To Bleed or not to Bleed
02-16-2010, 08:27 AM
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
To Bleed or not to Bleed
Had an oversight with brake fluid levels. To cut a long story short I did a reasonable journey with the low brake fluid warning light on for most of it. I thought this just meant that the ABS wouldn't function but the plot thickened.
When I got back in the car afterwards I found it very difficult to get into gear which progressively got worse the more I drove it. It felt as if the clutch was not disengaging properly as the car would creep with the clutch pedal depressed the whole way. Forget putting it into reverse - although I could engage reverse with the engine off. If I started the engine, the car would creep in reverse obviously.
I checked under the car and noticed brake fluid on the flexible line to the clutch slave so I've just replaced the slave and flexible hose. Bleeding the lines using the power bleeder resulted in a lot of air spit, but then fluid so I thought all was well.
However, the symptoms remain, although it's a bit easier to engage forward gears now and I can now get it into reverse with a push.
It seems I haven't bled the system properly but I'm open to other suggestions. I didn't really let much fluid drain from the bleed nipple on the slave, just closed it when I saw fluid again. Is it possible air has been drawn into the top of the system when I ran low brake fluid levels?
When I got back in the car afterwards I found it very difficult to get into gear which progressively got worse the more I drove it. It felt as if the clutch was not disengaging properly as the car would creep with the clutch pedal depressed the whole way. Forget putting it into reverse - although I could engage reverse with the engine off. If I started the engine, the car would creep in reverse obviously.
I checked under the car and noticed brake fluid on the flexible line to the clutch slave so I've just replaced the slave and flexible hose. Bleeding the lines using the power bleeder resulted in a lot of air spit, but then fluid so I thought all was well.
However, the symptoms remain, although it's a bit easier to engage forward gears now and I can now get it into reverse with a push.
It seems I haven't bled the system properly but I'm open to other suggestions. I didn't really let much fluid drain from the bleed nipple on the slave, just closed it when I saw fluid again. Is it possible air has been drawn into the top of the system when I ran low brake fluid levels?
02-16-2010, 08:47 AM
#2
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It is possible. Do you have a C2 or a C4, that could make a big difference as there are the differential locks that you need to bleed, as well as all four calipers. I would also think that if the fluid level was really low that air could have gotten in else where. A good bleed of the entire system would not hurt. There could be an air bubble hiding somewhere that is compressing and not allowing the slave cylinder to fully engage the through-out arm.
Good luck.
Good luck.
02-16-2010, 09:41 AM
#4
Here's some bleeding info which may be helpful . . . and, yes, you do need to bleed fluid at the nipple (see below); not just wait for the air to stop and a bit of fluid to show.
Code:
C4 brake bleed - easier than I thought... + bleed hydraulics + add motiv pneumatic disconnect (becomes swivel, too) to reservoir line + pinch off overflow line! + (8) Brakes - (4) brakes, (2) nipples each = (8) bleeds + (1) Clutch - (1) slave cylinder left rear wheel area + (1) Accumulator - (1) in front trunk + bleed via onboard hydraulic pump + (2) AWD - (1) transverse lock and (1) longitudinal lock; via Hammer + (12) total bleeds - how much to bleed when changing fluid The workshop manual says to bleed 250cc of fluid at each wheel, and 100cc of fluid at the clutch to replace the fluid (if you have a C4 add 250-300cc for the lateral differential lock, 200cc from the longitudinal lock, then a couple of complete drains of the accumulator and solenoid block - a lot of fluid!). 1000cc - 250cc at each wheel 100cc - clutch 300cc - lateral diff lock 200cc - longitudinal diff lock ?cc - couple of complete drains of accumulator and solendoid block ------ 1600cc+ ~2 cans
02-16-2010, 10:55 PM
#6
Intermediate
Thread Starter
I got into the car this morning to move it into the garage. Pumped the clutch pedal a couple of times and boom - went straight to the floor. Pulled it back up with my toe and tried again but the same.
Delved into the depths of the pedal box and found the roll pin from the clutch pedal mysteriously disintegrated leaving the pedal free to move without engaging the master.
One new roll pin, a fresh bleed of the system (thanks for the info above) and the pedal is better than ever. Biting point is now 1/3 from the bottom and the action is nice and smooth.
Unfortunately I now keep stalling the car because of the change in biting point.
Delved into the depths of the pedal box and found the roll pin from the clutch pedal mysteriously disintegrated leaving the pedal free to move without engaging the master.
One new roll pin, a fresh bleed of the system (thanks for the info above) and the pedal is better than ever. Biting point is now 1/3 from the bottom and the action is nice and smooth.
Unfortunately I now keep stalling the car because of the change in biting point.
