Autocross/ slamom 964 on a budget.
 

I got a 964 for last year and I love autocross/slalom driving events.

My old car was a 1981 VW Scirocco turbo, that car started out as a stock wreck and was during my 8 years of ownership turned into an all out streetlegal racer. 1.8T 20v engine, short ratio gearbox, quick steering rack, poly bushes everywhere, adjustable koni's, adjustable front top mounts, 8-point roll cage etc. A fun and quick yet load and bumpy car, but...it was too extreme to be able to enjoy everyday...I never drove it to work or to the store becuase it was just too uncomfy and only came into it's when own driven hard and fast...

So I wanna keep my 964 enjoyable for everyday driving. No excessive lightening of the car etc etc.... but I still wanna improve it slightly for autocrossing.... and I'm still on a budget since I'm spending most of my car money on payments and maintenance...

I've gotten a front strut tower brace, not sure if it does anything but it was cheap and it did alot for my former car.

I'm changing all the old brake discs and pads to new OEM parts and changing the hoses to stainless steel hoses. Switching to ATE Superblue brake fluid.

I want to get a wheel alignment and cornerweight next, aiming for this setup:
-2,5 Camber front
-2 Camber rear

1 mm toe in front
3 mm toe in rear

Next on my list with be some grippier tires but the Dunlops SP9000 that's on now were brand new when I bought the car last year so I'll have to wear those out first.

What mods would you do next? and what have you done to your car to improve feel, balance and handling?

You've covered the basics. I would say the next would be some more aggressive tires on a second set of wheels and perhaps a new drivers seat. Beyond that, you could go down the path of trying to loose weight but then you start moving away from a street car.

How are your engine mounts?
If they are sagging, then your engine is flopping around a lot during your autocross runs...

New mounts would better connect the engine to the chassis and give you better control over the car at the limit (and more confidence in your steering input as you start to turn). It just feels more connected. Also the car feels much more settled when hard on/off the throttle (again, less engine rocking). Shifting is also improved on hurried downshifts.

I switched the sloppy original mounts to RS mounts this winter. :-)

fresh suspension? New springs, new shocks.

I always pull the #24 fuse before an event. Accidentally hitting the wiper switch during a run can make you look foolish. ;)

Doc

Honestly, that's about. I club raced RSA #1 with only changing the brake pads, springs, shocks, stabilizer bars and adding the necessary safety equipment. (The car still had the catalytic converter installed.) I did run it at class minimum weight of 2760 lbs (without driver). Of course I ran appropriate R compound tires, but more often than not they were other than Hoosiers. I think I still hold the Thunderhill lap record for (then) D stock.

RSA #2 was even lighter prepped, with only some Euro RS street version Bilsteins + basic lowering springs. Car was entirely entertaining over the ~6K track miles it got over the years. The new owner seems to enjoy it, and someone else here has driven the car and inquired what exactly I'd done. That was an otherwise from-the-factory 140K mile car. Always ran 235 + 275 RA1's on fake Cup 1 wheels.

You don't need to overthink or overspend.