964 TT build - Need help with gearbox choice/ratios
#196
Pro
Thread Starter
Thanks! The original cushions on the seats are the triple grey ones, I think those will look great as well. But I wanted to have an all black interior option including black 5point seat belts. I almost had the dash covered in leather as well, but decided the original still looks great so why bother.
#197
Pro
Thread Starter
Small update of the work being done right now. I'm having everything removed, center console isolation as well.
I think it will be covered in Dynamat (strategically) and some other material on the rear barrier where the engine is for heat insulation.
Maybe I'll just have all old insulation removed and do the whole thing new...
I think it will be covered in Dynamat (strategically) and some other material on the rear barrier where the engine is for heat insulation.
Maybe I'll just have all old insulation removed and do the whole thing new...
#198
Pro
Thread Starter
Some more progress, unfortunately they took the damping of the doors by mistake...now it has to be redone. Although this weighs quite a bit I just want the great sound!
#199
Race Car
check my thread for liberally applied bitumen flashing - suggested by Robert at Appbiz
as he says there's very little difference between that and dynamat ... beside 400% markup and branding.
I put in 10kgs worth - it covered pretty much everything - but doesnt compare to the stock soundproofing
but is 25kg lighter
as he says there's very little difference between that and dynamat ... beside 400% markup and branding.
I put in 10kgs worth - it covered pretty much everything - but doesnt compare to the stock soundproofing
but is 25kg lighter
#200
Pro
Thread Starter
check my thread for liberally applied bitumen flashing - suggested by Robert at Appbiz
as he says there's very little difference between that and dynamat ... beside 400% markup and branding.
I put in 10kgs worth - it covered pretty much everything - but doesnt compare to the stock soundproofing
but is 25kg lighter
as he says there's very little difference between that and dynamat ... beside 400% markup and branding.
I put in 10kgs worth - it covered pretty much everything - but doesnt compare to the stock soundproofing
but is 25kg lighter
I really enjoyed having the speakers setup like that, it is a huge difference.
I think I will also use some of this material on the rear wheel arches, just placed strategically (sparingly).
The rest of the car I use bitumen which is much lighter.
#201
Pro
Thread Starter
These are the specifics for the bitumen sound proofing material, if anyone has any suggestions or tips please let me know. I hope this is the most efficient way to get the results I want, keeping the weight as low as possible along the way.
#202
Pro
Thread Starter
HiWind,
I reread your post, had to look for it a bit. I actually had read it before and I have a question about the insulation material.
My interior guy says the bitumen layer with the carpet is enough. But you used another closed cell foam layer in-between, right?
the bitumen layer is only 2mm thick, I can't imagine this to be enough of a sound proofing solution...
As he is doing the work these days, any quick tips are very welcome!
I reread your post, had to look for it a bit. I actually had read it before and I have a question about the insulation material.
My interior guy says the bitumen layer with the carpet is enough. But you used another closed cell foam layer in-between, right?
the bitumen layer is only 2mm thick, I can't imagine this to be enough of a sound proofing solution...
As he is doing the work these days, any quick tips are very welcome!
#203
Race Car
No problem.... Here is my thinking/logic flawed as it may be
Bitumen is a vibration deadener ... Makes the metal 'denser' thereby dulling vibes.
I did 2 layers on firewall and wheel arches as they are the biggest noise areas I've read.
Then I did some close cell foam on rear to provide more noise suppression .... Little extra weight ... Used 6 and 10 mm based on how easily it could fit. Then 2mm rubber over that to smooth it.
Knowing what I know now I'd likely just cut out pieces of closed cell for the 5-6 main surfaces and then use a softer foam over that in 3-5mm to make carpet smoother and provides another layer. Rubber worked to smooth it out but didn't help much at all sound wise - the soft open cell would I think doa better job. Seats and carpet had a material impact tho so I came out at a db level that is alive but still long drive comfortable consider I have vry little mufflers.
hope that helps...apologies I only saw this now
Bitumen is a vibration deadener ... Makes the metal 'denser' thereby dulling vibes.
I did 2 layers on firewall and wheel arches as they are the biggest noise areas I've read.
Then I did some close cell foam on rear to provide more noise suppression .... Little extra weight ... Used 6 and 10 mm based on how easily it could fit. Then 2mm rubber over that to smooth it.
Knowing what I know now I'd likely just cut out pieces of closed cell for the 5-6 main surfaces and then use a softer foam over that in 3-5mm to make carpet smoother and provides another layer. Rubber worked to smooth it out but didn't help much at all sound wise - the soft open cell would I think doa better job. Seats and carpet had a material impact tho so I came out at a db level that is alive but still long drive comfortable consider I have vry little mufflers.
hope that helps...apologies I only saw this now
#204
Pro
Thread Starter
Thanks! Thats what I understood but my interior guy claims the 2mm bitumen layer is enough...
I don't want to redo it again of course. I do have less exhaust noise with the turbos but engine, road and tire noise are also factors.
I don't want to redo it again of course. I do have less exhaust noise with the turbos but engine, road and tire noise are also factors.
#205
Pro
Thread Starter
Just got some photos in from the guy who did my gauges, everything is ready.
I had the black rings replaced because they were dented and ugly and all lights checked and replaced. Ended up with ten new lights in the gauges...
Also decided to have the milage at the original milage instead of zeroed. Last time when he worked on the gauges he zeroed the milage because of a miscommunication between us and I thought what the heck, I'll just leave it at that. But after all I rather have the original milage.
I had the black rings replaced because they were dented and ugly and all lights checked and replaced. Ended up with ten new lights in the gauges...
Also decided to have the milage at the original milage instead of zeroed. Last time when he worked on the gauges he zeroed the milage because of a miscommunication between us and I thought what the heck, I'll just leave it at that. But after all I rather have the original milage.
#207
Pro
Thread Starter
Doors looking good. Only thing I don't like is the speaker 'edge'. I asked if he can make it look flush, move the speaker forward a bit I mean so there is no edge.
Will look a lot better.
Will look a lot better.
#209
Great build! Regarding the speaker, would it be possible to solid mount the speaker in the door before mounting the door panel...do some nice 1-2mm perforations in the leather where the speaker is fitted for a nice and stealthy look.