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Oil Line, Oil Filter Console to Engine - replacement question

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Old 06-22-2017, 08:48 PM
  #31  
ToniWonKanobi
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Originally Posted by John McM
I've learned never to be 100% certain of anything but if it's the line circled here I took it off after I took off the heat exchanger and the rebuild book installs it before the exchanger is refitted.
Yup. That's it. Dang lol

Originally Posted by John McM
Be aware that the bolts holding the left and right manifold may be rusted together as well. In that case you may have to take it off as an assembly. More potential to break studs.
Probably the safest course, I suppose.

Originally Posted by Rocket Rob
Yes. It can be done with the engine in the car. I've done it. Take your time loosening the cylinder head flanges and you should be fine.
Will do

***

This Stomski Racing kit looks pretty cool. Maybe I should buy it just in case?
Old 06-22-2017, 09:37 PM
  #32  
Super90
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Originally Posted by Rocket Rob
Yes. It can be done with the engine in the car. I've done it. Take your time loosening the cylinder head flanges and you should be fine.
Yes it can be done and has been done...

The "hot wrench" is the magic. Penetrating oil only works so much. Get those fasteners cherry red with the torch and they come right off...
Old 06-23-2017, 12:17 AM
  #33  
rkwfxd
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Originally Posted by John McM
This job has the potential to get away on you. The nuts and studs are easy to buy, extracting a broken stud is less easy. I'd get a shop to do this job if the engine is in the car. I was nervous with mine on an engine stand, let alone working under the car.
OK this statement here by John McM has just put the fear of God into me as far and doing this repair myself.

I don't need to do this repair right now and I do not need to remove my exhaust. I was just reading for information only and thinking, "I have all those tools, I have worked on rusty stuff before, little MAP gas and I'm good."

Having seen the level of stuff John does, if he is recommending a shop for this job I know what I'll do when the time comes.

Good luck.
Old 06-23-2017, 09:24 AM
  #34  
Super90
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As mentioned by several others on this thread, map gas alone is not hot enough. You need a little map/oxygen torch or an acetylene torch. I would not do the job without the proper torch. That's when people don't have it hot enough, or didn't use a torch at all, and they break a stud.

At my local air-cooled shop, I don't think they even bother with penetrating oil. They just go straight to the torch. With it, no problems...

I had three fasteners that were not coming off with just penetrating oil. Heat till cherry red, and straight off with the wrench...
Old 06-23-2017, 04:09 PM
  #35  
John McM
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Originally Posted by Super90
As mentioned by several others on this thread, map gas alone is not hot enough. You need a little map/oxygen torch or an acetylene torch. I would not do the job without the proper torch. That's when people don't have it hot enough, or didn't use a torch at all, and they break a stud. At my local air-cooled shop, I don't think they even bother with penetrating oil. They just go straight to the torch. With it, no problems... I had three fasteners that were not coming off with just penetrating oil. Heat till cherry red, and straight off with the wrench...
I was lucky. I only had Map gas but managed to get all twelve nuts off, albeit two took the entire stud with them. Mind you my engine had been recently rebuilt so i wasn't faced with fasteners in there for 27 years. I love DIY but sometimes I need to temper my buying habit. The map/oxy and/or acetylene options would have been expensive so I will choose the shop option for the other car, just for the fasteners.



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