Engine Drop - the Easier Way
#1
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Engine Drop - the Easier Way
What a pleasure having a scissors lift!
It took about 6 hours, which included over 1 hour to grind an allen head cap screw holding a transmission cable bracket! I just used the write-ups on Rennlist, Pelican and Adrian's book. As this is a TIP, a littleimprovising was needed along the way.
Now, I'll clean it up, replace the cam shaft O-rings and gaskets, Oil breather gasket, do a valve adjustment, replace the plugs, wires, caps and rotors and the coils. I'm having a friend from the local PCA club set the cam timing, then, back in for the DE season!
It took about 6 hours, which included over 1 hour to grind an allen head cap screw holding a transmission cable bracket! I just used the write-ups on Rennlist, Pelican and Adrian's book. As this is a TIP, a littleimprovising was needed along the way.
Now, I'll clean it up, replace the cam shaft O-rings and gaskets, Oil breather gasket, do a valve adjustment, replace the plugs, wires, caps and rotors and the coils. I'm having a friend from the local PCA club set the cam timing, then, back in for the DE season!
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Lou,
Agree on the nice lift.....
Can you elaborate on the improvising on removing the engine with the TIP? I don't think I've seen a post here on rennlist for actually removing tip transmission.... You're making it look easy.
FYI, you've probably already have done it, but it be a good time to replace the oring on the oil pressure sender
Agree on the nice lift.....
Can you elaborate on the improvising on removing the engine with the TIP? I don't think I've seen a post here on rennlist for actually removing tip transmission.... You're making it look easy.
FYI, you've probably already have done it, but it be a good time to replace the oring on the oil pressure sender
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#8
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Can you elaborate on the improvising on removing the engine with the TIP? I don't think I've seen a post here on rennlist for actually removing tip transmission....
FYI, you've probably already have done it, but it be a good time to replace the oring on the oil pressure sender
FYI, you've probably already have done it, but it be a good time to replace the oring on the oil pressure sender
Did the oil sender unit O-ring 2 years ago. Now it's the oil breather gasket on the left side!
Yes! Sawzall and grinder before I even started! Plenty of Google posts that it won't compromize the lift's intergity. Otherwise, the TIP (or any trans) would hang up on the crossmember.
It's a Fabspeed 1 in, 2 out (I posted a few times that it is LOUD with the dual outlet). So much that I fab'ed a circular baffle that I insert in the left side of the exhaust to create more backpressure, which controls the drone (and turns the sound into a GROWWWWWWL. I remove the baffle for the DE's and butt feel a little more power.
Last edited by LouZ; 02-21-2011 at 11:30 AM.
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I too had issues with resonance @ 2 - 3K. I rigged up a baffle that is inserted in the 2nd exhaust tip for everyday driving, but is easily removed for DE'ing.
I cut a (slightly less than 2 1/2" diameter disk out of stainless steel. Then drilled 2 holes in the exhaust tip, 180 degrees apart, just after the flare that goes into the muffler. I then got 2 screws with flat heads (I can't recall the size, but the heads are over 1/4" dia. I widened the screw flats wide enough for the S.S. disk to fit in. Then, inserted the screws in the tip with the heads on the inside. With the flats parallel to the tube, I slip the disk into both flats, then just rotate 90 degrees to lock the disk in place. Then, 2 nuts on each screw on the outside of the exhaust tip locks the whole thing in place.
I still get a little of airflow thru the second tip, but now the extra backpressure stops the resonance for everyday driving.