Vandit

I've never seen those. Those might work, at least to get it off w/ a wrench or a couple of interlocked wrenches for more leverage. If you can't get enough clearance, you can move the gearbox as Thomas suggested. Hopefully the bit side of things isn't stubby too, as you want max insertion of the bit to prevent stripping the head.

tfitch03

Awesome! Thanks for taking the time to write that up and take all the pictures. Very informative. I guess I will drop mine off with you this December and I will swing by around March to pick it up...thanks!

Vandit

I don't think I compensated for the lack of a Weissach effect, but my prior experience driving the hot mess car influenced my conservative rear toe setting.

You can read through my thought process on my alignment settings here, reply #2.
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...and-setup.html

Vandit

lol, I tell you man, i'm slow slow slow when it comes to these DIY projects.

ThomasC2

I didn't do any extra in the rear regarding toe in. The thing with these spring plates is just the thing that you get rid of the Weissach effect which makes the car more predictable under load. The toe angles now stay as they are. I feel my rear end is clearly more stable and linear in high speed corners especially in the mid corner sections. I also replaced the outer rubber bushings so the result is probably a mix of both these changes, but the rear end handles much better now.

Thomas

dave964diver

Nice thread Vandit. Will definitely be referring to it when I refurb my suspension in the winter. Incidentally did you bond the powerflex bushes into the a arm and rear swing arms?

Vandit

I did not bond the outer poly bushing to the arms. When you first insert the bushing only into the arm (dry, no grease), it is a light pressed fit, but once you insert the inner metal piece (greased) into the poly bushing, it expands the poly in the arm and holds the bush in place. At least that's the concept and what I observed.

wilson234

Where does one find the technical manual in your photo with the torque specs. I could use one of those for future planned projects.

And nice write-up!!

Vandit

I bought the book off a local PCA guy and former 964 owner. It's by Bentley Publishing, coil binding, and titled 964 Techncal Data.

I believe this is the latest version of the same book. Someone else, please confirm?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/083760...&robot_redir=1

The Stig

That's the one. I have it too. Very handy. Great work, Vandit.

Earlydays

There is also this one...a Porsche publication
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Henrik964

Great thread, nice work and documentation!

RSAErick

Awesome write-up, Vandit. But could you please share with me the incredible technique that you used which allows you to get the rubber off of the arms this well? I have been scraping and cutting rubber for an eternity, and I'm not even close to looking half this good. What is your fantastic secret?!?!

Thank you!

Vandit

Sharp blade and I think I was applying some paint thinner too in hope of softening the rubber. Toward the end, I used something like 100 grit to knock off any rubber remnants.

fasterlaster

When I tackle this I'll know more, but I've had very good luck getting rubbery crap off of metal using lacquer thinner, it works better than paint thinner.