poorscheC2

I purchased a set of h&r lowering springs. The installation looks strait forward but, I was just wondering if there are any hints, tips or links to a tech article you guys know of? I did attempt to search but I believe its down for awhile. Thanks, Steven

91C2wrencher

steven I did mine years ago. look at p-car.com for some pics DIY. this is for a 993 i think but its much the same as a 964. If you need to(and I think you will) remove the front strut bolts(the 2 big ones on the wheel carrier), remember to have new ones on hand for reassembly, these are one shot stretch-to-torque bolts and can't be reused. Be careful ith torqing down the 4 upper front bolts easy does it! An impact wrench makes removing/installing the single top strut nut a breeze. You'll need to open the brake lines to remove the strut. The hardest part will probably be getting the rear lower bolts loose, mine were way tight, the aforementioned impact wrench was of no use. Cheater bar and alot of grunt finally did the trick. The rear uppers require removing the airbox on one side and the blower fan on the other to gain access. I'll watch here if you have any Q's, or need moral support

Johnny G Pipe

Watch out for tight nuts! In my recent slightly painful experience, impact wrench and heat source is necessary for this job, which otherwise could be quite straight forward.

My other lesson learned was that if you cut a tiny slot in the brake line retaining clip on the front struts, you can remove the brake line INTACT for the install, and cross 'bleed brakes' off your to-do list.

But don't give up - the end product is definitely worth it!

PS Jeff Curtis' how-to is reproduced on www.Porsche964.co.uk technical section

91C2wrencher

Johnny is right as I recall, if I'd had the nerve to cut and bend the brake line mounting it would have saved many hours of d!ck'in around with brakes. Funny though just this spring I had my prowrench put on SS lines and they wouldn't fit in the strut mounting holes. So he drills/mods the hole to fit the new lines anyway.

horst

Go for it. The front struts are held by two 10mm allen head bolts. I douched mine several days in advance with Kroil. They are tight, but I had no problems. Jeff Curtis buggered one of his when he did his car, and had to wait for a replacement. No need to cut the carrier for the brake lines. Much easier to disconnect, and use a pressure bleeder afterwards. The allen head bolts can be re-used- all the cars out there that have had an alignment done are running with original bolts. Not a problem. On rear, I had to use a 4' cheater bar on the bottom bolts with an Impact socket. They are TIGHT. Please consider using new shocks. If you don't it is false economy. You will not realize the full benefit of this work, and may indeed have a leak, as the original shocks have been accustomed to a "working range" for possibly 13 years, and now you are changing that. I hate to do the same job 2X.

Adrian

Dear Steven,
You say you purchased a set of H&R lowering springs. Which ones?
You have a 1990 C2 which has the shorter rear shocks.
I always recommend that when you use H&R lowering springs to replace the front struts and shocks with stiffer units. Failure to do so can result in additional expense and frustration and lots more posts to this forum.
Ciao,
Adrian
911C4

poorscheC2

Thanks for all the tips and hints everyone! I purchased H&R sport springs they are green. I believe they specified 1.5 front drop and 1.3 rear. I was going to go at it this weekend but now I think I need to purchase some shocks first by the sound of things. Adrian, does the 90 c2 have any disadvantages having smaller shocks on the rear as compared to the later cars that I assume do not? Aside from replacing shocks anything else to avoid the problems that you speak of later on. Thanks Steven

horst

make sure you have a spring compressor on hand. Air tools would be handy, as well as a pressure bleeder.