best year 964 to buy?
#1
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best year 964 to buy?
Hi Guys new to the 964 scene.
I was thinking to get one and in my buyers guide book I got here was saying something about early cars up to 91 has gasketless heads installed to block..
was this something that all cars got corrected thru warranty? or is there some still out there not done?
the other question was about the dual flywheel problem. was this again correct on all with warranty?
any other issues I need to know about between the different years
thanks alot
I was thinking to get one and in my buyers guide book I got here was saying something about early cars up to 91 has gasketless heads installed to block..
was this something that all cars got corrected thru warranty? or is there some still out there not done?
the other question was about the dual flywheel problem. was this again correct on all with warranty?
any other issues I need to know about between the different years
thanks alot
#3
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Most will tell you the gasket less heads/blocks is a bit of a non-issue. Same as the dual mass flywheel. There must be very few cars with the original clutch/flywheel left and a updated part was released nearly 20 years ago I think!
Best advice is usually to but on condition rather than age or mileage. Really the cars did not change much during their short production run except minor changes. Later 91 and 92 onwards cars will obviously have all the latest factory improvements but the important stuff; clutch/flywheel, dual distributor belt, etc. will have all been done by now in 99% of cases.
Good luck with your search!
Best advice is usually to but on condition rather than age or mileage. Really the cars did not change much during their short production run except minor changes. Later 91 and 92 onwards cars will obviously have all the latest factory improvements but the important stuff; clutch/flywheel, dual distributor belt, etc. will have all been done by now in 99% of cases.
Good luck with your search!
#4
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Best advice is usually to but on condition rather than age or mileage. Really the cars did not change much during their short production run except minor changes. Later 91 and 92 onwards cars will obviously have all the latest factory improvements but the important stuff; clutch/flywheel, dual distributor belt, etc. will have all been done by now in 99% of cases.
2. Make sure you understand the head-gasket issue. It was cosmetic in nature.
3. There are fewer options for suspension on the early cars. Not something I would make a decision on, but you should be aware.
4. Do some research on the flywheel- I think in Adrian's book it says the early flywheel has a welded on ring gear (?) and this can be seen thru the inspection slot on the bellhousing.
#5
Well the real early ones didn't even have a DMF and I believe the ring was just machined as part of the FW.
The first manufacturer of DMFs for Porsche, I can't remember there name, but that didn't last long before they switched to LUK. Most of them failed in as few as 30k miles and were replaced under warr with a LUK.
The LUK which might have been even before the 91 model year have been pretty reliable. I have 143k on my original Flywheel.
Agreed, buy the best car you can afford, so I woudn't pass on a nice early car.
And the headgasket issue was also mostly taken care of under warr but it was minor oil seapage and had nothing to do with the performance of the engine.
The first manufacturer of DMFs for Porsche, I can't remember there name, but that didn't last long before they switched to LUK. Most of them failed in as few as 30k miles and were replaced under warr with a LUK.
The LUK which might have been even before the 91 model year have been pretty reliable. I have 143k on my original Flywheel.
Agreed, buy the best car you can afford, so I woudn't pass on a nice early car.
And the headgasket issue was also mostly taken care of under warr but it was minor oil seapage and had nothing to do with the performance of the engine.
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#9
IHI KING!
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+964 - Don't focus on the year of the car. The condition and service history is more important. There are subtle differences in the years. If you want to see the year to year comparison, I recommend Adrian's book.
Good luck with the search. And I agree with VR6 - Red is the best.
Good luck with the search. And I agree with VR6 - Red is the best.
#10
Race Car
I would say stick with the later cars - but buy more based on condition and what work has been done over the years. They are all good.
However - that said - if these things mean anything to you - you get more options for shocks and struts with cars post nov 1, 1990 since that seems to be the cut off date for the new rear shock mounts.
You get plastic intake manifolds which some think are better.
you get Valeo discs in a C4 as opposed to the Gylon - have NO idea if that means anything, but I suppose they are better since they changed them.
You get little plunger buttons for the rear seats.
You get aero mirrors (which I find kinda ugly since they are too big)
The list of changes is big - but in my mind 100% inconsequential...then again, my car has been breaking and I have been fixing - and when done, mine will be one of the many 964's completely sorted out that you should be looking for....unless you like to do alot of work....
So - any car you get serious about - SPEND money for a PPI to SAVE money later...can't stress that enough. Make sure they do a full leakdown and not just a compression test in the PPI. If you follow only one piece of advice - follow that one.
Oh - and dont worry abt mileage - just look at the papers and find out what was done when...you may find a car like mine that has 74k on it, but is virtually new - (with the exception of my current issue which is driving me crazy, lol)
However - that said - if these things mean anything to you - you get more options for shocks and struts with cars post nov 1, 1990 since that seems to be the cut off date for the new rear shock mounts.
You get plastic intake manifolds which some think are better.
you get Valeo discs in a C4 as opposed to the Gylon - have NO idea if that means anything, but I suppose they are better since they changed them.
You get little plunger buttons for the rear seats.
You get aero mirrors (which I find kinda ugly since they are too big)
The list of changes is big - but in my mind 100% inconsequential...then again, my car has been breaking and I have been fixing - and when done, mine will be one of the many 964's completely sorted out that you should be looking for....unless you like to do alot of work....
So - any car you get serious about - SPEND money for a PPI to SAVE money later...can't stress that enough. Make sure they do a full leakdown and not just a compression test in the PPI. If you follow only one piece of advice - follow that one.
Oh - and dont worry abt mileage - just look at the papers and find out what was done when...you may find a car like mine that has 74k on it, but is virtually new - (with the exception of my current issue which is driving me crazy, lol)
Last edited by Goughary; 07-03-2012 at 09:21 AM. Reason: typo
#12
Really how could anyone think red is faster than midnight blue plueeese ... I would buy the newest you can afford but ymmv depending on ppp/receipts/etc. Had my 90 now for 9 years (just a fraction of it's 48k mile life)....now on to figure out the ac problem...
#13
Make tha PPI !
#14
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Ditto pretty much what everyone else says, PPI is the key. And note that slate grey 964's are the only ones that don't have the dreaded blinker fluid issue, keep that in mind when you are searching.
#15
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just ordered the book you guys talked about. should come in 2 days
so back to the gasketless issue. i know alot say most have been done but is it safe to say if i buy a car with low km what if its not done thats like a 5000 job from what one of my books says.
was this a recall job at the time same with flywheel?
so back to the gasketless issue. i know alot say most have been done but is it safe to say if i buy a car with low km what if its not done thats like a 5000 job from what one of my books says.
was this a recall job at the time same with flywheel?