ian89C4

Just picked up a Safety Devices bolt in roll cage yesterday!!! It took a drive up to Maryland, but it was a price I could not pass up!!!

So....I plan to get it welded in in stead of bolting it in as I have heard that it will give better structural rigidity to the car. I know I need to pull the carpet out (I plan on doing the RSA carpet install early next year), but what else do I need to do to get the car ready, besides pulling the seats??? (I did a search but really couldn't find any install stuff)

I plan on having C&C Eurosports (no affiliations) in Greensboro NC do the install and the welding. I had them make up a solid seat bracket for me a while back and they did a great job.

Cheers.

J richard

Not to put a damper on your fun, but you need to take a look at the rules for the groups you are going to run with to make sure you're in spec. The safety devices cages don't meet NASA or PCA rules out of the box, you will need to add a diagonal in the hoop and a extra drivers side bar. I would just ditch the door bars and have x bars made, and have the diagonal welded in the hoop before it's put in. Unfortunately the mods to weld in the joints are pretty extensive. Talk it over with your shop before they go too far.

race911

I second that. I ran a Safety Devices in RSA #1, but that was back in '01-'03. Things have changed. Most importantly, if you're going wheel to wheel, why are you going to dick around with safety equipment. (Disclosure: I was in a rollover in a student's car a month ago at low speed, all stock BMW safety equipment worked. But I'm a bit more harsh lately in my comments about where we should NOT skimp.)

In any case, I've run 964 coupes from nearly 100% stock, to fully prepped wheel to wheel. No bar, roll bar, Autopower cage, Safety Devices cage, custom cage. Until you get to the welded-in real cage, I don't think there's that much of a rigidity difference. At least not enough that any of us at our skill level can tell.

ian89C4

Good call. I was going off of the '09 PCA rule book and I now see the additions they made for '11. I will talk to my guy and we will see what we can do. Even if I have to scrap the Safety Devices cage it was a must grab for the price.

Thanks for the sanity check guys!!

Nader Fotouhi

The pictures are not clear, but unlike the SD cage for a 944, it looks like the diagnol is within the rear main hoop. You do not need to scrap. You just have the shop to weld a 10 hauge tube of appropriate thickness to the rear main after removing the bar that is there.

AFA your idea to weld the cage in for more rigidity, you need to bolt plates for the installation of the legs, but I do not think that welding makes much difference in rigidity based on my experience of having had a SD cage. Rigidity requires having to add a lot of bracing. Ultimate rigidity requires going through the fire wall for.

GL with installation. I think SD is the best mass produced cage out there.

chakka

Just trying to make sure I understand. I have the middle/backhalf welded in my RSA from the PO. I was looking at possibly club racing. I will need to buy the front half. Are their options as to which front half you can buy since it is primarily bolted to the existing part(back-half)? I would want to make sure it meets PCA/NASA rules. I will call safety devices today to see.

James Achard

NASA has some goofy rule that the main hoop must only contain 4 bends which automatically disqualifies all Porsche factory built cages in Cup Cars. I've never raced with them but does anyone have any experience if they in fact enforce this rule?

James

chakka

I found out the SD bar from (Stable Energy) is starting to reconfigure their bar to conform with having 2 bars for the doors, but not all applications are available yet. The option is to have buy the hardware from Stable(mounting bracket(4 @ $25) and 2 bars to match what is in my car($230 pr.) and have them installed from front to back above the existing door bar.