10ET40 Photos
11-25-2010, 09:30 AM
#16
Pro
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Long Island N.Y
Posts: 536
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
sml, judging by your pictures it appears your rear camber is straight up and down(no negative camber). I think once you get a proper alignment things will change frt/rear. I'd wait before making any assessments.
Anthony, by the way, your car looks great with those graphics!
Dan
Anthony, by the way, your car looks great with those graphics!
Dan
11-25-2010, 05:35 PM
#18
they are coming 
... but for the rears, I wasn't sure if 8 to 10mm clearance was sufficient with 650lbs springs, so they are off at present.
next week ...
a) ride height adjustment (& maybe corner balance) with old wheels, then next stop ..
b) wheel alignment with old wheels, next stop ...
c) fender adjustment with new wheels.
d) then photos
... but for the rears, I wasn't sure if 8 to 10mm clearance was sufficient with 650lbs springs, so they are off at present.next week ...
a) ride height adjustment (& maybe corner balance) with old wheels, then next stop ..
b) wheel alignment with old wheels, next stop ...
c) fender adjustment with new wheels.
d) then photos
11-25-2010, 11:30 PM
#19
Instructor
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Beautiful Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 244
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Size of rims won't matter too much (provided reasonable offsets and all.) What does matter is the weight. If you are going 18" fine, just get light rims. FWIW, as for camber, the BEST thing to do with any 964, road or track is to chuck the factory alignment out. Standard settings give way too much understeer and poor turn in and make the car feel lethargic. A bit of neg camber does wonders.
That said, I agree totally that an extra 0.5 in rimsize and an extra 8mm of rubber will have a very negligable advantage but the downsides can be a bitch. Hence why I run a 255 rear and 225 front now as there were many cases where a soft track set up was required and 235 front/265 rear often scraped but no performance gain over the very slightly smaller rubber.
That said, I agree totally that an extra 0.5 in rimsize and an extra 8mm of rubber will have a very negligable advantage but the downsides can be a bitch. Hence why I run a 255 rear and 225 front now as there were many cases where a soft track set up was required and 235 front/265 rear often scraped but no performance gain over the very slightly smaller rubber.
11-26-2010, 10:00 AM
#20
Rennlist Member
Is the ET41 with or without the spacer? Are you using 10ET34? That should be pushed out further than my example. I can recall seeing over 10 references that about 10ET44 or 10ET43 is correct for the rear, so my 10ET40 are positioned exactly where I expected.
If you think you are using 10ET34, I think your base measurement of ET41 is incorrect. Perhaps it is ET51 with the 7mm spacer?
If you mean it is 10ET48 with a 7mm spacer to give 10ET41, then perhaps you have 255 tyres or just a brand of tyre with a more rounded shoulder?
If you think you are using 10ET34, I think your base measurement of ET41 is incorrect. Perhaps it is ET51 with the 7mm spacer?
If you mean it is 10ET48 with a 7mm spacer to give 10ET41, then perhaps you have 255 tyres or just a brand of tyre with a more rounded shoulder?
Size of rims won't matter too much (provided reasonable offsets and all.) What does matter is the weight. If you are going 18" fine, just get light rims. FWIW, as for camber, the BEST thing to do with any 964, road or track is to chuck the factory alignment out. Standard settings give way too much understeer and poor turn in and make the car feel lethargic. A bit of neg camber does wonders.
That said, I agree totally that an extra 0.5 in rimsize and an extra 8mm of rubber will have a very negligable advantage but the downsides can be a bitch. Hence why I run a 255 rear and 225 front now as there were many cases where a soft track set up was required and 235 front/265 rear often scraped but no performance gain over the very slightly smaller rubber.
That said, I agree totally that an extra 0.5 in rimsize and an extra 8mm of rubber will have a very negligable advantage but the downsides can be a bitch. Hence why I run a 255 rear and 225 front now as there were many cases where a soft track set up was required and 235 front/265 rear often scraped but no performance gain over the very slightly smaller rubber.
11-26-2010, 12:56 PM
#21
Former Vendor
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 219
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You must have older Fikse wheels. For our rim halves we use 6000 series aluminum that is heat treated to T6. This material is quite tough and is very suitable for street use.
though they're not as aggressive in fitment as the wheels shown here
11-29-2010, 10:48 AM
#23
Rennlist Member
I have the factory speedlines on my turbo and with a barrel considerably thicker and far heavier wheel than your product I have bent them. 18" wheels for street use are IMO not a great choice for these cars. It is not the wheel as much as it is the tire profile and stiffer sidewall that I find less suitable for street use. With less cushion and give of the tire it is far easier to bend wheel than with a 17" If you are fortunate enough to have well paved roads it is one thing but living in NJ is always a crap shoot.
For the track the 2 sets of 18" fikse's are perfect. For street I would stick with 17's fikse or whatever brand you choose..
11-29-2010, 03:46 PM
#24
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Helotes, TX
Posts: 1,307
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Aww George, you're just being cranky. Some of us like wheels that are too big for the car. 
(I just posted a similar response to a thread here the other day where I told the guy his wheels were too d@mn big. These aren't quite as bad.)
Where will it all end?
(I just posted a similar response to a thread here the other day where I told the guy his wheels were too d@mn big. These aren't quite as bad.)Where will it all end?
11-30-2010, 03:01 AM
#25
That said, I still think that the tire sizes are *almost* never the factor limiting our performance, unless Derek Bell posts here...
That and price, fitment issues, fragility, car modifications needed, confort and, well, looks (to me the factory wheels are what looks best on these cars) are determining factors.
I'd feel silly after such a big outlay, to stil have my butt handed to me by a competent driver on (gasp!) 6&8X16 D90s
11-30-2010, 05:58 PM
#26
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Reston, VA
Posts: 1,339
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
my street wheels have been 18x10et47 with 265's for about 4 years/35k miles. No rubbing anywhere with H&R's supercup coilover kit.
Remember, different people have different uses in mind for their 964's. Your idea of a ****ty ride may be someone else's idea of how a firm sports car should ride (my car is a dream on the street, to me at least). And with ps2's in 265/235 sizes I've had no problem with hydroplaning. As to your other concerns, I've never had a bent rim in 30k+ of street driving - you just gotta incorporate a little common sense in your daily drive
OP, what kind of wheels are those? Look like OZ's?
OP, what kind of wheels are those? Look like OZ's?
12-06-2010, 04:50 AM
#29
Now the camber is -2 degrees.
As I watched the wheel alignment do the adjustment, it made a difference of about 5 to 8mm at the top corner of the wheel.
12-06-2010, 04:51 AM
#30
BTW ...
at the above settings ...
clearance to suspension arm is about 10mm
clearance to inside body panel near engine is about 10mm
Hope this helps someone in making their wheel decision!
at the above settings ...
clearance to suspension arm is about 10mm
clearance to inside body panel near engine is about 10mm
Hope this helps someone in making their wheel decision!