The 432th Oil Change thread
04-05-2011, 07:58 PM
#16
Racer
Thread Starter
Dino?? I thought synthetic was the way to go (see Excellence May 2011)
AND if its real racing oil it may not be good for your catalytic converter and will have a reduced oil change interval http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...AQs.aspx#FAQs1
which may indicate a lack of other additives
I'm just sayin....
'93rsa 3.8
AND if its real racing oil it may not be good for your catalytic converter and will have a reduced oil change interval http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...AQs.aspx#FAQs1
which may indicate a lack of other additives
I'm just sayin....
'93rsa 3.8
04-06-2011, 08:50 AM
#20
IHI KING!
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Location: Nashua, New Hampshire, USA
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If you have a calibrated arm, I'm sure you can get away without a torque wrench but I recommend buying one. Its good to have for many situations. They are not prohibitively expensive. I use a middle of the road Craftsman. Its been very reliable.
Edit: I also find that I need a 15mm crowsfoot to torque the engine case plug. My short socket is too tall to fit between the case and heat exchanger.
Torque wrench - $80 = http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_101...3&blockType=L3
Crowsfoot set - $50 = http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00904363000P
No affiliations......
Edit: I also find that I need a 15mm crowsfoot to torque the engine case plug. My short socket is too tall to fit between the case and heat exchanger.
Torque wrench - $80 = http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_101...3&blockType=L3
Crowsfoot set - $50 = http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00904363000P
No affiliations......
04-06-2011, 09:22 AM
#21
I would says its not vital, Handle and worth while but not the end of the world if you don't. I have one but never used it on the sump plugs. Wheels bolts, main and big end bearings, cylinder heads, suspension parts and more, but not the sump, just never bothered.
