ttAmerica RoadsterAWD

So I purchased the Motive Black bleeder (Nice Kit), But after quite abit of bleeding I still have a soft pedal and my brake warning system goes off to let me know (yeah, thanks, Duh..)

Question: If all I did was to open the peripheral brake circuit when I replaced the front with Big Reds, Did I also introduce air into the black bomb circuit?

I will bleed the black bomb too, but I want to make sure they are not connected and want to solve this problem first before I introduce more confounding factors.


Thanks.

Wachuko

You still have air in the system. And remember that you have two bleeding screws in each caliper. My suggestion is to try again bleeding the system.

Wachuko

How are you bleeding? Are you putting the brake fluid in the Motive tank? That is the best way to do it. I know some folks don't do that to avoid getting the tank dirty, but I rather play it safe and clean up a little bit more afterwards than risking introducing air because the canister goes empty...

ttAmerica RoadsterAWD

Thanks, Jaime. Yup, total of 8 nipples bled (all 8 are top installed (saw a thread where a guy placed the right side caliper on the left side and vice-versa so that nipples were down) ). So, is the peripheral brake circuit tied directly to the accumulator (black bomb) and ABS?

Anybody know?

Oh, Squirrel! Jaime, did you ever get your wheel locking problem fixed?

ttAmerica RoadsterAWD

Oh, yeah. Motive is 3/4 full plus the fluid in the reservoir....

Wachuko

Sorry don't know the answer to the second question....

But just bare with me... I think that the problem is that you still have air in the system.

Are you letting enough brake fluid come out to let any air in the system out? Start with the rear passenger caliper, then driver rear caliper, then front passenger caliper and then front driver caliper... don't be shy on letting fluid come out... and keep the pressure on the motive (and don't forget to clamp the drain hose before you do all this, but I think you got that cover).

On the brake locking, yeah... doing the engine mounts and carrier reinforcement... so another thing to distract me from troubleshooting that...

ttAmerica RoadsterAWD

Yeah, exactly how I did it... rr,rl, fr, fl. I even did the slave cylinder. Funny thing is my clutch works fine as far as I can tell, its just the darn brakes (I even took a rubber mallet to all four corners)....

Wachuko

Did you bleed again? Any changes? And put that mallet away! It has no place when working the brakes, lol.

joey bagadonuts

Introducing 1-1/2 - 2 liters is usually necessary (more like a flush) to purge the system of all air. Keep going, you'll get there!

rdean

I recenty replaced rotors and pads, new caliper pistons, ect..
It took 3 liters of brake fluid to purge any residual air. The 1st time I bled the brakes was with only 1 liter resulting with a squishy pedal.

ttAmerica RoadsterAWD

Thanks guys, will do part Deux today

ttAmerica RoadsterAWD

Well, no dice! Anybody know why it won't be a good idea to turn engine on and actively do the brake bleed while an assistant pushes the brake pedal? Somehow it feels like it needs higher pressures to properly bleed the system.

What's the taboo in turning on the engine and doing it the old fashion way??

jevvy964

Have your calipers been reconditioned with new seals?

Could you actually have all the air out but the new seals are too grabby and pulling the pistons back too much - this feels very much like air in the system.

Try putting some smaller old pads(or something similar) into the calipers and working the pistons out until you can only just get the new pads in.

newsboy

Are you making sure that the fluid level in the reservoir is not falling to low?

jimq

Thats the only way I could get all of it out of my system last time. I had let air in the system when I drained to much old fluid out of the reservoir. Its not the best way to do it but as a last resort after 2 cans of ATE fluid with no brakes still I did it. I havent had any problems since.