favourite mods and least favourite mods
#32
Race Car
Mf_rsr, just for giggles, stick a multi meter on your battery just before you make the change, measure the voltage and amperage at 1k, 2k, 3k and 4k rpm. If you find that it's way lower below 3k and all the same above 3k, you will notice the difference. This was my experience.
As to throttle response, I was getting a weak spark at below 3k rpm, so the throttle response issue was only when the revs were low. And the driveability issues were only noticeable in "around town" type driving, anywhere where the car was naturally at below 3k rpm. But do a test with yours and see if you end up w the same issue.
Also, I have the single belt pulley that needs a home, so if you are looking to upgrade and if you are in the states, pm me if you want to buy mine. We made a nifty pulley reinforcement as well that I will send along with it.
As to throttle response, I was getting a weak spark at below 3k rpm, so the throttle response issue was only when the revs were low. And the driveability issues were only noticeable in "around town" type driving, anywhere where the car was naturally at below 3k rpm. But do a test with yours and see if you end up w the same issue.
Also, I have the single belt pulley that needs a home, so if you are looking to upgrade and if you are in the states, pm me if you want to buy mine. We made a nifty pulley reinforcement as well that I will send along with it.
#33
Thanks for the offer goughry...im in the UK however. I'll try and get some details from rob and gary as well. A key development area for me is actually low down throttle response and speed...so VRAM, valves and cams are on the menu at some point. I was concerned when I read your post but as ever there appears to be conflicting views....
#34
A lot of good suggestions here. I'm going to say that overhauling both front control arm bushings was a really nice improvement in terms of feel. Steering is a bit tighter, and on the twisties, the car seems more poised.
H4's should be a must if you drive at night, plus they really suit the car in terms of looks, whereas the H5's look really outdated after age.
H4's should be a must if you drive at night, plus they really suit the car in terms of looks, whereas the H5's look really outdated after age.
#35
Burning Brakes
Headlight relays, coupled with the H 4's. Best bang for the buck, the relays.
Bosch lens, if available.
Canadian content, re: H 4's - the bonus of city lights, such that you do not have to use the fogs for DRL's.
Bosch lens, if available.
Canadian content, re: H 4's - the bonus of city lights, such that you do not have to use the fogs for DRL's.
#36
RL Technical Advisor
Yes, thats correct.
The factory did make some very special close-ratio gears for the 964 C4 Lightweight rally car, but these are VERY VERY difficult & expensive to acquire and the gear choices were quite limited.
The factory did make some very special close-ratio gears for the 964 C4 Lightweight rally car, but these are VERY VERY difficult & expensive to acquire and the gear choices were quite limited.
#37
Burning Brakes
Another one running with a single belt and no problems.
I am not sure why this would cause a problem when it works just fine on the RS? The only electrical differences are the RS having a smaller battery! and the lack of a heated rear screen.
I am not sure why this would cause a problem when it works just fine on the RS? The only electrical differences are the RS having a smaller battery! and the lack of a heated rear screen.
#38
Rennlist Member
I got the 8:37's from Weissach!!!!!!
Paolo
#39
Burning Brakes
#40
Rennlist Member
#41
Burning Brakes
#44
RL Technical Advisor
We recently re-geared a genuine factory C4 Lightweight and that's how I found out those cars had different close-ratio gears, not the street C4 ones.
#45