John McM

james_marshall

WRT this additional clutch pipe - there doesn't seem to be any mention of it in the removal guide that Im using, on here. Is it possible (really) to just manoeuvre it out the way when dropping the engine...?
Anyone else dropped their C4 and run into this? (I DONT have any caps to block off the pipe...!)
I hope so, as I'm planning on doing the final few steps tomorrow and getting the engine etc out....
fingers crossed.

james_marshall

MAHack

https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...cking-key.html

It can be tough to get out. Try prying downward on the hole in the key. You can always just undo the hard line and you will have better access once the motor is out. If it's that stuck it may need rebuilt or replaced anyway.

Good luck.

Mark

John McM

No heat required. You have removed the screw that anchors it right? Sorry I had to ask.

If it's still really tight I recall mine had some residual pressure in the lock so I bled that off just a little then was able to wriggle the lock itself to help. I also used the screw hole to hold an automotive pick/awl to get some purchase on it.

I repeat, if the anchor screw is removed then there is nothing else holding it in apart from general mechanical tightness. Do not force these parts. They are expensive to replace.

John McM

It's a hard line that wends its way around the tunnel tightly. It can't be moved out of the way while still attached.

It's not in the manuals. In fact the part is in pet with no description and no image on line. I asked Design 911 for an image before I ordered it and they couldn't give me one. Luckily the part was correct. I used the damaged one to make blanks. For the two ends.

I know it's a pain, but blanking it off and removing the line is the safest way to do this. An engine install on a C4 is more difficult than a C2. The moment angles are involved that clutch line is in the line of fire. Remove it and give yourself a break.

John McM

If you have an accident its part number 964-423-11000. It sells for GBP 21 at Design 911. I might order another one before they go up in price. My research is in this thread https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...confusion.html

Marine Blue

james_marshall

I'm changing the oil in the gearbox - and want to be sure.. I know the correct method for making sure its filled correctly, but I'm reading that around 4 litres of oil (roughly should be needed) Is this right?

Im doing this all out of the car - so is there a way to get the level correct, as if it was in the car and therefore filled properly?
thanks..!!!

Rocket Rob

If you shim the bell housing up so that the face of the bell housing is vertical (plumb), then the transmission would be the same as being in the car. To fill the transmission, fill via the fill port until the oil starts to drip out. Then install and torque the fill plug. It should take approx 4 quarts.

james_marshall

Brilliant - thanks to you!
So 4 quarts.... just less than 4 litres then

The main reason for my question for the quantity, is that its the 1st time I've changed the oil since I got the car, and hoped that the oil drained, would be close to, or equal, the oil required to fill..... but so far (and i need to raise the bell housing up a little to be sure) Ive only collected almost exactly 3 litres........ hum......

Rocket Rob

I would also change the gear oil in the front diff if you haven't already done so. I change both the transmission and diff when I do it.

Super90

Oh, and then, you can clean it up, nice and shiny ! : )

james_marshall

I dont think I'd ever be able to get mine THAT shiny! Ive used too many toothbrushes as it is! ;-)

cobalt

Try some Xylene, some rags and brushes and a good respirator