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Singer does this in a very elegant way actually (i went to their shop and spent an hour looking at the cars...) : the lower part of the sills are a matte black plastic piece. It completely change the visual proportions in a simple and elegant way (the sills are NOT significantly smaller).
I recon that the above horribly proportioned backdates could be dramatically improved by having the lowest part of the sills painted flat black 9or even simply stickered with a black vynil strip). One would have to play around a bit to get the proportions right.
My 2c...
M
It took me a long time of looking at the Singer cars and all the other 964 backdates, but I finally realized what you have articulated in this post.
It's those black areas below the painted bits that let the Singer look decent. It allows their cars to retain the bumper "heights" that we know from the true long-hood cars, whilst keeping all the 964/993-specific mechanicals tucked away from view.
This is the only way to keep the 964 backdates from looking too tall (in the bumper area, especially).
New to this particular forum so please don't roast me on this, but I've been in the market for a longhood backdate of some sort for a couple years now. I've explored every option from Singer to buying my own donor car and having various shops build one to just buying one that's already done.
So I think I found one I like a lot that's having a PPI done as we speak. The inspector told me that most of these backdates don't have any front/rear collision guard (not the word he used) behind the bumper so it's basically just plastic which would be a big deal if I ever got in an accident (even a minor one potentially). He says the mounts appear to be there and intact and a body shop could probably fabricate some additional protection in these spots for me if I was interested.
I guess my questions are this:
1. Is it true that most of these don't have anything behind the bumpers to aid in protection during a collision?
2. If so, why is that?
3. Is this something I should make a priority if I decide to purchase the car?
New to this particular forum so please don't roast me on this
No worries, cool group here.
...The inspector told me that most of these backdates don't have any front/rear collision guard (not the word he used) behind the bumper so it's basically just plastic which would be a big deal if I ever got in an accident (even a minor one potentially). He says the mounts appear to be there and intact and a body shop could probably fabricate some additional protection in these spots for me if I was interested
Good point. I'll let the experts chime in.
For reference, I've posted a pic of the front crash bar on my car from when I removed the bumper awhile back:
Gents ... very simple.... you loose all of that safety stuff!
The old cars didn't have it and if you do a backdate which should look like the good ones you better throw it away!
Otherwise it looks terrible.....
How do you want to get such a shock absorber under a nice looking bumper???
If you want that, buy a 964 and leave it as it is.
So I skipped that other car and just bought a 964 to start the conversion from scratch. I've been reading everything I possibly can to figure out the best source of some of these body panels. I found a decent looking kit on Design911 that looks higher quality than what GT racing offers. Then there's FSH, MShaw,etc... my head is spinning
Any advice on where else to look? I really want to do this right and most concerned with front and rear bumpers. I definitely have a great shop who can handle all this work (they build all the Leh Keen Safari and backdate cars) so I'm confident there. Just don't want to buy the wrong parts.
Thanks for any advice!
Last edited by tonymission; 06-28-2017 at 12:12 AM.
Streetdaddy,
Had bumper off to replace oil ballast resistor. This pic is a nice memory of my, then little, helper. He's starting high school this fall and has grown with this car.
Cool. I am borrowing jack and jackstands from a friend this weekend. I plan on installing the brake ducts and will be removing the bumper. Looking forward to it.
Any advice on where else to look? I really want to do this right and most concerned with front and rear bumpers. I definitely have a great shop who can handle all this work (they build all the Leh Keen Safari and backdate cars) so I'm confident there. Just don't want to buy the wrong parts.
Thanks for any advice!
I'm planning on doing a backdate too and have thought way too much about this so here's my two cents:
- this recently completed Weiner/Rothsport build is by far one of the best looking non-Singer backdates I've seen https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...te-thread.html
Key parts appear to be a dp front bumper and steel flares from EB Motorsports. I'd personally go with those parts over the Design911 kit.
That said, I do like the rear bumper you refer to better than the slightly bulbous one on the gray car:
The only other (and more difficult) route I'd consider is raising the frunk floor to work with the original longhood bumpers as seen on this TRE car:
I suggest not trying to hide the 964 oil lines and thermostat, just paint all that stuff black. Below is the only non-Singer backdate I've seen hide them successfully:
Hope that helps. Please post your progress for the good of the herd.
The Latest RWB Build from ParkHaus May Give Haters Pause
PARKHAUS Performance & Parts was recently commissioned to build Miami's 4th RWB and it's a game changer. Starting with a 1989 Carrera 4, the team at PARKHAUS began to formulate a plan that included modifications to the Porsche's engine, suspension, exhaust, interior and paint. Along the way they kept one thing in mind, make it "tasteful". That's a word some might not think synonymous with Nakai San's work. Rather than pushing the envelope with aggressive, modern-motorsports-inspired touches, the latest build takes a more restrained, classically informed approach.
06-06-2017, 12:51 PM
