Shifter change help
 

All,

History: I have had the B&M short shifter in my mostly track C2 and it has always been notchy, pretty heavy shift, and some inconsistency of ease of shift. I now have the time and the parts and am planning on switching back to the stock shifter and fork. I didn't install the B&M, so am poking around trying to figure it out and wanted to confirm a few things before moving forward.

Plan:
1. Due to age, I'm replacing the guide tube and angular joint to be sure everything is as new as possible and the little bit of play in the guide tube is fixed (parts 15 & 16 from the picture with the plastic ball joints) - this should make the shift smooth and consistent
2. Looks like I need to take apart the guide piece (parts 2 & 3) and turn it upside down from it's current location (the passthrough of the shift lever is on the top with the B&M and needs to be on the bottom for stock) **Can this be done by simply turning the guide on the tube (part 27), do I need to remove the 4 screws separate and re-connect, or will it require something else

PET Picture:
http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/pet_pic.jpg

Stock shifter & fork:
http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/stockshifterweb.jpg

B&M shifter & fork installed:
http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/bminstalledweb.jpg

Thanks everyone - I like to have my DIYs well planned out before I start and cause more problems.

-Skip

are you interested in selling the shifter once its out? what didn't you like about it.

Nice project.

- Yes, it looks like 27 can be rotated 180 back to its original position.

- While you're in there, you should consider replacing 6 7, 8 and 9. #6 is a "bearing," gets quite a work out and eventually fails.

- You may want to replace the plastic ball joint, 16, with a spherical rod end. Not sure of the exact size (mine was installed by PO) but it promises a bit more durability than the original 356 design. The ball in 24 will need to be replaced with a bolt, as well:
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/Images/L/3060.JPG

Joey - I'm enjoying learning more about the 964 and getting into some new projects. I've already ordered # 6 and 7, but 8 & 9 are only available in Germany and will take a while to arrive, so was going to check the condition of mine to see if I want to wait that amount of time. I've also already ordered 16 and 15, so will have brand new ball joints.

911porschefan - not sure if I'll sell the B&M or not - we'll have to see how it feels once I've made the adjustments.

-Skip

I hear you, Skip. I did a ton of "maintenance" on my car over the winter and some of the simple swaps turned into opportunities to replace worn parts, e.g. replacing the chain housing gaskets, turned into installing an a/c delete console, welding in the Rennline engine bracket brace, swapping both belts and replacing the front crankshaft seal. It's like having a new car.

Sounds like you're putting together a nice track weapon, yourself. ;)

Just fyi, you don't need to buy new parts 15 and 16... the only wear parts of those parts is the plastic insert, which you can buy separately for just a few dollars.

Joey - lets just say, it isn't the car that is the problem, it is purely the nut behind the wheel.

Richard - I wish I had heard that earlier - guess I missed that in all the posts on Rennlist...Great Info for others.

-Skip

Don't feel badly; I didn't discover that either until I had bought all new parts 15 and 16.