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What's the part number for the little rectangular metal spacer plate beneath each of the two allen bolts that secure each fender (directly above the door hinge area)?
I could not find the little rectangle on PET (nor the allen bolts/washers, for that matter).
1. What is the gauge to the right of the gas gauge? Mine never seems to move and is always in the red. I've recently had my car serviced.
2. Is there a specific oil level that I should try to retain? How often are you adding a quart? How accurate are the oil gauges? I know my 991 RS does not read very accurately.
1. What is the gauge to the right of the gas gauge? Mine never seems to move and is always in the red. I've recently had my car serviced.
2. Is there a specific oil level that I should try to retain? How often are you adding a quart? How accurate are the oil gauges? I know my 991 RS does not read very accurately.
1) The gauge next to the gas in the same dial is the oil level gauge. If yours is not moving, have you checked your oil level via the dip stick? If that is ok, then you may have a faulty sender or gauge.
2) Maintain your oil level at 1/2 between low and full on the dip stick. How often do you have to add oil? It depends on how fresh your engine is. When my cab was at 200K, I was burning about 1 quart per 1000 miles. Now, that its been rebuilt, Its much better, maybe 1 quart per 5000. How accurate are the oil level gauges? Mine are very good.
The gauge next to the fuel is oil level. You check it only after the engine is warmed up to operating temp, while idling, on a flat and level surface.
When the needle is horizontal, the level is full. As Rob said, it's best to confirm your gauge accuracy with the dipstick. You can be a little lower, but never in the red. Be sure to follow the correct procedure whenever the oil changed
This question is really apt considering the thread title (sadly :0 )
in the TSB linked below re the vented brake reservoir caps they speak of 2 options
- am I correct that C2 is option 1 and C4 is option 2 (ie the hyd assited option)?
Is the 1990 C4 option 2 or is that only from 91?
I was under the car the other day assessing how badly my steering rack is leaking and as the steering was turned from one stop to the other i noticed my front diff moving side to side also!..
Looking at the rubber mount just behind the unit it would seem by design that is correct and it should be free to move a little...
This question is really apt considering the thread title (sadly :0 )
in the TSB linked below re the vented brake reservoir caps they speak of 2 options
- am I correct that C2 is option 1 and C4 is option 2 (ie the hyd assited option)?
Is the 1990 C4 option 2 or is that only from 91?
This question is really apt considering the thread title (sadly :0 )
in the TSB linked below re the vented brake reservoir caps they speak of 2 options
- am I correct that C2 is option 1 and C4 is option 2 (ie the hyd assited option)?
Is the 1990 C4 option 2 or is that only from 91?
For a C2 or RSA you would follow the directions for vacuum assisted brakes. The C4, turbo, America Roadster, C4 WB, 3.8RS and I believe the 3.6RS you will need to follow the instructions for the Hydraulic assisted brakes.
I caution making the change for the Hydraulic assisted cars unless necessary. If or when the hydraulic pump fails and the bomb is actually charged a significant amount of fluid is pushed back into the reservoir with no place to go but out the vent. Assuming this happens the hose was a better way to get rid of this fluid vs having it spill all over the insider of the frunk. Not saying it will happen but if you do the vent cap and block the vent hose make sure you keep on top of checking to see if any fluid has been pushed out of the reservoir. You don't want brake fluid on any painted surfaces.
.. and yes I agree; was looking at it today and as you say the vented cap will just allow fluid onto the top of the res (which has a small lip for say 25ml and that's assuming car is stationary)
and then overflow would go into the frunk on top of all the various parts below the res.
{Hoping to have a look at the pic too to get a better idea of how they vented it - just added a small one way valve into lid?}
vs the oiriginal/stock method of along a thin black tube that runs (on a LHD car) back towards the windscreen and then down into a EPDM rubber (german blue brake fluid proof rubber; blue gray fabric covered) pipe which goes down past the rear of front wheel aircon pipes and fuel filler etc.. towards the ground somewhere in front of the door jamb.
While this does make bleeding a tiny bit simpler (ie no clamp needed) I think I'm gonna skip it as much as I'd like to get rid of the pipe etc..
I guess if they did make a TSB the factory must think it makes enough sense to change though .. hmmm
just as an aside .. you can see the major cleanup I've done of the frunk ... getting rid of lots of stereo aftermarket crap, little rust risks and lots of dusty road residue after almost 30 years and a spirited user (less spirited carer )
I was under the car the other day assessing how badly my steering rack is leaking and as the steering was turned from one stop to the other i noticed my front diff moving side to side also!..
Looking at the rubber mount just behind the unit it would seem by design that is correct and it should be free to move a little...
What sayeth the experts?..
Thanks
I will put my camera under my car tomorrow and see if my diff moves. How much movement are you seeing?
10-04-2017, 09:14 AM
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