Race / Track Pad recommendation??
#16
I'm not overwhelmed by Pagids and have just switched to Endless. Sadly I don't have enough time on them to comment for a Porsche but I wouldn't use anything else on previous track cars.
Only thing I would add is to get some decent fluid too. Cant go wrong with Motul.
Only thing I would add is to get some decent fluid too. Cant go wrong with Motul.
#18
The Pagids seem to be the cemented choice for Porsche racing here in NZ however I found them to wear quick (in both black and yellow compounds) and create a lot of heat sink below 50% wear. Not to mention they clog up my cross drilled discs quickly which probably doesn't help the heat issue.
I've just put some ME20s in as a starting point but don't have enough time on them yet, have a meet this weekend so will be interesting.
#19
Burning Brakes
I liked the PFC97's on my stock brake system, but heard that they were out of date now (whatever that means). When I upgraded the brake system, I moved to Pagid Yellow RS29 in front and Black in rear. To say that the Yellow's squealed would be a massive understatement - it was horrific, even when hot. However, after 2 track days the squeal went away.
As far as wear goes, the Yellow's appear to be amazingly long lasting pads. And when hot, they seem to have good bite. However, I believe that I liked the tactile pedal 'feel' of the PFC97's a bit better. It's hard to make an apples-to-apples comparison though, since so much has changed (calipers, suspension, tires) since I was last using the PFC97's.
As far as wear goes, the Yellow's appear to be amazingly long lasting pads. And when hot, they seem to have good bite. However, I believe that I liked the tactile pedal 'feel' of the PFC97's a bit better. It's hard to make an apples-to-apples comparison though, since so much has changed (calipers, suspension, tires) since I was last using the PFC97's.
#20
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Not on a Porsche which is why I'm reserving judgement versus Pagid for now.
The Pagids seem to be the cemented choice for Porsche racing here in NZ however I found them to wear quick (in both black and yellow compounds) and create a lot of heat sink below 50% wear. Not to mention they clog up my cross drilled discs quickly which probably doesn't help the heat issue.
I've just put some ME20s in as a starting point but don't have enough time on them yet, have a meet this weekend so will be interesting.
The Pagids seem to be the cemented choice for Porsche racing here in NZ however I found them to wear quick (in both black and yellow compounds) and create a lot of heat sink below 50% wear. Not to mention they clog up my cross drilled discs quickly which probably doesn't help the heat issue.
I've just put some ME20s in as a starting point but don't have enough time on them yet, have a meet this weekend so will be interesting.
#21
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Endless is the current factory fave for fluid...I don't know about pads - we're all aircooled here and I honestly don't keep up with the new stuff.
I do what Weiner/Gamroth tell me to do - it works for me and my car.
I do what Weiner/Gamroth tell me to do - it works for me and my car.
#22
Burning Brakes
Kai is a better/faster driver than me so my guess is that for his use he finds them harsh. I also guess that I'm much more cautious on the brakes and the Hawk blues have suited my style. So yes, I've been very impressed with them, not had bad wear issues and the only thing I dislike about them is that damn corrosive dust. I've had judder problems with Pagids (RS15 greys) but it looks like, with hindsight, that was caused by a bad mismatch of running road pads on the rear at the same time.
I run the EBC reds and/or yellows on the road but have found them fade significantly if used on track.
Haven't tried the Pagid or PF pads yet, they're next...
The Pagid Oranges will leave a deposit on your rotors which builds up over time. At some point, the buildup will be large enough that it will begin to feel as though a rotor has warped, i.e., you'll feel a "shimmy". At that point, throw in a set of Hawk Blues and run two hot laps, they'll clean the rotors down for you.
Or a 3M pad on a pneumatic rotor will clean them.
Or a 3M pad on a pneumatic rotor will clean them.
#23
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I run AP Racing two piece sloted 322x32 rotors beneath big red calipers up front.
After two seasons, the rotors are still very good (I do keep spares in the trailer)...I'd say 70%.
Rears are RS drilled 299x24 beneath the original front rotors (which really should have a 28mm rotor) - despite my strong rear bias, these have also held up nicely (they'll last an entire season for me).
Perhaps I don't brake much as my eyes are usually shut!!!
Edit to add: I do get heat, although I've yet to use temp sensitive paint to see how much. Smoke is not uncommon after a race.
After two seasons, the rotors are still very good (I do keep spares in the trailer)...I'd say 70%.
Rears are RS drilled 299x24 beneath the original front rotors (which really should have a 28mm rotor) - despite my strong rear bias, these have also held up nicely (they'll last an entire season for me).
Perhaps I don't brake much as my eyes are usually shut!!!
Edit to add: I do get heat, although I've yet to use temp sensitive paint to see how much. Smoke is not uncommon after a race.
#24
me neither ...... that was until i installed RS29s. the car was not driveable without earplugs .. no way the noise would be legal .. on a 10km drive at night, i would get about 4 or 5 cars flashing high beam lights at me as i pulled to a stop.
all other road users would require ear-plugs.
but it is fine for a month or two, then it gets louder & louder.
all other road users would require ear-plugs.
but it is fine for a month or two, then it gets louder & louder.
#25
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I can't imagine why a guy would want to run a track or race pad on the street.
These things are engineered to function within specified temperature ranges; beneath that range, they become inconsistent (or as a minimum, do not perform as well) and often LOUD.
Why bother when a pad change takes all of a few minutes prior to a visit to the track. Enjoy the best of both worlds.
These things are engineered to function within specified temperature ranges; beneath that range, they become inconsistent (or as a minimum, do not perform as well) and often LOUD.
Why bother when a pad change takes all of a few minutes prior to a visit to the track. Enjoy the best of both worlds.
#26
if i accelerated to 200kph and did some hard braking with cold pads, i could tell the difference compared to the pads/rotors at track temperatures, but i think that would be the case with any cold pads/rotors.
#28
if you are thinking of using this in your daily driver, it seems fine ....
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...ly-driver.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...ly-driver.html
#30
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this statement above could be a bit misleading ... when using RS29s for the street, it is not like you are going to reverse down your garage drive & crash into the fence from brake failure (which was my concern from reading prior statements like the above) .. however i could not tell the difference for general road braking.
if i accelerated to 200kph and did some hard braking with cold pads, i could tell the difference compared to the pads/rotors at track temperatures, but i think that would be the case with any cold pads/rotors.
if i accelerated to 200kph and did some hard braking with cold pads, i could tell the difference compared to the pads/rotors at track temperatures, but i think that would be the case with any cold pads/rotors.
At calm speeds and during calm use, a guy might not notice a difference, however some here have indicated that they enjoy "spirited" road driving. It is my contention that during these outings, when a person really wants precise control of his slow pedal, the race pad will usually not be at temp - thus the use of the term "inconsistent".
I depend on the brakes for all sorts of things beyond simply slowing down at a stop light in town. Balance, chassis setup, dynamic trail braking and simple threshold braking all play a role - if the pads are grabby, slick or merely not the same every time I ask them to do something - something could go wrong at precisely the wrong time. Some may not notice these inconsistencies, others will.
I would not run race type pads on the street.
The only "spirited" driving I do happens on the track anyway.