RSAErick

Awesome documentation! Thank you for another fantastic contribution. Hopefully, I'll be doing some of this same work in the next month or so, and this is exactly the information that I needed.

Sorry to hear what you had to go through with the rear spring plates, and subsequent alignment. That sucks. How could Tarret get this wrong? Anyway, your experience will save me (and countless Rennlisters) the same hassle and cost.

One question.... Did you ever search for a commercial source of a hex tool that would remove the spring plate? I don't have a dad that can weld me a custom tool.

Thank you!

Rephlex

Fascinating and highly impressive!

964Lovac

Great stuff, thanks for documenting your work so well for us!

Car is looking top too!

ThomasC2

Nice work! I have done all this and then some more stuff but not at the same time! I learned about the spirng plates in another thread here so I didn't have to do that mistake. But I fully understand how transformed the car feels. These things makes all the difference.

Thomas

Vandit

I didn't buy the plates from Tarett, and Tarett doesn't manufacture them, but I used the info off of their site as my guide. In the end, they confirmed that the info on their site was wrong (it has since been corrected) and that it was misinformation that came to them from the manufacture of the plates. Oh well. At least it's sorted now for future 964 users running these plates.

There are official Porsche tools for this job.

Special tool # 9299 - 000.721.929.90 - "Screw-in adapter" basically a 12MM to 22MM adapter, prices out at over $60 from Pelican.
Special tool # 9299/1 - 000.721.929.91 - "Ratchet torque adapter" looks like a torque extension, has a 22MM on one side and a female 1/2" drive on the other.

Per ThomasC2 (just posted above), he was able to get it done by loosening the transaxle and temporarily shifting it over 15-20mm to create clearance. So that's another route you can take.

ThomasC2

Vandit probably means the same thing but my car is a C2 so maybe transaxel isn't the correct word. So in order not to confuse anyone I removed the four bolts holding the tranny mount and the pushed the gearbox sideways. This was enough for getting my tourqe wrench with a 12 mm allen bit in place. To undo it I did a similiar tool as in this thread.

In the end I don't now how important it is to achive exactly 200 Nm. I've worked a lot on my car and how now learned that 200 Nm, and being under or on the floor i.e is more or less exaktly what I manage to pull. When I'm "out of power" aprrox 200 Nm it is. So the bolts for the spring plates I could have "torqued" up with the same simple tool I used to undo it.

Also use a new and super crisp allen bit to undo these bolts. You don't want a rounded head on this one, it would be hell to get it out. I almost panicked when the bit sliped at my first attempt. But luckily the bit slipped because it wasn't seated all the way so the bottom of the head was still fresh so I still got enough grip to turn it.

Thomas

robt964

Excellent work there sir, and beautifully documented Any reason why you opted to remove the drive shaft at the hub rather than undoing at the drive flange?

Vandit

It seemed more straight forward to remove one big nut versus 6 fiddly strip-prone cap head fasteners. I've had the axles out of the car before, back when I replaced CV boots in 2011.

BLACK-BETTY

Wonderful update - very well written up and with pics to match. Cheers,

robt964

Was the replacement hub nut identical in apperance to the previous one?
When I took mine off to do the front wheel bearings the OPC supplied nuts were approx half the height of the originals. I queried it but they confirmed it was the correct part. Later car/model replacement part?
It concerned me at the time given the torque applied. But I guess the wheels are still on......

Vandit

I know the manual says to always replace the axle nuts, but I've reused them twice. The time I did the CV boots back in 2011, I used some paint to mark a reference point after installation and it hadn't backed itself off or anything when I went to remove it this time.

911Jetta

Wow, just wow! A big bow down to you and your skills. Now that I have kids, my brain is too fired to do anything more complicated than an oil change...

Thanks for documenting the journey, and I love how you got your dad involved too.

Earlydays

Great job, Vandit!

RSAErick

Do you think that a stubby 12mm hex socket would be sufficient? Like this:http://www.sears.com/lisle-dual-driv...48916?prdNo=13

RSAErick

Also, did you modify the rear toe alignment settings to compensate for the fact that you've eliminated the Weissach effect with your new setup?