I haven't put the heater in yet. Soo pretty cold in there.
MAP gas and 5lbs sliding hammer is next on my list. Just waiting on weather to get better. Its -30C here and even thou my garage is insulated I haven't put the heater in yet. Soo pretty cold in there.
Good luck.
#12
Rennlist Member
Old trick for small pilot bearings. If you can find a steel rod or drift that fits tight in the bore, pack the hole with a sticky high viscosity grease, wheel bearing will generally work. set the case on a wood block to firmly support the back, put the rod in the hole and hit it with a hammer. The hydraulic force will force the sleeve out. The rod has to fit tight in the bore and make sure that you are getting the hydraulic resistance and not bottoming out the rod, don't damage your case.
#14
Three Wheelin'
Good man! As the final option, getting medieval rarely fails to reap a reward
So in your picture, was it the right hand end of the shaft that was stuck in the gearbox? or was the shaft stuck in the fork?
It's funny, of all the problems you can anticipate up front in jobs like this, it never fails to surprise how the simplist of steps can hang you up for many hours. Hopefully it didn't pi$$ you off. This kind of stuff is half the fun of ownership for me
So in your picture, was it the right hand end of the shaft that was stuck in the gearbox? or was the shaft stuck in the fork?
It's funny, of all the problems you can anticipate up front in jobs like this, it never fails to surprise how the simplist of steps can hang you up for many hours. Hopefully it didn't pi$$ you off. This kind of stuff is half the fun of ownership for me
#15
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
The shaft was stuck in the fork. Once the shaft was in the mid point (in the picture) I cleaned the surfaces and removed it completely without a difficulty.
I'm not put off by this at all. Engine disassembly this weekend
I'm not put off by this at all. Engine disassembly this weekend