Ritter v4.0

Particularly those tracking their cars in higher temp regions.

FWIW- at Petit LeMans last Fall a Mobil rep responded to a question about what oil to run in our older air/oil-cooled cars. The answer was an unequivocal; Mobil 1 V-Twin . (Oddly, not Brad Penn)

So who's running it and whats your experience?

axl911

I live in Texas so it is hot here. It is my only car so it sees daily driving including crawling Dallas traffic jams.

I ran it for about a year, but it was expensive at nearly $12 a quart. Switched to Brad Penn and did not notice any difference.

Regardless of oil, I closely monitor my oil temperature and put in a manual fan switch.

Ritter v4.0

Its that much? I'd run Motul at price and be done. I may yet.

jneteler

Yeah, I run Mobil 1 20-50. Don't know if it has the V Twin designation though.

I rather have the higher viscosity since it is an older car and I don't have to worry about it getting below 25C ever.

No problems.

JNeteler

mpeters951

With Brad Penn available locally, and with a good deal of respect for all that LN Engineering has written in support of its' use in air-cooled Porsche's, why the bloody hell would I ever want to support a sponsor of NASCAR ?

Tom W

Jerry Woods has recommended I run Swepco 306 15/40 or 20/50 as it provides higher levels of Zinc and Phosphorus than the current formulation of Mobil 1.

I had rod bearings wear out in 5 hours (instead of a few hundred) that was attributed to the change in Porsche's rod bearings and the change in formulation of Mobil 1 over the years. I no longer use stock rod bearings and now use Swepco 306.

Rennen

I do.

wpriller

I running 20-50 Valvoline VR 1 Racing Oil with the ZDDP. www.valvoline.com

LouZ

I'm using 20-50 Valvoline (dino-oil) with 8 oz. of ZDDP+ added.

dan79brooklyn

I am on my second oil change with Mobil 1 MXT 10-40 which is probably the same formulation as the V-Twin. Oil analysis came back fine after 8500 miles.

bgiere

M1 motorcycle oil is great for our cars...expensive though...at that price ($11ish/quart) there are plenty of other well respected options...Motul,Redline, Total,etc....I'd have no problems running any of them in an air cooled engine. Pick your favorite, run it for 5-10,000 miles and start doing oil analysis.

Ritter v4.0

Funny you should mention this. Ok no so funny.

After a complete 3.8 rebuild (new everything, Carrillo rods, OEM and Smart bearings etc.) I was running Brad Penn 20-50 and less than 1000 miles a spun bearing ruined my day (and motor). Not saying it was the oil- could have been the install or a faulty new bearing. May never know for sure but I'm looking at oil alternatives to M 1 and BP.

Tom W

The bearings Porsche now supplies are not as good as the original. My engine was one of 3 that I am aware of that had bearings go bad in 10 hours or less. I had them replaced with bearings that Jerry Woods had fabricated and when the engine was removed and checked at 100 hours, they were still fine.

I think it's the bearings as much as it might be the oil. Rather than pay for the damage a bad bearing would cause, I now run the recommended Swepco (which is what was used for the 100 hours too).

941MXVET

RedLine, and I can source it locally, well close anyway!

Ritter v4.0

The rebuild is a bummer but at least I have this to forward to (they dropped 7lbs off the crank, drilled and knifed):