My first ever 911 Engine drop. Pics/Questions inside.
 

Hey guys,

So I'm a long time BMW hobbyist and have done about 10 or 15 Bimmer engines but here is my first Porsche Engine experience. I couldn't put it off anymore. My 1992 C2 was having trouble going in and out of gears and I suspected the clutch or clutch actuation mechanisms to be the culprit....so this weekend I dropped the engine/tranny assembly.

I managed to drop it with a couple if floor jacks and one motorcycle jack but it was not an easy balancing act. I was hoping not to have to buy the expensive engine jack adapter but I'm very tempted to buy it now for the upcoming re-install. Also now that I have the engine on the floor safely, I'm a bit baffled on how to lift it since there are no obvious lift points on the upper section of the engine assembly....:confused: HELP!!

One of the first things I noticed after I had it dropped is that my motor mounts appear to have been bad which is probably what was causing the shifting issues. So my problems could have been solved with a simple motor mount swap but its not so bad since it is a good learning opportunity (haha keep telling myself this) as well as I will have a chance to deal with any "while I'm there" issues.

I'm posting this thread so get some pointers from those of you who have been there before, thanks for reading and please chime in if you have any answers for me as my questions come along! Thanks!

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My first question might be How do I lift the engine off the floor? I don''t like it resting on the heat exchangers. With some very careful procedures I managed to get it where it is without damaging anything.

How high are you trying to lift the engine? I kept my engine on an ATV jack. I built a 24" x 24" plywood platform that sat between an ATV jack and the engine. It enabled me to wheel the engine around the garage as needed.

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3 friends? But seriously, you can lift the engine with a cable or chain attached to the motor mount holes at the back and run down and under the flywheel at the front of the motor. Use a Jack to lift the motor into place.

As for tips, here are a few:

I think you're right about the motor mounts being the problem . However, be sure to check the bushings in the transmission case and the needle bearings at the ends of the release bearing shaft. If they are worn, you can replace them with the original style bushings and bearings, or you can buy a special assembly like the one sold by Zim's in Ft. Worth.

As for raising the engine back into the car, be sure you have the car high enough to push the engine back in under the car with a jack underneath it. It's a balancing act and i know some here have recommended the factory attachment assembly or a homemade version of it. It can be done with just a jack though.

A 2X6 just long enough to span across under the heat exchangers, located between the Jack and the motor, helps to make things more stable. Also, lifting the motor in shorter stages, maybe 8"+/- lifts, makes the job much easier and safer. Use blocking under the Jack, block the engine up after each short lift, and reposition the jack with more blocking under it each time. I have a couple of 6X12X3' timbers that work great for this.

Finally, watch out for the heater ducts, if they are still attached, and the drive shafts as you go up with the motor. They can get crunched and hang up on the trans. Make all the above-engine connections while the motor is still about 3" from being fully raised.

Good luck, stay safe and have fun.

There are a million and one things that you could do while you were in there, but with just a quick look at your pictures, I would say get all the tin powder coated, it will increase the longevity of the panels and they look great.

I had a friend help me lift the engine up onto an engine stand with the special Porsche motor attachment on it. He and I are also pretty young and I had taken of the flywheel and the intake manifold so it was remarkably lighter.

Usually the oil level sender needs a new o-ring, that is also a place you can start.

Good luck!!!!

:corn:

Hey guys, thanks for the tips and words! I decided to take the remainder of the weekend off after getting the engine out. I thought at first this might be job in which I would have it out one weekend and back in the next but that's not going to happen!

I'm going to take my time and do everything I can while its out. Including powedercoating the tray.

Can someone tell me if the rear engine brackets seem bent?:

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I've done that engine mount replacement -and that passenger-side carrier end looks bent.
Driver's side looks a tad tweaked, as well. (But what do I know?)

I've heard of folks talk of simply bending them back into shape and all being good. :icon107:
Perhaps put $75 more toward this (plus welding charges) and budget in a carrier gusset?

Some engine-out stuff includes:

• valve adjust
• spark replace
• distributor cap/rotor replace
• power steering pump seal replace
• oil pressure gauge cap's o-ring replacement
• starter replacement(? ok- a bit overkill, but it kain't hoight.)
• belt change
• clutch slave+hose replace
• how's that clutch looking?
• injector refurb ($120, for all six!)

Yes they are bent, one side of mine was the same way. I had them bent back straight and then reinforced by a local metal shop.
I built a wood platform that sat on top of my atv jack. If you have a wood support that the engine case will sit on all the way to the front of the engine casing it will be very stable and not fall forward with the weight of the transmission hanging. When i get home i will try and send you photos.

Thanks guys I'll get that straightened and re-enforced I wonder if I bent them while dropping engine?

Also where is the best parts source? Online parts diagrams?

Yes, they are bent. It is usually caused by removing the bolts that hold the engine onto the motor mount. Bad design.

Makes perfect sense now, yeah bad design.

If you PM me your e-mail, I can send you the full parts diagram.

For parts, I think that its called sunset imports is what most guys use. Pelican parts is also a great starting point.

Also a reseal on your power steering pump may be a good idea.

http://www.rennbay.com/pump-944-powe...3ddc84371e2e42

I know that its for a 944, buts its the same seals.

When you re-install the engine, put some anti-seize on the long bolts to prevent the galling that bent the mounting bracket.

Been working on degreasing the transmission-very time consuming due to all the nooks and crannies. I'm picking up my yoke from Pelican during lunch tomorrow as well so I should have it up on an engine stand this weekend. I can then Pull exhaust and manifolds off for some cleaning and maintenance and start checking items off my "while I am there list".

Just a random comment about 911 owners of all examples; We consider dropping the engine a DIY. Even us non-track drivers still will drop the engine to do what we need to. I haven't had to pull the power plant yet from my current p-car but I have only had her since November. -D²