f3nr15

My car being a February 1993 build has the front emergency release, but not the rear.

I'm putting in the rear emergency release currently, and was able to run it through without needing to make any new holes.

Just need to head out now and buy a correct sized screw to fix it to the latch.

I bought a Porsche OEM release cable, part number 964 512 521 00, for $14 from Pelican.

Andy Roe

Hi everyone,

I'm trying to fit the front hood emergency release cable, but I'm having real trouble in getting the cable to fit through the rubber gromit near the earth cable. Has anyone any tips on getting it through?

Thanks!

boxsey911

Andy, I just made a hole in it with something sharp and pointy, pulled it out and then threaded the cable through from the other side and pushed it back in. Hopefully this pic will help:

Vandit

I ran mine through the grommet for the battery vent.

Andy Roe

Thanks guys. I'll check this out over the weekend. I think I was trying to go through the wrong gromit! The battery vent is the plastic tube in the photo, right?

Vandit

Correct. I run a dry cell battery (Optima) so my vent tube isn't even in use. Worked out perfect for the emergency release.

Andy Roe

OK, all done! I ended up using the vent tube route since I can't remember the last time I had one that needed to be vented!! I think the stock route is to leave the cable in the wheel well - which can be accessed by removing the front left wheel and arch liner - this is no good if your wheel lock key is in the boot!! I fed mine though to the side light so it can be easily accessed.

I'd highly recommend to everyone that if they don't have these back-up ways of opening then front and rear hoods/boot that they do it. No drilling is needed and all I had to do was to fabircate a little bracket for the front hood to take the cable. The engine hood was very easy to do.

My guess is about an hour all in for the peace of mind.

964Heaven

man wish I had seen this earlier, mine quit working yesterday...

have not checked for the emergency release yet....

hoping its just a loose cable and not brokern...

boxsey911

Glad to hear you've sorted it Andy. I went for the double piece of mind by replacing the lever operated cables at the same time.

RicardoD

Can you provide more details on the little bracket you need to fabricate for the front ?

Andy Roe

Sure - it's the same as in this photo..


Essentially it allows you to add the extra cable to the existing release mechanism.

HiWind

Ok so Murphy arrived ... Had my cable out to be fixed (the front door jamb one) and
Had a emergency new pull cable made up as my 1990 didn't have have fitted ...
Left hood open with both new cables inside, ready to be fitted ....

Then someone visiting walked through the garage and to be helpful, closed the trunk!
Oh bother.

Do I need to drill a hole in the undertray? Or can I thread a wire in through the non existent gap between the rubber around the trunk hole and the lid and luckily snag the catch?
Bumper is now off but it hasn't yielded any gaps etc...

Any ideas for helping out of this frustrating situation would be appreciated ...Thanks

crg53

I was in somewhat the same situation a few years back, mine was broken, and I tried a lot of different approaches, none of them worked, so I ended up drilling a hole in the bottom of the frunk, and got it open that way. Don't know if you read my thread about this, I will see if I can find it.
PS. Here is the LINK

HiWind

thanks Sten ... I did see that one a while back and had a feeling the answer was simple
but not fun! cheers for chiming in .... luckily my frunk is empty (no spare etc...)
so will go for the drain hole route and hopefully track down a borescope if needed

Mezger

Just for verification:
As long as you do NOT have the D shaped engine lid lock (late model) you do NOT need the emergency cable.
In the case of malfunction the lid will just open automatically.
I just tried it on my 1990 by loosening the cable tension.
The lid wouldn't lock anymore.

Cheers Chris