Need Advice on Tiptronic ATF fluid levels
05-31-2011, 01:40 PM
#1
AutoX
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Need Advice on Tiptronic ATF fluid levels
Hey guys. I’ve searched and read all I can find but still wanted to bounce this off you all.
I have a ’91 Tip and it’s been slow dripping ATF from the filler plug since I got it last July. When I run it regularly, it doesn’t but after I let it sit for a few days it would start again. Based on what I’ve read, this is due to the ATF settling down into the pan so that’s logical to me. The PO had a shop “add ATF – 2 QTS” a month before I bought it and I don’t know if this was done the proper way using the Hammer. When the engine is cold, the fluid filled the entire oil pan plastic indicator gauge (you Tip guys know what I’m talking about – with the 30 degree and 80 degree marks). Based on what I’ve read – this seemed like an obvious overfill situation.
So with the engine cold I took off the tranny shield and loosened the filler plug. The filler connection immediately released at least a quart of ATF very quickly and then slow dripped for some time. I put the plug back on and waited a few days and the fluid again settled and filled the entire indicator guage so I did this again and dropped another quart (approx) very quickly. I figured these were the two quarts that could have been overfilled as whatever was coming out the filler connection was due to gravity and thus over the proper fill amount.
I started up the car and let it warm up but it was rough moving from reverse to drive and felt like it wanted to stall out (but didn’t) in reverse and when slowing down and idling at red lights. Based on what I’ve read – it’s now too low. The level was at the 30 degree min mark on the indicator with engine warm, idling and park brake applied. I added a quart of fresh ATF and it’s running a lot smoother now with no feeling of the engine wanting to stall out. I figure I’m ok now – the indicator shows slightly above mid on the 30 degree mark with engine warm (20 min run, 80 F ambient temp), idling with park brake on. I guess it surprised me that I took too much out though…
So, you guys ever get leaking out of your filler valves when you’re running the proper level of ATF? How important is it to torque that cap to 30 ft/lbs? (I believe that’s what I read as the proper torque).
Any words of wisdom? When I added the 1 QT and removed my fluid pump line, the ATF was draining right back out at me fairly quickly (with a cold engine). Does a P shop add the fluid while the engine is running and hot to avoid this? This seems like a really strange process to me. Thanks.
I have a ’91 Tip and it’s been slow dripping ATF from the filler plug since I got it last July. When I run it regularly, it doesn’t but after I let it sit for a few days it would start again. Based on what I’ve read, this is due to the ATF settling down into the pan so that’s logical to me. The PO had a shop “add ATF – 2 QTS” a month before I bought it and I don’t know if this was done the proper way using the Hammer. When the engine is cold, the fluid filled the entire oil pan plastic indicator gauge (you Tip guys know what I’m talking about – with the 30 degree and 80 degree marks). Based on what I’ve read – this seemed like an obvious overfill situation.
So with the engine cold I took off the tranny shield and loosened the filler plug. The filler connection immediately released at least a quart of ATF very quickly and then slow dripped for some time. I put the plug back on and waited a few days and the fluid again settled and filled the entire indicator guage so I did this again and dropped another quart (approx) very quickly. I figured these were the two quarts that could have been overfilled as whatever was coming out the filler connection was due to gravity and thus over the proper fill amount.
I started up the car and let it warm up but it was rough moving from reverse to drive and felt like it wanted to stall out (but didn’t) in reverse and when slowing down and idling at red lights. Based on what I’ve read – it’s now too low. The level was at the 30 degree min mark on the indicator with engine warm, idling and park brake applied. I added a quart of fresh ATF and it’s running a lot smoother now with no feeling of the engine wanting to stall out. I figure I’m ok now – the indicator shows slightly above mid on the 30 degree mark with engine warm (20 min run, 80 F ambient temp), idling with park brake on. I guess it surprised me that I took too much out though…
So, you guys ever get leaking out of your filler valves when you’re running the proper level of ATF? How important is it to torque that cap to 30 ft/lbs? (I believe that’s what I read as the proper torque).
Any words of wisdom? When I added the 1 QT and removed my fluid pump line, the ATF was draining right back out at me fairly quickly (with a cold engine). Does a P shop add the fluid while the engine is running and hot to avoid this? This seems like a really strange process to me. Thanks.
05-31-2011, 02:07 PM
#2
Rennlist Member
05-31-2011, 02:27 PM
#3
AutoX
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for the link. I read that one several times before but it was good to see it again.
So based on those comments, my fluid level is about right (maybe a bit low), but some guys have leaking through the non return connector when they fill similar amounts of fluid and others don't. Might I have a non-functioning "non-return" valve? Maybe this is what has been causing the leaking to date more than an overfill situation?
Anyone else experience this?
So based on those comments, my fluid level is about right (maybe a bit low), but some guys have leaking through the non return connector when they fill similar amounts of fluid and others don't. Might I have a non-functioning "non-return" valve? Maybe this is what has been causing the leaking to date more than an overfill situation?
Anyone else experience this?
05-31-2011, 02:46 PM
#4
Rennlist Member
It's the actual cap that seals the non-return valve. All the non-return valve does is slow down the oil from leaking out when you remove the quick-disconnect fitting from it - if your using it that way.
The cap goes on with 30NM or 22ftlbs of torque but more importantly there's a gasket that needs to be there...check the photos in the link and you'll see it....is it there on your car?
The cap goes on with 30NM or 22ftlbs of torque but more importantly there's a gasket that needs to be there...check the photos in the link and you'll see it....is it there on your car?
05-31-2011, 03:37 PM
#5
AutoX
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Mojo,
Thanks for clearing up the function of the non-return filling connector. It sounds like the cap is the "stop" for the fluid and when the transmission has adequate ATF it will leak, drain or drip from the connector if the cap isn't tightened down and properly sealed, right?
I do have the aluminum crush washers for the cap, which I ordered and just put on. The PO had installed a copper washer which may have been too hard to crush for a proper drip proof seal the past few months. Are these the "gaskets" that you're mentioning?
Thanks for clearing up the function of the non-return filling connector. It sounds like the cap is the "stop" for the fluid and when the transmission has adequate ATF it will leak, drain or drip from the connector if the cap isn't tightened down and properly sealed, right?
I do have the aluminum crush washers for the cap, which I ordered and just put on. The PO had installed a copper washer which may have been too hard to crush for a proper drip proof seal the past few months. Are these the "gaskets" that you're mentioning?
