changed air fliter - found loose bolts
05-12-2010, 04:45 PM
#16
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
In the short term, yes, put loctite on the bolts you have. Long term, get some studs and replace the bolts, using loctite and then attach the air filter assembly to the studs with self-locking nuts.
Sorry for being confusing on the 6mm vs 10mm. The bolts you have have a 6mm thread and 10mm heads. If you buy studs, they will be called M6 studs which are 6mm x 18mm long. The nuts will be M10 nuts which are use a 10mm socket.
Sorry for being confusing on the 6mm vs 10mm. The bolts you have have a 6mm thread and 10mm heads. If you buy studs, they will be called M6 studs which are 6mm x 18mm long. The nuts will be M10 nuts which are use a 10mm socket.
-will loctite the bolts I have (that way I can checkout the snap method Lonnie mentioned).
-will order new new M6 studs and self-locking nuts.
-will RL search for how to remove the air filter assembly...hum, I think I have a leaky oil pressure sender...I'm getting closer to you Mr. O-Sender!
Regarding the 6 vs 10mm AND bolt vs stud issue...thanks for sticking in there with me. You guys spotted the problem right away. I had to catch up!
05-12-2010, 05:55 PM
#17
IHI KING!
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The part number for the studs is 999-062-003-02 but if you don't want to pay the factory prices, you could substitute regular studs if you want to. I would look for 6mm x 20mm studs at your local hardware store. The thread pitch is 1.00mm
05-12-2010, 06:53 PM
#18
Nordschleife Master
Any metal will do. The design has 4 bolts because of the strength limits of the plastic box, not the loading on the bolt/stud/whatever.
The only concern would be eventual surface corrosion. Pick anything right-sized you can find at Lowes/Home Depot/AutoZone made of any zinc-coated metal, or stainless.
Actually, I kinda dig the bolt head look your airbox is sporting, there.
Kinda of counter-culture, but without the neck tattoos.
05-12-2010, 08:06 PM
#19
Nordschleife Master
The other reason that you want to swap back to studs and nuts, as recommended by others already, is that it makes it easier to remove the whole of the air box when you want do more DIY, like pulling apart the inlet manifold to clean it out. I already get the feeling that more DIY will be on your list. 
05-13-2010, 10:42 AM
#20
Three Wheelin'
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I wonder if the bolts vs. studs issue is a year model thing, because my car also has the gold finish 6mm bolts. I have only owned my car a few years, so I don't know if they are original, but I think it would be quite a coincidence if two post-factory mechanics replaced the studs with the same type bolts.
Furthermore, I've never had a problem with the bolts backing out without threadlocker having been applied. Maybe you should check to confirmt hat the paper gasket between the air box and the MAF is in place. It might tend to provide the "settleing" on installation that would help keep the bolts taut.
Finally, I think the horn design is more of a hinged design with one side having a square edge tab that is best inserted into its slot first, and the other a bevelled tab that spreads the notch as the horn is swung into place. ...........Too much detail?
Furthermore, I've never had a problem with the bolts backing out without threadlocker having been applied. Maybe you should check to confirmt hat the paper gasket between the air box and the MAF is in place. It might tend to provide the "settleing" on installation that would help keep the bolts taut.
Finally, I think the horn design is more of a hinged design with one side having a square edge tab that is best inserted into its slot first, and the other a bevelled tab that spreads the notch as the horn is swung into place. ...........Too much detail?
