Suspension Install Planning / Questions
#19
Instructor
Thread Starter
#20
Instructor
Thread Starter
Actually, upon further review, I understand it. The 7 mm hex bit with adaptor socket for holding the shock piston in place is just a normal combo of tools. I think I have all that in my tool box now. The chopped off 22 mm socket with handled welded on is something I can almost do at home. I just don't have a good saw. I'll probably just have a welding shop do that for me.
Very innovative.
[UPDATE]: Just found that you can use one of many oxygen sensor removal tools out there. However, I hit the jackpot with this one:
Multi-use oxygen sensor / top shock nut tool description:
22mm Socket with 1/2 drive, needed for: 1.) R&R of Oxygen Sensor, 2.) Securing the strut tower retaining nut of most European models (crucial when adjusting tension of front shocks). The 2/3 open side wall of this socket allows for easy access of an adjutsing wrench.
Originally found here:
http://www.shoptoolsshoptools.com/shopexd.asp?id=964
BUT most importantly, can be bought here:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...C%20Each%20%20
There's numerous variants as well. Just Google "oxygen sensor removal tool".
Very innovative.
[UPDATE]: Just found that you can use one of many oxygen sensor removal tools out there. However, I hit the jackpot with this one:
Multi-use oxygen sensor / top shock nut tool description:
22mm Socket with 1/2 drive, needed for: 1.) R&R of Oxygen Sensor, 2.) Securing the strut tower retaining nut of most European models (crucial when adjusting tension of front shocks). The 2/3 open side wall of this socket allows for easy access of an adjutsing wrench.
Originally found here:
http://www.shoptoolsshoptools.com/shopexd.asp?id=964
BUT most importantly, can be bought here:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...C%20Each%20%20
There's numerous variants as well. Just Google "oxygen sensor removal tool".
Last edited by MrNvgtr; 05-10-2012 at 09:27 PM.
#21
Three Wheelin'
That's what I used, works fine, along with a nice long allen key with a cheater tube slid over the end
Its just slightly tricky to torque it accurately, but not a real drama since the torque is more limited by the point at which the inner hex head starts to round out (which seems lower than the book value for the torque).
Its just slightly tricky to torque it accurately, but not a real drama since the torque is more limited by the point at which the inner hex head starts to round out (which seems lower than the book value for the torque).
#22
I'm also going to pull the trigger soon on suspension. Already have elephant racing rubber bushings, cv joint boots, etc. Just waiting to fully decide on either the KW V1's or V3's. Also one of my stock drop links is messed up so I'll probably go with HR sway bars
Also I need to get new spring plates so looking at the ERP ones.
Also I need to get new spring plates so looking at the ERP ones.
#23
Question for those who have V3's - Can I adjust from aggressive street setup to a long distance soft setting (like 3-4 hour drives)?
If that's the case then I would invest in that. If I can only go from super hard to kinda hard then maybe I should go for the V1's?
And are the V1's better than H&R Greens + Bilstein?
So many choices
If that's the case then I would invest in that. If I can only go from super hard to kinda hard then maybe I should go for the V1's?
And are the V1's better than H&R Greens + Bilstein?
So many choices
#24
Nordschleife Master
Yes you can adjust them so they are quite soft in about 20 minutes. Most of that time is down to removing the wheels so that you can get to the bump adjusters on the bottom of the shocks.
#25
Yes, V3's are the ticket. Fully adjustable, but it is fiddly, as Steve once said. I set mine to 80% hard F&R and love it on track and on the street. The V3's are very compliant, no matter how hard you go. Best mod I did to my 91.... Wonderful, wonderful!!
#27
Instructor
Thread Starter
404 Thread Fail
Realizing I'm fairly alone on this suspension install, and having only moderate mechanical ability, I'll be taking it in to my local mechanic for all the work. Too money unknowns for this job. I'll at least have the piece of mind that it'll be done right. Just sucks having more money disappear from my wallet.
Realizing I'm fairly alone on this suspension install, and having only moderate mechanical ability, I'll be taking it in to my local mechanic for all the work. Too money unknowns for this job. I'll at least have the piece of mind that it'll be done right. Just sucks having more money disappear from my wallet.
#28
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Detroit (Rock City); 1990 C4
Posts: 1,710
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
Dude, you can't bail now! My car is totally in pieces!
Today I removed the control arms and tie rods. The passenger arm came out with no struggle but the driver side needed a taste of the Red Hot Treatment. Most every fastener I removed was still moist with what I presume is Optimoly HT, but the longer forward control arm bolt on the driver side was dry as dust. Hans or Fritz got some 'splainin to do...
Today I removed the control arms and tie rods. The passenger arm came out with no struggle but the driver side needed a taste of the Red Hot Treatment. Most every fastener I removed was still moist with what I presume is Optimoly HT, but the longer forward control arm bolt on the driver side was dry as dust. Hans or Fritz got some 'splainin to do...