964 in the winter - who's doing it?
11-01-2013, 01:18 AM
#33
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
If I were in the position to keep both I would. But I'd rather have the C4 and worry about getting a winter beater like a Subaru outback or something if needed...
11-01-2013, 10:04 AM
#34
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I soytanly am, Sir.
A while back a UK guy posted on removing rear bumper mounts, one side had received oil kicked up from a long term leak and the other not. The oiled side was as new and the other side rusty junk.
Maybe I could save myself some time and drive at 100mph in reverse for a few miles, that should get it pretty well covered!
A while back a UK guy posted on removing rear bumper mounts, one side had received oil kicked up from a long term leak and the other not. The oiled side was as new and the other side rusty junk.
Maybe I could save myself some time and drive at 100mph in reverse for a few miles, that should get it pretty well covered!
11-01-2013, 12:32 PM
#35
Track Day
Join Date: Feb 2013
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My V70R is my winter beater. I picked it up a year ago for slightly under $9K with about 123K on the clock. It was a two or three owner car maintained over the last four years by a Volvo specialist who replaced both the water pump and timing belt right before I bought it.
I am not doing nearly as much driving as I did nearly three to five years ago - both cars combined have done <5K miles over the last year. I think most of this has been on the 911 which had <32K miles on it when I purchased it a year ago. All I've done to that car is change the oil and replace the spoiler transmission when the cable broke about two months ago. It's in need of a tune up and valve adjustment which I will defer to next spring. Inevitably, I am going to need to get the engine resealed as well at some point as the PPI revealed leaks at the head gasket. My car is identical to the red one in the snow scene on the previous page from CH.
As for the Volvo, I plan on getting the oil, coolant and o2 sensor changed (check engine light is on). It is perfect for what I need right now (despite having the turning circle of an oil tanker) which is largely around town. I find it to be a great highway and long trip car, although I haven't done more than two or three trips of this sort over the year I have had the car. Based on prior experience owning Volvos (this is my third), my guess is that this car would be pretty expensive to maintain when used extensively. Gas mileage is poor, even on the highway. I had a low beam light go out on me about two weeks ago and the local Volvo dealer wanted $145.00 for the replacement. Cheapest I could find on line was about half of this which was still way over the top as far as I am concerned.
I am not doing nearly as much driving as I did nearly three to five years ago - both cars combined have done <5K miles over the last year. I think most of this has been on the 911 which had <32K miles on it when I purchased it a year ago. All I've done to that car is change the oil and replace the spoiler transmission when the cable broke about two months ago. It's in need of a tune up and valve adjustment which I will defer to next spring. Inevitably, I am going to need to get the engine resealed as well at some point as the PPI revealed leaks at the head gasket. My car is identical to the red one in the snow scene on the previous page from CH.
As for the Volvo, I plan on getting the oil, coolant and o2 sensor changed (check engine light is on). It is perfect for what I need right now (despite having the turning circle of an oil tanker) which is largely around town. I find it to be a great highway and long trip car, although I haven't done more than two or three trips of this sort over the year I have had the car. Based on prior experience owning Volvos (this is my third), my guess is that this car would be pretty expensive to maintain when used extensively. Gas mileage is poor, even on the highway. I had a low beam light go out on me about two weeks ago and the local Volvo dealer wanted $145.00 for the replacement. Cheapest I could find on line was about half of this which was still way over the top as far as I am concerned.
11-06-2013, 09:50 AM
#37
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Detroit (Rock City); 1990 C4
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I run mine in the winter, on super slushy days I may take the CRV. I do run the undercover (winter only; install it with the snow tires) and for the past couple years I have used CorrosionX regular and HD to keep the rust at bay. All underbody fasteners get a dab, as do any places where corrosion has started. I just did my pre-winter corrosionX refresh and was quite pleased with how things looked below.
The WD40 idea is good, philosophically, but WD40 is weak sauce for corrosion protection- it doesn't last, and doesn't creep like the better products do.
11-06-2013, 02:12 PM
#38
Rennlist Member
I have that combo as well. 04 V70R - 6spd manual 300hp, this is actually the wifes daily driver. Has 145k on it now. I just picked up my '92 C4 about a month ago. My daily driver is a 318ti Club Sport. Ill drive the C4 in the winter some but not in salty conditions. Eastern Pa is brutal on cars in the winter.
11-13-2013, 08:10 PM
#40
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
11-14-2013, 07:32 AM
#41
Race Car
I use cups for summer and D90's for winter. The added sidewall height is a good idea for winter driving as a lot of stuff gets hidden under the snow. And d90's, though they are getting more expensive, can be had cheep if you look around...
11-14-2013, 01:31 PM
#42
Team Owner
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: one thousand, five hundred miles north of Ft. Lauderdale for the summer.
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what?
op; could you please repeat the question?
I got distracted by Karen's blessed avatars...
https://rennlist.com/forums/off-topi...s-avatars.html
op; could you please repeat the question?
I got distracted by Karen's blessed avatars...
https://rennlist.com/forums/off-topi...s-avatars.html
11-14-2013, 01:49 PM
#43
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I always forget me how much feel you get out of these little light wheels. D90's are great, so pleased I kept them! Don't forget the taller sidewall gives better traction in snow and ice as well, because more compliant..
Only down side is losing scene-points with all the tunerz running chromed deep dish fuch-a-like 19s
11-14-2013, 01:51 PM
#44
Three Wheelin'
On this topic- anybody familiar with waxoyl / underbody spray treatments to ward off corrosion? I've got some spray undercoating that I just used to touch up where the front tires had rubbed away the factory stuff on a spot inside the wheel wells (also just added the steering rack spacer to solve the rubbing). The rubberized spray went on pretty impressively with just a quick single coat.