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964 Clutch pedal travel question

 
Old 05-22-2014, 08:07 AM
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skibumajg
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Default 964 Clutch pedal travel question

It is very difficult to shift my 91 C4 into first and reverse. I have to push the clutch to the floor to slot the tranny into gear. I've bled the master and replaced the slave and slave tube. I noticed that the face of the clutch pedal is not flush with the face of brake pedal. Should they be flush? The face of the clutch pedal is 1.5 inches closer to the front of the car than the brake. Any help here would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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Old 05-22-2014, 09:32 AM
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Rocket Rob
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Old 05-22-2014, 09:41 AM
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I'll open the bets with a clutch pedal roll pin failing
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Old 05-22-2014, 12:11 PM
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FeralComprehension
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There's a pedal stop in the floorboard; adjusting this to allow max travel made a significant difference in my car.

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Old 05-22-2014, 12:16 PM
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+1 on the pedal board stop mentioned by FC.

I also wonder about the bleeding after the slave change...I've heard the C4 system needs bleeding with a hammer as the braking system is more complicated than a C2?
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Old 05-22-2014, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by FeralComprehension View Post
There's a pedal stop in the floorboard; adjusting this to allow max travel made a significant difference in my car.

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fc
Maximum travel is too much, thats why they put the stop there. If you need more travel than is available with the pedal stop adjusted correctly then you have something else wrong.

The fact the pedal seems to be in no-mans land when its up would indicate to me that the roll pin is failing or created an oval instead of round hole in the shaft. Pull the carpet and floor board to have a look, a search for clutch pedal roll pin will probably bring up some useful results to help you out.
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Old 05-23-2014, 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by boxsey911 View Post
+1 on the pedal board stop mentioned by FC.

I also wonder about the bleeding after the slave change...I've heard the C4 system needs bleeding with a hammer as the braking system is more complicated than a C2?
My understanding is that you don't need to use a Hammer (or other diagnostic tool) to bleed the brakes and/or clutch slave cylinder on a C4. You only need it for the transverse and longitudinal locks.
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Old 05-23-2014, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Mixter View Post
My understanding is that you don't need to use a Hammer (or other diagnostic tool) to bleed the brakes and/or clutch slave cylinder on a C4. You only need it for the transverse and longitudinal locks.
Correct. The C2 and C4 clutches are the same. A pressure bleeder is very helpful for bleeding the clutch hydraulics. I have the Motiv Black Label Pressure Bleeder but I'm sure there are other brands that make them too.
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Old 05-26-2014, 01:25 AM
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Also if you already have a regular air compressor (the type you use for air tools) you can set the pressure regulator at 15 to 20 psi and connect to a plastic cap that fits the brake fluid reservoir. The cap from a small Rubbermaid juice box will work and it already has a flip up straw for attaching some clear plastic tubing to. http://ozbo.com/media/g/15187CL.jpg
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Old 05-22-2019, 08:09 AM
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While cleaning carpets and the footwell I decided to set the clutch travel by adjusting the stop on the wooden footplate (145-165mm), not something I've bothered doing before tbh. Much to my surprise the gearchange has improved! I don't understand why but I guess Porsche put it there for a reason. The small Bentley manual also suggested the clutch master cylinder length was adjustable but this wan't true on mine.
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