mada1

OK, Lets say you were dropping the engine to put in a new clutch and flywheel; Add to the ultimate "while I'm in there" list starting with:

Clutch and Flywheel and fork
Slave and hose
Valve covers... check, replace seals
valve adjustment
new spark plugs, plug wires
power steering pump belt
engine mounts
oil lines (in rear wheel well)
change the RMS
all seals (which ones)
secondary distributor drive belt
High tension leads

Feel free to modify the current list or add specific parts, manufacturers etc.
I put the above list together with some search help....don't know what a high tension lead is?

springer3

High tension is old fashioned for "high voltage", and of course means the spark plug wires. Plug wires can be done engine-in. The big deal is getting the intake system out of the way.

Which seals? They are cheap, so all of them! For sure get the two O-rings in the PS pump housing - they are much easier with the engine out. Both ends of the crankshaft have seals that are much easier with the engine out. I think all the rest can be done with the engine in. The oil pressure sender is a notorious leaker, so be sure to get it. Garrett's DIY helped me a lot with mine.

What else? Blow out the cooling fins - they probably have a build-up of chaff, and you will run cooler if you get the fins cleaned up. If you see debris there, you probably also have it in the AC condensor and the oil cooler.

Rocket Rob

You may want to change the power steering reservoir supply hose and also the fuel filter and alternator, AC and cooling fan belts. While the engine is out, you should also inspect the rear suspension CV boots, shocks, etc.

In my case, some of my engine tin was looking shabby. I had to replace a few pieces that were rusted through. I had all of the tin and the cooling fan powder coated.

DarrylH

If your starter motor is getting iffy (mine went 237k km) it's waaay easier to do with the engine dropped.

Remove / repair / replace (your choice) the insulation blanket.

mada1

So far then...

Clutch and Flywheel and fork
Slave and hose
Valve covers check, replace seals
Valve adjustment
New spark plugs, plug wires
Power steering pump belt
Engine mounts
Oil lines (in rear wheel well)
Change the RMS
All seals (which ones)
Secondary distributor drive belt
PS Pump o-rings
Crankshaft seals
Blow out cooling fins
change the power steering reservoir supply hose
fuel filter and alternator
AC and cooling fan belts
inspect the rear suspension CV boots shocks, etc.
Check engine tin
Starter motor
Insulation blanket

Any more?

stevepaa

oil temp and pressure senders and seals
crankcase breather line on top of engine
alternator motor
hot air lines from engine to chassis

mada1

So with those added to the list:

Clutch and Flywheel and fork
Slave and hose
Valve covers check, replace seals
Valve adjustment
New spark plugs, plug wires
Power steering pump belt
Engine mounts
Oil lines (in rear wheel well)
Change the RMS
All seals (which ones)
Secondary distributor drive belt
PS Pump o-rings
Crankshaft seals
Blow out cooling fins
Change the power steering reservoir supply hose
Fuel filter and alternator
AC and cooling fan belts
Inspect the rear suspension CV boots shocks, etc.
Check engine tin
Starter motor
Insulation blanket
Oil temp and pressure senders and seals
Crankcase breather line on top of engine
Alternator motor
Hot air lines from engine to chassis

Wow.
Any more?

Rocket Rob

I thought of another thing, I would check the clutch fork shaft and bearings. I would also be tempted to replace the clutch slave cylinder and cylinder hose, if they hadn't been replaced in a long time.

mada1

10-4.

Clutch, flywheel and fork
Check the clutch fork shaft and bearings
Clutch slave cylinder and cylinder hose
Valve covers check, replace seals
Valve adjustment
New spark plugs, plug wires
Power steering pump belt
Engine mounts
Oil lines (in rear wheel well)
Change the RMS
All seals
Secondary distributor drive belt
Power steering pump o-rings
Change the power steering reservoir supply hose
Crankshaft seals
Blow out the cooling fins
Fuel filter and alternator
AC and cooling fan belts
Inspect the rear suspension CV boots shocks, etc.
Check engine tin
Starter motor
Insulation blanket
Oil temp and pressure senders and seals
Crankcase breather line on top of engine
Alternator motor
Hot air lines from engine to chassis

All good?

mada1

How about shift linkage, short shifter etc. Is this the time to do it?

Marc Shaw

Clean/replace injectors

Marc

The Stig

I smell a front page "Sticky" or at least hit the "subscribe" button. Thanks for starting this.

Cliff

mada1

My pleasure Cliff.

Clutch, flywheel and fork
Check the clutch fork shaft and bearings
Clutch slave cylinder and cylinder hose
Valve covers check, replace seals
Valve adjustment
New spark plugs, plug wires
Power steering pump belt
Engine mounts
Oil lines (in rear wheel well)
Change the RMS
All seals
Secondary distributor drive belt
Power steering pump o-rings
Change the power steering reservoir supply hose
Crankshaft seals
Blow out the cooling fins
Fuel filter and alternator
AC and cooling fan belts
Inspect the rear suspension CV boots shocks, etc.
Check engine tin
Starter motor
Insulation blanket
Oil temp and pressure senders and seals
Crankcase breather line on top of engine
Alternator motor
Hot air lines from engine to chassis
Clean/replace injectors

Jon Hansen

bead blast cooling fan
R & R ISV and clean well.
replace tranmission input shaft seal
change tranny fluid
clean and degrease engine and engine compartment, detail as necessary
clearance AC bracket so it can come off without removing front vibration dampener next time around
sandblast and satin black powdercoat all engine tin, rear motor mount, and muffler brackets
R & R intake manifolds and clean gunk from insides
new lock nuts on exhaust manifolds and valve covers, etc.

christallon

Great Thread!!!

Any other suspension/brake related work while the axles are hanging around?