superdylan

So, last Friday, I got bored and decided to dismantle my 1993 964 cab. I've been contemplating freshening it up for sale. For me, that means going through the vehicle with a fine tooth comb and making the car extra pretty.

I've got a minor oil leak coming from somewhere on the engine. (~0.5 qt every 1000 miles). So, I figured I would start freshening up the car from there. I've recently replaced the valve cover gaskets, but they could be leaking again. Not sure. I haven't found the source of the leaks at this point, but I was thinking about just going through the engine and replacing all of the gaskets and seals that I can without having to do a top end rebuild or remove the engine.

Does anyone have a list of all of the gaskets/seals that can be replaced on the 3.6L engine without having to do a tear down? (I don't mind removing the intake and a couple other things to get to the possible leaking culprits, I just don't want to get into an engine rebuild...)

superdylan

This is the side that is the worst. Lot's of gook and goop everywhere. Everything is stock on the vehicle.

superdylan

I found a list of some parts from the Pelican website that I can change without pulling the engine:

999-113-463-40-M204 Seal for Power Steering Drive
999-707-293-40-M17 O-Ring for Power Steering Drive
964-602-559-00-M100 Spark Plug Wire Clip $0.75
930-107-791-02-M17 Crankcase Top Breather Cover Gasket
900-123-007-30-M131 14 x 18mm Sealing Ring
999-707-314-40-M17 Engine Thermostat O-Ring
900-123-140-30-M17 Gasket for Oil Temperature Sending Unit
900-123-008-30-OEM Sealing Ring A14 x 20
999-701-909-40 O-ring for oil bridge part 7.7 x 3.53(near upper valve cover driver side) (Need 4.)
999-707-288-40 O-ring for oil bridge part 6 x 2.5(near upper valve cover driver side)(Need 2.)

Slightly more difficult - requiring partial engine drop
964-105-140-01 Timing cover bolt grommet
964-105-181-01-M260 Timing cover gaskets

Others?

Crystal Cranks

For a leak like that start at the top and work down, possible culprits oil pressure sender, oil return lines, oil line to filter, timing chain covers, chain tensioner covers, valve covers, crank case through bolt seals.
Or a bit of all of the above.
All possible with engine in the car except for the through bolts.

superdylan

Thanks for the tips crystal. I'll definitely do that. The engine sounds great and will probably go quite a while longer, which is why I don't want to mess with a rebuild yet. I'm just fed up with all the oil dripping from the bottom! It would be nice if someone would put together a kit...

The Flying Dutchman

clean it al totally. with a bit of thinner (not sure ih thinner is also the english/american name) or other stuff. Then make ik all dry. then start for a drive, but don't drive too fast (max 60 mph). Then raise the car up and try to find from where it leaks.

With this picture you cannot really say anything. Oil is blown all over the place by the wind, etc.

swftiii

Dylan,

Looks like my engine. I've only done a little exploration on mine, but know that the 2 of the 4 valve covers are leaking and suspect some leaking from the oil supply/return lines too. My plan later this spring is to do my first valve adjustment which will address the valve cover leaks and then look at the oil return lines too.

I replaced the oil pressure sender and oil ring last year and know that isn't leaking now.

Please post as you move through this so others (read this as ME), can learn from what you do and where you find the leaks.

Thanks,
Skip

Rocket Rob

+1 - My engine looked terrible. After a good cleaning, I was able to pin point a leaky oil pressure sender. Replaced it and the o-rings. A relatively simple fix for what looked like a big (expensive) job.

swmic

The main leak on my car was from the failed o-ring behind the power steering pump. Kind of a pain to get to, but the fix was worth it.