Navaros911

Yes, it is a USA and I think Canada as well, thing.
The RoW cars have a solid steel tube which are pre-dented to "guide" an unfortunate collapse in case of an accident.

In US cars the bumpers need to go back to original position incase of a very low speed impact. For RoW that's not the case... So we don't need the shock.

As I was thinking of taking my car with me to the USA, I researched quite a bit and the bumpers are a pretty easy mod to bring to US spec.

Meatball964

Can't seem to make this budge. Started w/10mm hex bit (broke). Then torx bit (rounded the hex). Then a bolt extractor (waste of $). Soaked it w/PB blaster & hitting it w/a chisel as you can see. Nothing. I haven't tried any heat yet. All I have is a small Benzomatic propane torch kit...not sure if that will be enough. Oh and I already tried to remove the 2 bolts above it...bolt heads broke of course. Suggestions ?

Meatball964

[I]Here's an interested twist...the support structure bent to the right from all the hammering with the chisel. Bolt still hasn't moved. Looks like this bumpers not coming off...I'm screwed. Does this support piece need to be re-welded ?

Meatball964

Decided not to take the bumper off after all...screw it. I was going to replace the leaking cam chain cover gaskets without dropping the engine, but there are other leaks I can chase.
Oil sender looks to be the biggest culprit...

ZG862

If you mean oil level sender on the oil tank, then you may want to contemplate taking a good look at the tank - maybe even removing it. The outboard side touches the rear wing, trapping (potentially salty) water against it. Mine was developing a series of little pin holes that let oil weep slowly on to the thermostat. Once out, its an annoyingly fiddly if not complex repair. I stripped all the paint off myself before taking it to a metal fabricating shop to take a look at. They pointed me to a blasters to ensure that all the traces of rust were gone before they added a number of little spot welds to seal it all up. I then properly cleaned the inside of the tank before using POR15 inhibitor & tank sealant on the inside. Were I to do this again (never!!), I'd first clean the inside thoroughly so the blaster could do his job free of any traces of oil inside the tank, then weld, then get the outside re-coated, then clean again to ensure the inside was spotless, then rust treat and seal. Much, much, much cheaper than a new tank.

Taking the tank out also makes you take a good long look at all the jubilee clips and decide that you will replace them with marine grade stainless, and clean up your thermostat so you can see anything else developing.

Porsche recommend new sender gasket and of course new washers on the drain points - all of which are pretty cheap.

What fun!

Z

Meatball964

Thanks for the response Z, like peeling an onion at this point.
A very rusty onion....

ZG862

Nah - it's all good. There's a wonderful sense of well-being and self-achievement to be had by pulling your oil system to bits and assembling new-looking parts. Hope its as good when everything comes back together...