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When first starting my 964 C4 Cab will NOT go into reverse or first

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Old 07-25-2014, 02:32 AM
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PeterMcD
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Default When first starting my 964 C4 Cab will NOT go into reverse or first

Hi There,

Well ... this has been an interesting development for me. It seems that when I first start my 964 C4 Cab after sitting overnight ... it will NOT go into reverse or first, and will only go into 5th, 4th and 3rd with some struggle. However, once I finally get it into gear and drive for a little bit (say 10 minutes) all is well and she is a happy 964.

This is my first year with her and this is a new twist. Clutch doesn't slip in any gear, lots of traction, crisp shifts (when warmed up) ... just does not want to go into gear in the mornings. I am 6'1" at 260lbs and I can't (well don't really want to) force it into gear.

Could this be indicative of needing to bleed the brake fluid and replace with new fluid (dunno when that was last done)?

Any thoughts/suggestions would be appreciated.

Peter
Old 07-25-2014, 06:50 AM
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Feudal Serf
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Originally Posted by PeterMcD
Hi There, Well ... this has been an interesting development for me. It seems that when I first start my 964 C4 Cab after sitting overnight ... it will NOT go into reverse or first, and will only go into 5th, 4th and 3rd with some struggle. However, once I finally get it into gear and drive for a little bit (say 10 minutes) all is well and she is a happy 964. This is my first year with her and this is a new twist. Clutch doesn't slip in any gear, lots of traction, crisp shifts (when warmed up) ... just does not want to go into gear in the mornings. I am 6'1" at 260lbs and I can't (well don't really want to) force it into gear. Could this be indicative of needing to bleed the brake fluid and replace with new fluid (dunno when that was last done)? Any thoughts/suggestions would be appreciated. Peter
Hey Peter
Clutch first, any issues? Inconsistent engagement point? You can bleed the line at the slave, best to have a motiv pressure bleeder. But if no issues noticed I would check shift rod linkages first.

Shift linkages. While sitting in drivers seat, is there any slop or play in the gear lever? Try pulling the shift **** up to identify any slack. Next inspect under tunnel panel, remove long center tunnel cover with the car on lift or jack stands. Inspect plastic bushings for play. You can disconnect the linkage at the transmission and try to engage first or reverse there. This is where you hope the problem lies, it's common and simple fix.

If that doesn't sort your problem, I would bleed the system.

After that you are looking inside tranny. You have a c4, so something like a planetary gear failure is possible or shift fork inside.
Changing the trans fluid would be wise before you open your wallet too wide.

Good luck
FS
Old 07-25-2014, 07:30 AM
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Does the gearbox engage 1st & reverse with the engine switched off? If it does you are suffering with clutch drag, either from a faulty clutch or hydraulic issue.
Old 07-28-2014, 12:10 AM
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PeterMcD
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Hi FS, Hi NineMeister,

ok ... no inconsistent clutch engagement ... no slop or play in linkage. So will look further into bushings. Odd that the clutch works fine and shifts smoothly after about 15 minutes of run time.

Ninemeister ... what do you mean "clutch drag"? IS that the clutch not disengaging completely?

And FS .. where in Newfoundland? I have friends in Twillingate and Lewsiport.

I thank both of you for your suggestions and insight.
Old 07-29-2014, 10:17 PM
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Hey

So the car shifts fine after its warmed up.
I presume you park it and leave it in first, then start it with clutch in then drive to warm it up.

As ninemeister says, clutch or hydraulics.

Hydraulics can be air in the line, a worn out slave, master or bulging soft lines or a leak somewhere.

Keep in mind the hydraulics for the clutch are fed by a line high in the brake fluid reservoir. If this gets low you will get air in your clutch line.

Did u bleed brakes recently?

Have you adjusted the clutch pedal at the foot board? If so you can change the travel in the master and there can be crud where the seal passes over and impairs the hydraulics.

Has there been any service or work done recently that could affect this?

New exhaust work. Anything at all that can point you in a direction to investigate further.

You arent grinding gears? Doesnt sound like syncros, but cant rule it out.

The shift linkages are plastic and if they havnt been replaced, look them over, pull them apart.
If you can shift into first and reverse at the transmission with linkage disconnected when she is cold, you have confirmed your problem.

If no leads, flush hydraulics at slave, and change tranny fluid. No change, then your into a clutch job.

Good luck and keep updating the thread.

Cheers
FS
Old 07-30-2014, 09:01 AM
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Please don't start our cars with the clutch dis-engaged (i.e. with the pedal in).

Put the gearbox in neutral, keep the clutch engaged (pedal out) and start the car.
Old 07-30-2014, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by KaiB
Please don't start our cars with the clutch dis-engaged (i.e. with the pedal in).

Put the gearbox in neutral, keep the clutch engaged (pedal out) and start the car.
Could you explain why?
Old 07-30-2014, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by PhatPhlatSix
Could you explain why?
At the business end of the crankshaft a thrust bearing is installed. This bearing controls the longitudinal play of the crank (north-south).

When we depress the clutch pedal, the fork pulls the pressure plate spring to release pressure at the clutch assy. which in turn pulls the crank against the main bearing thrust surface. The higher the pressure plate clamping force the higher the thrust load.

Cold engine, zero oil pressure, additional stress on the bearing....all easily avoided by merely starting the car in neutral.

Growing up and driving old trucks I formed the habit of starting with the clutch dis-engaged as the extra drag would often be too much. Steve Weiner (bless his little heart) broke me of this habit in a hurry after explaining the above to me.

Cheers...
Old 07-30-2014, 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by KaiB
At the business end of the crankshaft a thrust bearing is installed. This bearing controls the longitudinal play of the crank (north-south).

When we depress the clutch pedal, the fork pulls the pressure plate spring to release pressure at the clutch assy. which in turn pulls the crank against the main bearing thrust surface. The higher the pressure plate clamping force the higher the thrust load.

Cold engine, zero oil pressure, additional stress on the bearing....all easily avoided by merely starting the car in neutral.

Growing up and driving old trucks I formed the habit of starting with the clutch dis-engaged as the extra drag would often be too much. Steve Weiner (bless his little heart) broke me of this habit in a hurry after explaining the above to me.

Cheers...
Very interesting. It's a pity most modern manual cars won't let you start the engine unless the clutch pedal is depressed...
Old 08-17-2017, 03:20 PM
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bisset
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Originally Posted by PeterMcD
Hi There,

Well ... this has been an interesting development for me. It seems that when I first start my 964 C4 Cab after sitting overnight ... it will NOT go into reverse or first, and will only go into 5th, 4th and 3rd with some struggle. However, once I finally get it into gear and drive for a little bit (say 10 minutes) all is well and she is a happy 964.

This is my first year with her and this is a new twist. Clutch doesn't slip in any gear, lots of traction, crisp shifts (when warmed up) ... just does not want to go into gear in the mornings. I am 6'1" at 260lbs and I can't (well don't really want to) force it into gear.

Could this be indicative of needing to bleed the brake fluid and replace with new fluid (dunno when that was last done)?

Any thoughts/suggestions would be appreciated.

Peter
Hey, Peter. Did you ever figure out a solution to this? I just started experiencing these same symptoms (difficulty engaging 1rst/reverse from a cold start, which goes away after short time driving) on my 964 C4 Cab as well. In my case the car does go into gear easily when the engine is off as well.

Last edited by bisset; 08-17-2017 at 03:27 PM. Reason: added information
Old 08-23-2017, 11:11 AM
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Richard Curtis
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Replace shifter bushings. Inexpensive fix if you DIY, but not much either if you pay a mechanic to do it.
Old 08-23-2017, 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by bisset
In my case the car does go into gear easily when the engine is off as well.
It sounds like you have a clutch issue. I would first try bleeding the clutch slave and also inspect your clutch pedal roll pin.



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