John McM

This is the race jack I recommend. I also use an adaptor that fits into the jacking point. Great security and it saves the risk of popping the sill because of trapping it under the jack.

Runtothehills

awesome I'm buying one now.

STUARTQ

Thanks John, that's very helpful, mine are worse than yours and it drives me mad, no matter what I've tried they look the same, GREY!
Now I know what to do!

John McM

You're welcome. It is a low risk refurb as the parts are inexpensive and the function is not critical. You can trim them as much as you like to make them fit. As long as they fit flush it's all good.

boxsey911

Mine are now done! Thanks John

I won't post pics because there was some rust I had to clean/touch up.

John McM

Some day you Brits will be travelling down under to snaffle our underpriced older salt free cars, just like we're doing on your newer cars at the moment. Hope it wasn't serious rot.

boxsey911

Thankfully, not as bad as I was expecting.

John McM

Good. GPW cars have to keep up the standard. We now have 3 GPW 1990 C4s on our road trip, plus a red C2, with a black c2 doing the final leg. One more and we'll doing our local version of go cars not show cars.

bwe11m

Which is better (on my concourse, low mileage '91 Turbo)?? To leave the virgin tack weld in place, or replace my poor looking seals by grinding the weld out so that I can separate the two panels and replace the seal?

My 1991 Turbo is tack welded (just aft of the furthest back allen bolt in the scuttle), and the paint inside the scuttle cavity is actually quite good. I would HATE to grind out the tack weld, chip up the paint in there with my allen key wrench, and even risk chipping my exterior paint,.... all so that I can replace the seals.

I am wondering if there would be ANY possible chance of success, if I were to remove the old, then gradually cut more & more of the bottom edge of the new seal, until I can get it pushed down in the seam,... and then use a sealant glue (maybe my weather stripping glue) to secure it in place.
It all seems like taking a big chance that it won't work, or look correct when finished.

It is either try,... or justify in my mind that the original seals & tack weld prove that the car still has original paint, and has never been messed with.

Thoughts?

=Steve
__________________
1991 964 911 Turbo
1968 RS/SS 396 Muncie Camaro
1969 SS 396 Camaro

John McM

The seal is a push fit. I wouldn't disturb welds, I would trim the new seal and possibly use sealant to hold in place if needed.

greg1990964

Good write up. I have been procrastinating mine for months. My car didn't have the old ones in to use as temples since removed for re-spray. Your picture told me what to trim and the fact they didn't want to go in was a good clue. I used what I saw Armorall hanging to my left and sprayed that on them for lube. Dish soap would work. The rubber hammer was a must! I would say if old ones are too beat up to trim like the picture on the bottom area only and snip off the remaining centimeter after install with razor. Once they are pushed in they will rip trying to pull out if not real carful. Trim bottom areas first!

Dingo

Great write up john, I found this thread on search as one of my seals popped up on my trip. On d911 they list 4.3mm and 6.5mm. How do you know which one you need? And also are they both the same part for left and right? Thanks

John McM

Hi Dean,

It's a while back. All I know is 6.3mm worked for me. Left and right are the same part.

Dingo

Thanks john

Alexd912

Hey all,

Not sure if anyone is still reading this thread but I'll try.So I am starting the job to replace the rubbers and loosened the2 bolts but as mentioned I can see 2 welds near the bolt.

It seems the only way to separate the wing from the body would be to cut that weld which seems a bit scary.

So any suggestions regarding cutting the weld?

If I am successful say with a Dremel would I need to weld it again?

Any help would be very appreciated.



Alex