overfill
02-01-2013, 10:14 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
overfill
alright guys, oil did not hit the first mark on the stick. put in a quart, and now its too much. let it idle for probably less than a minute, and revved a few times to try to make sure everything was circulating. what are the odds that i have oil in my intake, and how do i check??
02-01-2013, 10:49 PM
#2
Nordschleife Master
The car was dead cold, idling less than a minute, and it's already marking an overfill? That sounds like a major overfill man.
You need to get the car up to temp, then leave the car parked, idling for another 10-15mins before you can trust any oil readings. The temp gauge should be somewhere between 8 and 9 o'clock before you can get a good reading. Revving the engine affects the reading, so the engine has to be idle for about 30secs before you take your measurement.
You need to get the car up to temp, then leave the car parked, idling for another 10-15mins before you can trust any oil readings. The temp gauge should be somewhere between 8 and 9 o'clock before you can get a good reading. Revving the engine affects the reading, so the engine has to be idle for about 30secs before you take your measurement.
02-01-2013, 11:51 PM
#3
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
no, the engine was at full operating temp. the oil level after idling for about a minute was just above red. the dipstick at that point was just below mark 1, then after 1 quart was just above mark 2.
currently slow dripping the tank.
currently slow dripping the tank.
02-02-2013, 12:14 AM
#4
Nordschleife Master
I don't really use the dipstick much, which is a bad practice on my part.
I'll usually do what I mentioned above, sometimes I even put a towel over the wing to cut off airflow and get the car up to temp quicker, then I add oil only until I get the gauge off the floor. Once the gauge moves, I stop, because what I've found is when out racing, the temp and reading will go higher than anything you can achieve normal driving and idling.
In my experiwnce, during normal driving during the colder months, the oil level gauge will never even come off the floor.
Were you doing an oil change? Or just a top off?
I'll usually do what I mentioned above, sometimes I even put a towel over the wing to cut off airflow and get the car up to temp quicker, then I add oil only until I get the gauge off the floor. Once the gauge moves, I stop, because what I've found is when out racing, the temp and reading will go higher than anything you can achieve normal driving and idling.
In my experiwnce, during normal driving during the colder months, the oil level gauge will never even come off the floor.
Were you doing an oil change? Or just a top off?
02-02-2013, 01:27 AM
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I don't really use the dipstick much, which is a bad practice on my part.
I'll usually do what I mentioned above, sometimes I even put a towel over the wing to cut off airflow and get the car up to temp quicker, then I add oil only until I get the gauge off the floor. Once the gauge moves, I stop, because what I've found is when out racing, the temp and reading will go higher than anything you can achieve normal driving and idling.
In my experiwnce, during normal driving during the colder months, the oil level gauge will never even come off the floor.
Were you doing an oil change? Or just a top off?
I'll usually do what I mentioned above, sometimes I even put a towel over the wing to cut off airflow and get the car up to temp quicker, then I add oil only until I get the gauge off the floor. Once the gauge moves, I stop, because what I've found is when out racing, the temp and reading will go higher than anything you can achieve normal driving and idling.
In my experiwnce, during normal driving during the colder months, the oil level gauge will never even come off the floor.
Were you doing an oil change? Or just a top off?
02-02-2013, 02:19 AM
#6
I don't really use the dipstick much, which is a bad practice on my part.
I'll usually do what I mentioned above, sometimes I even put a towel over the wing to cut off airflow and get the car up to temp quicker, then I add oil only until I get the gauge off the floor. Once the gauge moves, I stop, because what I've found is when out racing, the temp and reading will go higher than anything you can achieve normal driving and idling.
In my experiwnce, during normal driving during the colder months, the oil level gauge will never even come off the floor.
I'll usually do what I mentioned above, sometimes I even put a towel over the wing to cut off airflow and get the car up to temp quicker, then I add oil only until I get the gauge off the floor. Once the gauge moves, I stop, because what I've found is when out racing, the temp and reading will go higher than anything you can achieve normal driving and idling.
In my experiwnce, during normal driving during the colder months, the oil level gauge will never even come off the floor.
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02-02-2013, 05:51 AM
#8
I rather strongly disagree with the above.
If you read your owners manual, talked to Porsche they would tell you that a 964 idling for extended periods of time is bad for the car (cams).
To that effect the manual will tell you that when you start your engine drive away straight away. Do not let the car idle to warm up.
By that same logic; when checking your oil go for a gentle drive to get the oil temp up. Then stop on level ground - let the car idle for 20 seconds and check the dip stick. Here is a video where Porsche talk specifically about reading gauges and about checking oil @ 4.40
Therefore when static in traffic for periods of time switch off the engine or raise the revs slightly above idle to help the longevity of your cams. I also manually raise the spoiler if ever in traffic - even though I doubt it makes noticeable difference.
If you read your owners manual, talked to Porsche they would tell you that a 964 idling for extended periods of time is bad for the car (cams).
To that effect the manual will tell you that when you start your engine drive away straight away. Do not let the car idle to warm up.
By that same logic; when checking your oil go for a gentle drive to get the oil temp up. Then stop on level ground - let the car idle for 20 seconds and check the dip stick. Here is a video where Porsche talk specifically about reading gauges and about checking oil @ 4.40
Therefore when static in traffic for periods of time switch off the engine or raise the revs slightly above idle to help the longevity of your cams. I also manually raise the spoiler if ever in traffic - even though I doubt it makes noticeable difference.
02-02-2013, 11:53 AM
#9
Nordschleife Master
It's interesting you say you got an oil light coming on... I am not sure what light you are referring to.
These cars can run on 7-8qts of oil (you shouldn't do that, but it is possible), and the gauge, bottom to top represents 1qt worth of oil (when the car is between ~10-11qts), so even if the oil level is reading on the low end of the gauge, there's still plenty of oil in the car.
These cars can run on 7-8qts of oil (you shouldn't do that, but it is possible), and the gauge, bottom to top represents 1qt worth of oil (when the car is between ~10-11qts), so even if the oil level is reading on the low end of the gauge, there's still plenty of oil in the car.
02-02-2013, 12:10 PM
#10
Nordschleife Master
Your oil system holds 12 quarts .
Running the car with "only" 10 is not going to do any harm .
It will not be starving for oil at 8 .
It is a dry sump system , the scavenging pump sucks oil out of the case and puts the oil into the oil tank , the oil pump pulls oil from the oil tank , the oil tank is better at giving oil to the oil pump than an oil pan . The oil tank is shaped to send oil to the oil pump is a way that an oil pan only dreams of .
If you ever see the oil level needle move , that says you have more that 11 and less than 12 .
If the needle never moves , you have less than 11 .
If the needle ever moves to the top , you have to freaking much oil .
The oil level sensor only senses / measures a small range at the very top of the tank .
The range is so small from bottom to top that its funny .
Running the car with "only" 10 is not going to do any harm .
It will not be starving for oil at 8 .
It is a dry sump system , the scavenging pump sucks oil out of the case and puts the oil into the oil tank , the oil pump pulls oil from the oil tank , the oil tank is better at giving oil to the oil pump than an oil pan . The oil tank is shaped to send oil to the oil pump is a way that an oil pan only dreams of .
If you ever see the oil level needle move , that says you have more that 11 and less than 12 .
If the needle never moves , you have less than 11 .
If the needle ever moves to the top , you have to freaking much oil .
The oil level sensor only senses / measures a small range at the very top of the tank .
The range is so small from bottom to top that its funny .
02-02-2013, 12:16 PM
#11
Nordschleife Master
"after idling for about a minute was just above red." = perfect , imho .
In a Goldilocks voice ,
this one has to little oil
this one has to much oil
this one is just right .
Drain out a qt , take it out for a run , does it run the same same as before ?
If so , no problem .
Last edited by Indycam; 02-02-2013 at 12:57 PM.
02-02-2013, 01:17 PM
#12
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Your oil system holds 12 quarts .
Running the car with "only" 10 is not going to do any harm .
It will not be starving for oil at 8 .
It is a dry sump system , the scavenging pump sucks oil out of the case and puts the oil into the oil tank , the oil pump pulls oil from the oil tank , the oil tank is better at giving oil to the oil pump than an oil pan . The oil tank is shaped to send oil to the oil pump is a way that an oil pan only dreams of .
If you ever see the oil level needle move , that says you have more that 11 and less than 12 .
If the needle never moves , you have less than 11 .
If the needle ever moves to the top , you have to freaking much oil .
The oil level sensor only senses / measures a small range at the very top of the tank .
The range is so small from bottom to top that its funny .
Running the car with "only" 10 is not going to do any harm .
It will not be starving for oil at 8 .
It is a dry sump system , the scavenging pump sucks oil out of the case and puts the oil into the oil tank , the oil pump pulls oil from the oil tank , the oil tank is better at giving oil to the oil pump than an oil pan . The oil tank is shaped to send oil to the oil pump is a way that an oil pan only dreams of .
If you ever see the oil level needle move , that says you have more that 11 and less than 12 .
If the needle never moves , you have less than 11 .
If the needle ever moves to the top , you have to freaking much oil .
The oil level sensor only senses / measures a small range at the very top of the tank .
The range is so small from bottom to top that its funny .
BTW I get around 1300 kms/ltr in consumption on average depending on the driving. With a dry engine (no leaks..knock-on-wood) I'm thinking my valve guides are still in good shape
02-02-2013, 02:14 PM
#13
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
thanks for all the input guys. my car is confused, and in turn, i am confused.
the light i got was the oil can icon right below the pressure gauge. the level then read low, and so did the dipstick, so i added one quart. then it was above full, even though mark 1 to mark 2 is almost 2 quarts. So, i got impatient dripping it out last night, and ended up with the plug all the way out, and a mess on the floor. Caught about 2 cups in a cup, and had about that much on the floor, so about a quart. Start it up today, let it idle to warm up (should I really not do that? I do it everyday), and the level gauge is at about 2:30ish, which is higher than I've noticed it being before.
Could just be me, but it doesnt seem to pull as hard. No smoke from the exhaust though. Is the ISV going to be the easiest way to know if there is oil in the intake?? Keep in mind I never drove it with too much oil in it, which I would assume makes a difference since the breather is probably at the top of the oil tank, meaning that there is more of a chance for oil to get in it with the forces of cornering.
Thanks guys!
the light i got was the oil can icon right below the pressure gauge. the level then read low, and so did the dipstick, so i added one quart. then it was above full, even though mark 1 to mark 2 is almost 2 quarts. So, i got impatient dripping it out last night, and ended up with the plug all the way out, and a mess on the floor. Caught about 2 cups in a cup, and had about that much on the floor, so about a quart. Start it up today, let it idle to warm up (should I really not do that? I do it everyday), and the level gauge is at about 2:30ish, which is higher than I've noticed it being before.
Could just be me, but it doesnt seem to pull as hard. No smoke from the exhaust though. Is the ISV going to be the easiest way to know if there is oil in the intake?? Keep in mind I never drove it with too much oil in it, which I would assume makes a difference since the breather is probably at the top of the oil tank, meaning that there is more of a chance for oil to get in it with the forces of cornering.
Thanks guys!
02-02-2013, 02:47 PM
#14
Burning Brakes
You're probably fine, now.
Don't idle the car to warm it. Start it, make sure all the warning lights (except the spoiler) are out and your seatbelt is fastened, and drive it. Gently (<~3500 rpm?) until it's warm. If you want to check the oil. drive it until it's hot. Fans coming on hot. If the weather's cool, drive it at slow road speeds and higher engine speeds until it's hot. You want the engine hot. Don't even look at the gauge until it's hot.
Idle, level ground, about a minute. Then, you want enough oil in the tank to have the needle about horizontal, or less, or the midpoint on the stupid dipstick. I add oil in 250 ml increments (about a cup) at a time. Pour in the dollop of oil, wait, wait a little longer, maybe even a little longer and THEN check the level (dipstick, gauge, whatever you like best). Probably slightly too little oil is better than slightly too much. If the needle is out of the red zone at the bottom of the gauge, there's a LOT of oil in the car.
So.
1. No idling, it just washes the cylinder walls with gasoline and isn't a good way to treat an engine, especially a cold one.
2. Hot oil. Can't stress this enough. HOT oil.
3. Idle on the level. Add a bit at a time. There's no rush. Watch the gauge. Check the dipstick 30 times. Whatever you like.
Don't idle the car to warm it. Start it, make sure all the warning lights (except the spoiler) are out and your seatbelt is fastened, and drive it. Gently (<~3500 rpm?) until it's warm. If you want to check the oil. drive it until it's hot. Fans coming on hot. If the weather's cool, drive it at slow road speeds and higher engine speeds until it's hot. You want the engine hot. Don't even look at the gauge until it's hot.
Idle, level ground, about a minute. Then, you want enough oil in the tank to have the needle about horizontal, or less, or the midpoint on the stupid dipstick. I add oil in 250 ml increments (about a cup) at a time. Pour in the dollop of oil, wait, wait a little longer, maybe even a little longer and THEN check the level (dipstick, gauge, whatever you like best). Probably slightly too little oil is better than slightly too much. If the needle is out of the red zone at the bottom of the gauge, there's a LOT of oil in the car.
So.
1. No idling, it just washes the cylinder walls with gasoline and isn't a good way to treat an engine, especially a cold one.
2. Hot oil. Can't stress this enough. HOT oil.
3. Idle on the level. Add a bit at a time. There's no rush. Watch the gauge. Check the dipstick 30 times. Whatever you like.
Last edited by DarrylH; 02-02-2013 at 02:50 PM. Reason: Added a couple phrases...
02-02-2013, 02:49 PM
#15
Race Car
Indy, I changed my oil (warm) yesterday and let it drain out from both plugs for 30m.
I then added 10 L/10.56 qrt and my guage is now above 3oclock/half way when warm. It is 28 deg c here tho. So not so sure it won't register until you hit 11.
Could it be I still had 1L+ in the pipes? Also OPC supplied the 10L can in their oil change kit so I figured thats all I needed, right?
I then added 10 L/10.56 qrt and my guage is now above 3oclock/half way when warm. It is 28 deg c here tho. So not so sure it won't register until you hit 11.
Could it be I still had 1L+ in the pipes? Also OPC supplied the 10L can in their oil change kit so I figured thats all I needed, right?