C4 maintenance and TPC supercharger upgrade!
10-31-2011, 06:11 PM
#17
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I've been playing Forza 3 on the XBox360 with my son to get practice......sadly he's been whipping my butt (damn 8 year olds!). 
Marc
Marc
11-06-2011, 11:52 PM
#18
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Not as much progress as I'd like this weekend but I did manage to change the rubber covers on the door switches. 
Driver's side door rubber switch cover.
Close-up (messy weld by the po, eh?).
Part number is: 901.615.616.20
Marc
Driver's side door rubber switch cover.
Close-up (messy weld by the po, eh?).
Part number is: 901.615.616.20
Marc
11-07-2011, 11:11 AM
#19
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That reminds me, I need to put my new door switch covers on also.
What's the switch just above the frunk lever?
What's the switch just above the frunk lever?
11-07-2011, 01:04 PM
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It is to turn the wipers off so, if I hit the stalk hammering around a corner on track, I don't look like a dork with the wipers going.
One of my jobs is to relocate that switch to where the radio used to be (next to the CoolSuit switch) as it is hard to reach if I forget it and I'm all belted in.
Marc
One of my jobs is to relocate that switch to where the radio used to be (next to the CoolSuit switch) as it is hard to reach if I forget it and I'm all belted in.
Marc
11-08-2011, 12:47 AM
#21
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Finally got some more done: I repacked the inner CV joints of the rear half-axles.
Here we go....
Here is one of the new half axles - too bad the grease is all dried up.
We'll start with the inner CV joint.
Tap the gold cover off the inner CV joint.
Cover is off.
Grease in the gold cover.
A bit of a gooey mess.
Remove the straps on the boot.
Remove the smaller strap too.
Pull the rubber boot down.
More goo here too.
Clean up the CV joint a bit.
Push the CV joint outward along the shaft a little.
Remove the circlip.
Tap off the outer gold gover.
Lots more old grease.
Use your handy gear puller to haul the CV joint off.
CV joint off.
Dirty CV joint.
Here is the inner end of the half-axle.
Dirty boot and CV joints. So we start cleaning.....
Cleaned the half-axle end.
Cleaned the gold covers and circlip.
Cleaned up races and *****.
Here is the re-assembled CV joint (notice how the inner and outer races sit - wide nubin against narrow nubin, not reversed).
Re-greased the axle end.
Slip the cleaned boot and gold cover back on.
Put the CV joint back on.
Whack the CV joint back on using a small sledge and a 28 mm socket to "encourage" the CV joint back on the splined end of the half-axle.
Don't whack the axle end - hit the socket on the CV joint instead.
CV joint back on and re-install the circlip.
Here is the grease - Swepco 101 Moly grease. I considered NEO from HRP Motorsports but, at $80/tube, I thought better of it!
Grease the inner end.
Grease the outer end.
Here are the retaining clips (cleaned in the tumble cleaner from Eastwood again) and new Stage 8 locking bolts.
Squeeze the gold covers together and slip the new CV bolts with retaining clips back on.
Slip the rubber boot back on.
Re-install the CV joint straps.
All done - clean and shiny.
Tools used......
Other tools used (22 and 28 mm sockets).
A slightly used tube of grease (one tube was used for both inner CV joints).
Part number for the half-axle is 964.332.024.15
Sorry for being so long but at least I'm detailed.
Next, I'll look at doing the outer CV joints.
Marc
Here we go....
Here is one of the new half axles - too bad the grease is all dried up.
We'll start with the inner CV joint.
Tap the gold cover off the inner CV joint.
Cover is off.
Grease in the gold cover.
A bit of a gooey mess.
Remove the straps on the boot.
Remove the smaller strap too.
Pull the rubber boot down.
More goo here too.
Clean up the CV joint a bit.
Push the CV joint outward along the shaft a little.
Remove the circlip.
Tap off the outer gold gover.
Lots more old grease.
Use your handy gear puller to haul the CV joint off.
CV joint off.
Dirty CV joint.
Here is the inner end of the half-axle.
Dirty boot and CV joints. So we start cleaning.....
Cleaned the half-axle end.
Cleaned the gold covers and circlip.
Cleaned up races and *****.
Here is the re-assembled CV joint (notice how the inner and outer races sit - wide nubin against narrow nubin, not reversed).
Re-greased the axle end.
Slip the cleaned boot and gold cover back on.
Put the CV joint back on.
Whack the CV joint back on using a small sledge and a 28 mm socket to "encourage" the CV joint back on the splined end of the half-axle.
Don't whack the axle end - hit the socket on the CV joint instead.
CV joint back on and re-install the circlip.
Here is the grease - Swepco 101 Moly grease. I considered NEO from HRP Motorsports but, at $80/tube, I thought better of it!
Grease the inner end.
Grease the outer end.
Here are the retaining clips (cleaned in the tumble cleaner from Eastwood again) and new Stage 8 locking bolts.
Squeeze the gold covers together and slip the new CV bolts with retaining clips back on.
Slip the rubber boot back on.
Re-install the CV joint straps.
All done - clean and shiny.
Tools used......
Other tools used (22 and 28 mm sockets).
A slightly used tube of grease (one tube was used for both inner CV joints).
Part number for the half-axle is 964.332.024.15
Sorry for being so long but at least I'm detailed.
Next, I'll look at doing the outer CV joints.
Marc
11-09-2011, 01:04 AM
#22
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Got the outer CV joints done today. I considered cutting the outer gold cover off (like in Jeff's thread) but decided to just buy another set of half axles to cut up later (my friend with the lathe is away - I am the friend with the lift). In the meantime, I figured I'd get on with it and do this the old-fashioned way.
I packaged up the inner CV to prevent any de-greaser getting in the CV joint I just did.
Here is the outer CV joint (with protective plastic cover on the splined and threaded bits).
Straps are off.
Boot is pulled down.
Dig out the old grease and wipe out all the goo.
Clean here.
Clean here too.
I then poured and swished in lots of Gunk.
The I hosed in lots of brake cleaner.
Finally I washed it all out with a water-soluble de-greaser.
Then I rinsed out the de-greaser and left the half-axles to dry overnight. The joints were so stiff they were seized since I removed so much grease.
Divy the grease up for both outer CV's by cutting the tube in half.
Pack lots of grease in.
Pull the boot back down.
Straps back on and all done.
Old versus new.
Close up.
Close up of the other end.
Marc
I packaged up the inner CV to prevent any de-greaser getting in the CV joint I just did.
Here is the outer CV joint (with protective plastic cover on the splined and threaded bits).
Straps are off.
Boot is pulled down.
Dig out the old grease and wipe out all the goo.
Clean here.
Clean here too.
I then poured and swished in lots of Gunk.
The I hosed in lots of brake cleaner.
Finally I washed it all out with a water-soluble de-greaser.
Then I rinsed out the de-greaser and left the half-axles to dry overnight. The joints were so stiff they were seized since I removed so much grease.
Divy the grease up for both outer CV's by cutting the tube in half.
Pack lots of grease in.
Pull the boot back down.
Straps back on and all done.
Old versus new.
Close up.
Close up of the other end.
Marc
11-09-2011, 01:13 AM
#23
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Reinstall the half axles next.
Slip the splined end of the outer CV in from the inside and align the inner CV with the transmission. Don't forget to put lots of copper paste on the splines.
Tighten up the 6 CV joint bolts (Stage 8 locking bolts require a long/deep 8 mm 12-point socket to tighten). Tighten to 32 ft-lbs.
Re-install a new axle nut and tighten as much as possible (you can't torque it up yet until the caliper and rotor are back on to stop the hub moving). Again, smear a bit of copper paste on the threads before the nut goes on.
Part number 999.084.634.09 for the axle nuts.
Marc
Slip the splined end of the outer CV in from the inside and align the inner CV with the transmission. Don't forget to put lots of copper paste on the splines.
Tighten up the 6 CV joint bolts (Stage 8 locking bolts require a long/deep 8 mm 12-point socket to tighten). Tighten to 32 ft-lbs.
Re-install a new axle nut and tighten as much as possible (you can't torque it up yet until the caliper and rotor are back on to stop the hub moving). Again, smear a bit of copper paste on the threads before the nut goes on.
Part number 999.084.634.09 for the axle nuts.
Marc
11-11-2011, 11:16 PM
#28
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More progress recently.
New PowerSlot rear rotors with copper paste on the retaining screws (14 ft-lbs). Yes, the rotors are on the wrong side. .
The slots are actually supposed to face the other way if the vanes inside the rotor are directional but the vanes in these rotors are radial so the slots can go either way and I wanted the slots to point in the same direction as the Willwood rotors I have on the front.
Calipers back on and torqued to 63 ft-lbs.
New Pagid Black pads for the rear too.
Parts for today are:
Rotors: 126.37023SL and 126.37023SR
Rear pads: E1203 140 10
Marc
New PowerSlot rear rotors with copper paste on the retaining screws (14 ft-lbs). Yes, the rotors are on the wrong side.
.The slots are actually supposed to face the other way if the vanes inside the rotor are directional but the vanes in these rotors are radial so the slots can go either way and I wanted the slots to point in the same direction as the Willwood rotors I have on the front.
Calipers back on and torqued to 63 ft-lbs.
New Pagid Black pads for the rear too.
Parts for today are:
Rotors: 126.37023SL and 126.37023SR
Rear pads: E1203 140 10
Marc
11-11-2011, 11:34 PM
#29
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I also changed the fluid in the front differential.
Front under aero-cover comes off exposing the front differential (here we are looking upwards and slightly backwards from the front left corner). We can also see the fill plug along the left side and the drain plug at the bottom. Yeah, the front CV's look like hell.
Undo the fill plug using a 10 mm hex driver then undo the drain plug and let the black gold pour out. Once done, re-install the drain plug using a new crush washer and torque to 22 ft-lbs.
Here is the funnel and tube I used to refill the diff case.
Here is the lovely new fluid (Redline 75W90NS). We'll need about 1 1/2 quarts for this.
Use the funnel and tube to re-fill the diff case slowly until the fluid runs back out.
Another shot of the fluid running in - kinda hard to photograph this part.
The best access to the fill hole is through the front left wheel well after removing the left front wheel. Here is my setup to re-fill the fluid easily.
Then re-torque the fill plug to 22 ft-lbs again after changing the crush washer here too.
Parts used here: Redline 75W90NS (need 2 quarts to be safe)
Crush washers: 900.123.111.30 or 900.123.118.30 (same as oil crush washers)
If you want to change the plugs so they are shiny: 999.063.008.02 and 900.219.001.30
Marc
Front under aero-cover comes off exposing the front differential (here we are looking upwards and slightly backwards from the front left corner). We can also see the fill plug along the left side and the drain plug at the bottom. Yeah, the front CV's look like hell.
Undo the fill plug using a 10 mm hex driver then undo the drain plug and let the black gold pour out. Once done, re-install the drain plug using a new crush washer and torque to 22 ft-lbs.
Here is the funnel and tube I used to refill the diff case.
Here is the lovely new fluid (Redline 75W90NS). We'll need about 1 1/2 quarts for this.
Use the funnel and tube to re-fill the diff case slowly until the fluid runs back out.
Another shot of the fluid running in - kinda hard to photograph this part.
The best access to the fill hole is through the front left wheel well after removing the left front wheel. Here is my setup to re-fill the fluid easily.
Then re-torque the fill plug to 22 ft-lbs again after changing the crush washer here too.
Parts used here: Redline 75W90NS (need 2 quarts to be safe)
Crush washers: 900.123.111.30 or 900.123.118.30 (same as oil crush washers)
If you want to change the plugs so they are shiny: 999.063.008.02 and 900.219.001.30
Marc
